Chile – Santiago, Capital City – Overnight 23rd April 2019
We completed Ecuador’s Cotopaxi – Quilotoa Volcano 2day trek tour the day prior and managed a wonderful sleep in our twin room at the Hump Day Hostel in Quito [kito], (Capital City) Historical Centre (refer to my previous blogs). We had our bags packed for international travel (our backpacks are packed differently for these flights due to scanning, etc) prior to the taking of the hostel’s free brekky downstairs in the communal lounge/ dining. The indigenous staff were very shy at first but so friendly & accommodating within seconds. We were treated so well and loved the omelettes, tea, etc. We obviously missed rush hour as most backpackers had already left or were still asleep.
Hump Day Hostel – Communal Room 
Basilica
We checked out at the required time but was able to place all our backpacks into their Hold Lockers for $1USD each all day in Reception. The staff were so pleasant even after checking out. It was a great place to stay.
I must confess I did not pay too much attention to this last day in Quito as we had a 2.30pm taxi booked for the airport so just expected to walk the streets nearby to fill in the day. My eldest son, Scott, was not motivated either way as we were both coming off the high from the last 2 fantastic days. In reflection I should have organised a half day short trip to the actual equator some 48mins drive, 23klms away to the North where there is a museum, Equator Monument and many other associated landmarks. So disappointed in missing out some areas of Quito.
To fill in time, we had a quick walk up to the super impressive Basilica (pls refer to previous Quito Blog) which was sadly, still closed for Easter, took more photos and headed back in a roundabout way to our hostel. We found a fantastic arcade (closed transport street) with so many eateries and coffee shops and obviously would be the main gathering of office workers in any given work day, much like a miniature Market Place in Sydney. The arcade was quite a surprise in comparison to the other surrounding streets. After a much-loved coffee and service we took in a rather cruisey stroll, fresh air and sunshine, albeit everyone was wearing jumpers and coats, some with scarves and gloves too.
Upon reaching Reception I made the comment of the Equator trip and the response from them was it will rain heavy soon & possible hail too so it would be best not to go. Sure enough, shortly after, they were spot on! It is bewildering to see this weather type on the Equator, so obviously the altitude makes the difference. The temperature plummeted with this storm so all Scott and I could do was to find the comfy seat in the communal room and wait for the taxi that we had already booked.
After a couple of hours of chilling out, we climbed into the taxi for the 42klm journey to the airport in the pouring rain, battled through Customs, Immigration and had our last Ecuadorian coffee. Our flight eventually departed late from our 6.35pm schedule so it will be a very tight stopover at our ‘beloved’ Lima Airport in Peru (sarcasm) before our connection flight to Santiago Chile, arriving there at a wonderful 2.30am (more sarcasm). The best thing is we will be flying with our favourite Avianca Airlines for both flights. The reason for Chile in the itinerary is; it is the main departure point for Australian flights therefore it would be a shame in just seeing the Santiago airport and nothing of Chile or their people.
For most flights in South America, seats are assigned to you when booking. If you wish to choose your seats there is a very strong possibility of a seat preference charge and this could be a minimum of $100USD per seat. Obviously, this is unreasonable to many, including me. Of course, our flight from Lima has seats 12A & 12B assigned to us. They are located immediately before the wing exit doors. Never, ever have these seats, as they don’t recline. This is to enable a clear exit passageway behind in case of an emergency!! We could not recline for some 3 plus hours and the seats in front of us reclined their seats giving us so little space for our trays including the seat TV screen was too close for viewing. Worst flight ever and so uncomfortable therefore, no sleep!
Upon arrival in Chile we are directed towards Customs and Immigration as normal however, we see large Australian flag stickers proudly displayed in a cluster on a column or 2 before Customs. Australia has an agreement with Chile where we currently pay $117USD/ person for visiting Chile as a tourist and lasts for 90 days. It is called a Reciprocity Fee between certain countries. Rip off I call it but it’s a must do to gain entry!! Chile is required to pay a fee too when visiting Australia. Chile Immigration certainly check this is paid before entry and you must ensure you do not lose the stamped ticket or you will be paying other taxes and again on departure. This stamped docket is required for hotel check ins as well and is recorded at times. Surprisingly, Immigration did not wish to inspect our Yellow Fever stamped vaccination booklet presented.
Scott & I stayed within the Chilean airport, having a brekky and coffee until dawn arrived and when the airport became busier at 7am. In the meantime of some 4 hours till dawn, we spent energy trying to work out the pesos currency .. yes, it is awkward when comparing USD & AUD comparisons. Apparently, the theory is pesos divided by 640 = $USD, making our taxi ride to the Crowne Plaza Hotel some 25,000 pesos/ $39USD. Only certain places use $USD so everything is in pesos.
