Finding Machu Picchu – Day 3 10th April 2019
With our second morning awakening by porters at the early hours we all are weary eyed as true sleep remains difficult however, we are now ‘seasoned’ trekkers and know what is required to keep to schedule and to help out with the timing of breakfast for all concerned. Sleeping bags and mats tightly rolled up and placed on the porter’s mat ready for their packing.
As we are more programmed; we are able to achieve a better packing, cleaning of teeth, stretching exercises and a quick group chat before heading off. We all know we have about 12klms to do today and it appears no-one is feeling too sore so we are confident of doing good times particularly due to more declines generally. This day will be our longest day of trekking. The first 30mins however will be winding back up around the mountain until we can descend again. There is a wonderful opportunity to look back down towards the campsite as the porters are completing their packing up (centre of photo). It won’t be long before they will be passing us again. We all remain puzzled how they can continue to be super human.
After 2hrs (3klms) or so from Warmiwanuscca’s peak of yesterday and approx. 50mins from our camp site at Pacaymayo today we came across an archaeological site of a derelict house .. a fortress possibly; as an outlook for the Incas; located and called Runkuraqay (3,800mtrs, 12,470ft) on the side of the mountain of the same name. Whilst derelict you can still see the great stone construction still intact however with the roof and softer construction now gone it truly has a derelict view. It was a brief visit as time was pressing and there are more significant sites ahead and more “Inca Flats” to conquer.
At least Runkuraqay was the completion of the insane inclines and now we transverse the normal “Inca Flats” of stoned pathways and sheer edge drops winding around mountain sides. The views are breathtaking with the enormous landscapes, water streams, waterfalls, drifting clouds and clean brisk air flows (still less oxygen though).
After some 2.5hrs we come across Sayacmarca (3,580mts, 11,472ft); a fortress with a Sun Temple and a residential building area. Here we find a few Alpacas of different colours. Numerous photo opportunities however even though the Alpacas are calm they will not participate in photo selfies with Scott and Astrid. Very frustrating; but they do get close enough. Bryce was another Alpaca stalker .. we often had to wait for his return. Once, we resigned to the Alpacas ignoring us Scott and I noticed certain stone constructions of holes perfectly smooth, curved and carved into specific stones. Such great skilled work. These holes were used to secure the roof beams by a tie down method of rope vines. Some, I believe were used to allow doors to be rope hinged onto them.
Following on from Sayacmarca we venture onto Phuyupatamarca. This archaeological site is a large stoned fortress and well-engineered with viaduct drainage, large bath complexes that to this day still operate in the rainy season where fresh water is controlled, directed and stored for everyday use and crop producing.
We all pushed forward now to the last leg of the morning with a later lunchtime today and this involves steep declines and more cobblestone pathways making sure every foot step is placed safely. After some hours we find ourselves in a clearing also used as a campsite where we have our last lunch with our porters and some of the crew. Some porters will return to their homes when we reach our campsite for the night. We note, a bulk of the food is now on our table .. so much food to eat. With our stomachs over filled (forced fed) we restart our last leg to our next campsite; but first we must master or “survive” the “Gringo Killer Stairs” which means “white folk killer” and they are exactly that! They form part of the almost 1,000 metre descent with approx. 1000 or so steps of all different dimensions and alignment. Anyone with knee issues will feel their body load plus their backpack and apart from this the whole body gets a real workout including your arms where the walking poles are used differently as they are extended further for steep descents. For me, I felt guilty finding the descents quite easy compared to some of the other trekkers. I offered Sue my walking pole support hand at my wrist (like a handrail) as I kept one step down from her. It was slow but safe and effective. We did this successfully until Ronny offered to assist. No offence, but I think I just got dumped! We all took it in good humour so I quickly added my pace hoping to catchup to Scott & the others which was a far cry from reality. Can’t believe the pace I was achieving.
With the relief of the Gringo Killer stairs behind us we walk a rare section of gentle pathway with our 2nd guide, William. He has helped us out as he comes from another company to fulfil the guide’s ratio to trekkers. He has an amazing personality and fits right in. Now, here’s the thing … William is now on his 7th straight trek day. Tomorrow will be his 8th!! How can anyone do this I asked? He laughs and says “easy”. He advises a close friend of his just completed his 16th straight trek day and now is relaxing at home. After nearly collapsing of shock I said; “he should be in hospital!”
Not much further along the trail we encounter a cave or 2 on the path where they are short in length but also in height and narrow. You feel your head is about to hit the roof. They are so dark we need torches and/ or your phone torch to see. One cave has a hole step inside where you can fall quite easily. Certainly; a surprising location and a relief to get through safely.
After quite some time of cobblestone pathways we can see High Voltage Electrical Towers in the mountainous landscape so we can feel our Campsite #3 at Winay Wayna (2,650mts, 8,692ft) is coming closer … but we have had this feeling before where it seems so close … yet so far away. Our feet continue the journey and our arms can feel the last few days of using walking poles; but we trudge on.