The airport arrangement for getting a taxi is very awkward compared to other airports and after several attempts we are convinced by a fellow who is ultra-polite, far above anyone around. Usually, I would avoid these signs of ‘perceived false humanity’, but in reluctance I am with Scott, so I am more reassured to getting a disguised ‘Uber’ by cash. The airport is some journey away from the city centre, hence the large fee of $39USD by a taxi. Scott is not a bus person and remains unsure with anxiety of where we are going and when we would have to get off even though there is a shuttle service run by two major companies, Centropuerto & Turbus for around 3,500 pesos per person.
I usually trust my common sense & the universe but chose the private vehicle option to hasten the trip to our hotel & to obtain much needed sleep. Our ‘Uber’ driver provides plenty of English conversation which made the journey into the city in peak hour more enjoyable as we see plenty of new development, old buildings and derelict buildings along the way with great commentary. Scott & I note, the numerous religious buildings, universities, churches along the main thoroughfare of Av. Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins dissecting Santiago and what seemed quite a while our driver enters a driveway on the right which forms the carpark of our upmarket Crowne Plaza Hotel set back from the street.
University 
Crowne Plaza
Footnote: The reason for the upmarket accommodation stems from my ‘resort ownership’ of Wyndham Resorts over many years where I’m provided a lot of accommodation points each year where I can use them throughout the world; so I thought this hiking tour would help provide some great relief being in resorts for a while and to use my points before they expire. One of the other reasons was not knowing what physical and mental conditions we would be in after such hectic and strenuous hiking and to also allow relief for my 4th digit toe on my left foot that continues to be in a broken condition since I kicked a low tiled shower hob way back in Vietnam some 12mths ago. Ouch!!! I am so thankful for I believe the best hiking boots in the world, my Salomon 3X Ultra Mid boots. They looked after my feet perfectly. Back to my resort package you might remember I used some of my Wyndham points to recover in Wyndham Guayaquil Ecuador a week ago in a previous blog.
Despite having valets meet us in alighting the car in the carpark our driver continues to assist us to Reception where we meet a very polite gentleman, Norman, who speaks great English. By not having any pesos, our driver now will not accept $USD cash so this brings in some complications of course. Norman, being conscious of this, offers a great lifesaver by organising an IOU with the cash register and placing it on our check out bill (after checking in of course). This negates the tax rule of adding 26% to the bill and also gets the driver paid. The stamped Reciprocity Fee docket is requested for this to happen. Whew!!!
Norman changes our room to the same type so we can immediately get settled and some well-earned sleep now that it is 8.45am (we both received no sleep last night). We hardly unpack and before long Scott is sound asleep, whereas my adrenalin is still active. No real need to unpack as we venture to a nearby seaside resort at Valparaiso tomorrow for 3 nights, a few hours away from Santiago.
While Scott is asleep (I leave him a note), I walk the main street of Av. Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins looking for food places, especially vegetarian ones in readiness for Scott’s emerging metabolism. Walking West, I come across a lot more people crowding the pavements being out from two nearby universities. The food places are predominately carne (meat) places and junk food for the younger people who look quite bulky in physicality. Obviously, junk food is applying its affect over here too. I have a sense Chile is going to be challenging, although a satisfying win with an atm for some pesos was my highlight for the afternoon.
Some main facts on Santiago are;
Founded by Spanish conqueror Pedro Valdivia on 12th February 1541. The city is located in a very large valley base surrounded by snow-capped Andes Mountain range to the East and the Chilean Coastal Range to the West (Pacific Ocean). The population in the 7th most populated city in the Americans is 6.544million from the 2016 census (Los Angeles has 3.971million). Chile appears to have the highest cost of living in Sth America with the most developed infrastructure and a solid middle class so will have to watch my budget here. Elevation is 570m/1,870ft and is in an earthquake zone where in 2010 it suffered an 8.8 magnitude earthquake centred about 325klm to the Sth West causing medium damage to the city.
Crowne Plaza has a Starbucks Coffee adjacent to their foyer so we use this for convenience and then settle later for a vegetarian pizza in a quaint little shop, Pizzeria Bella Italia, just up the road for dinner. What a lazy day and night; virtually achieved nothing however, we will leave Santiago tomorrow knowing we will be back in a week and a half to see its highlights.
Hopefully, with a full night’s sleep to come we will head to the seaside of Valparaiso, some 140klm to the North West.
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BH Life Travels 