Coming closer to our camp we could hear yelling and see some people stationery on a bend in the path. One of the women said her husband fell down into the ravine below. Her husband was still yelling and frustrated he was trapped so far down with apparently nowhere to get out. He was starting to go into shock. We arrived some 5 minutes after he fell. Rescuers were already getting scrambled from the next Control Point near our camp site. The man’s camera was completely shattered on the rocks. It would be a million to one on how he missed those huge boulders below and after some 30metres falling he had no broken bones or serious injuries. He was standing and continued to be yelling for assistance. His wife was somewhat surprisingly calm.
In such a safe area of the pathway Scott & I believe he was either taking a selfie or being a little careless and lost his footing. With the area becoming a little more crowded and there was absolutely nothing we could contribute to the rescue we pressed onto the campsite. It appears they used a winch method to get him out as there is no way to search and walk him out below in the jungle. It would be many hours until he could be in camp. Scott saw this man the next day and all appeared good within their group. The humour came out the next day with “all husbands stay away from the edge … wives have checked the insurance”. Can’t believe how incredibly lucky he was.
We had to meet at the High Voltage electric tower as a group before we could walk into our camp site and to the archaeological site of Winay Wayna. We kept seeing these towers in the distance but you couldn’t tell which one it was until the path actually crossed into it. There was also a huge sign to look for but it meant nothing to us; Spanish writing. Not long after meeting at the tower for respite Ronny and the guides arrive and walk us down to the archaeological site which is very large and terraces everywhere. Such a complex structure with avenues everywhere and the stonework amazing.
Winay Wayna overlooks the Urubamba River below and is on a steep side of the mountain and a two levelled site with temple buildings on top and then residential ones below all connected by staircases and 15 water baths fed by 19 water springs via water viaducts. Again, more Alpacas and Bryce goes ‘missing’ for quite some time. Scott and Astrid have several more Alpaca photos of course. They are addictive and cute but I concentrate on the Inca ruins where it all remains incomprehensible.
Winding our way through this stoned complex to the numerous lower terraces we all look back upward and whilst waiting for Bryce to appear at the top of the stairs we acknowledge how could the Incas build such enormous stoned buildings and with such precision. Just can’t seem to fathom it.
Ronny begins to take us to our camp site with another 10 mins of Inca Flats … We pass all the other companies’ tents plus Banos (toilets) and then find our tents at the very back of the site. At least we will have quietness from the other campers. It’s a fair walk to the toilets now and we even have to step over the other camper’s tent ropes. Trip on these and you will fall about 2metres below. Definitely not safe and worse at night time. The toilet blocks are now fitted with showers .. if you dare to use them. NO hot water .. mountain chilled water only!! No thanks .. I’ll skip these. Suffice to say, the other trekkers agree as well and we all accept everyone on all levels, even on aromas. Toilets need another good hose out too .. whew…ee!!! We continue to walk as a group into our camp area and are surprised of the greeting provided by the porters and chef with their loud applause. A sign we have almost made the trek completion.
We begin our routine again for washing hands, getting settled and ready for our last Happy Hour and then dinner and sleep. We are now tasked with electing our ‘President’ to conduct and hand over our gathered tip money in 3 lots. One for the porters who will distribute evenly later between them and one solely for the Chef. The other tip fund will be for the guides once we get to the township of Aguas Calientes late tomorrow. Through a democratic process Bryce is elected our President and Eric the Vice President for the Chef Tip Fund. All the porters and the Chef were paraded into our dinner tent and each one spoke and introduced themselves. Ronny was the interpreter. We applauded them individually much to their elated smiles. I remember one porter who was 61 and had been doing the trek for almost a decade. Truly amazing. Both Bryce and Eric provided awesome speeches celebrating the great work and success of the porters and chef. They accepted our tips with great humility. Wished we could have given them more but we only carry so much cash and some of us weren’t advised of a tip requirement and were severely cash limited.
I had to pay my porter directly before dinner as agreed for carrying our sleeping bags and mats. I wanted to pay him and thank him directly but Ronny prevented this. I truly hope Ronny did the right thing and paid him as I agreed but unfortunately, I remain sceptical to this day. My porter left for his home before our dinner so I could not check with him.
With dinner now over it was a real quick good night to all as we must be awake at 3.30am to be first at the Control Point for access and then the rush to the Sun Gate at the right time of sunrise. Passports for inspection again at the Control Point. Tomorrow will be our shortest trek (about 7klms) but by far our very longest day!
Same routine to get to sleep but now we must have our torches and head torches at the ready for the early wake up call. Our tent was the last one in the row and against the guide’s tent; lying in my sleeping bag trying to sleep immediately, … I cannot, for the guides are either snoring or listening to loud videos on their phones. I’m too tired to look for my packed ear plugs .. Oh well … Goodnight .. somehow?
Stay tuned for the blog on the Big Day 4 where we all find the magnificent Machu Picchu!!!
BH Life Travels 