Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 4 – Phnom Penh – Cambodia

April 2018 – Staying at the Lumiere Hotel, 228 Samdech Mongkol lem St under my now completed 8day tour itinerary, it was a little above my travel budget even at 4 star (stretching my money as far as possible now due to no further income) so I searched for a good location for future sightseeing, etc and a few accommodation stars less than this upmarket hotel. I’m going to miss the views and the luxury. I found a bonus not far from the hotel called the Billabong Hostel in #158 Oknha Truong Cang St, one with private rooms, pool, bar & in-house food closer to the CBD. Most good accommodation places have tut-tuts congregating immediately outside so it was a very quick commute to this hostel.

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Billabong Hostel had a few rules for some of the 80 or so stayers; No outside food & drink allowed, only their canteen in-house food and drink served from the pool deck area. Their menu for all meals were rather limited, plus it was mandatory for travellers over 40 to stay in private rooms, not the dorms. Missed that by 2 decades .. LOL!!! Pool deck made up for the disassociation though but surprisingly most of the younger travellers stayed in their groups and provided barriers even when good morning, etc were expressed. This hostel is very popular and has a good setup and provided a cosy atmosphere with lounge areas and a good-sized pool deck and chairs. They offered off site laundry and delivery plus anything else you required. An efficient Reception that sorted everything for you. Even a computer and printer in the communal lounge. I was very confident and safe here to help digest and address the travesty of the last few days with the Khmer Rouge consciously on my mind.

Phnom Penh, being a capital city didn’t inspire me too much although the sheer volume of scooters was certainly an eye-opener! I Googled a few websites for things to see and do in Phnom Penh but very little came to provide clear inspiration, so my opinion of a large city didn’t sway and yes, possibly the emotional axe of the previous few days was still operational within my body and mind. I came to the conclusion I would most probably return to Phnom Penh at some point when I would be leaving Cambodia so I would most likely see more of the city then. My mind was more driven on getting to Dale’s (ex-GF) beloved Sihanoukville (backpackers heaven) believing that would be a better place for me knowing of the stories she frequently raved about. Hence, I took a tut-tut the next day after the tour towards the older city ‘centre’ and particularly the railway station to book my ticket to Sihanoukville. I was told the train is far better than a bus. Safer and more relaxing.

Your first tut-tut ride in Phnom Penh is a rush, weaving in any man’s language through the ‘vines’ of scooter mayhem. Fumes are another thing when lined up at the traffic lights .. I am now seeing passengers and riders with all types of masks but they are not in the majority but I now wished I had a mask. Cough!!!! A brief 10minutes and I was dropped off at the Bayon Markets where it is the best spot for a tut-tut operator to get another fare so I was happy with that and it is the main daily focus for many Cambodians. The markets cater for anything you could imagine, such as fish, eels, meat, chicken, pigs, fruit, vegies, clothing, bags, shoes, jewellery and so much more.

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My tut-tut driver pointed to ‘across the road’ to a large white building, very elaborate and somewhat historical, for that is the railway station. I was a little confused for it was ‘across the road’ but a long way down its own road and roundabout (old Buddha Stupa) and some buildings and other structures were neighbours to each end of this white building so where are the train tracks/ trains/ platform? Once I entered the building, I noticed the tracks were running 90° to the building and the station was definitely the end of the line, literally. A train unable to stop would plough through this building. I bought my Sihanoukville ticket from an English-speaking Cambodian young lady in the ticket booth who was so helpful. The train to Sihanoukville operates only 3 trips per week so mine will depart 7am on Sunday; today being Friday 13^th April. The trip will be 7hrs non-stop and only cost $8USD .. so cheap.

Happy now with my ticket I saunted back to the markets and roamed about every aisle looking at everything on show. This place is so busy and very little room to manoeuvre and it was difficult to be polite and give way (as I do), as there was no curtesy provided by anyone. A sense everyone was walking through you in a pending emergency. I found an exit and began walking around a large perimeter of city blocks to take in whatever it brings and still not expecting much. The closest and most surprising building to definitely investigate is the Vattanac Capital, being the supreme high-rise structure in this city area. It won the architectural award in 2012 and then other awards followed. Exclusive areas throughout, such as a hotel, commercial offices, shops (Jimmy Choo – shoes), restaurants and bars placed at the top level and viewing platform. There was limited access today with some shops being fitted out and close to their holiday week.

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There are quite a few of new structures standing out in this area so my walking became a marathon. Another city block and I came across the famous Raffles Hotel and just its street appearance seemed well above my budget and offered certainly the high-end market. Not far from this awesome hotel was the Embassy of the United States (looked like almost an entire city block actually). It was so impressive from the street view looking through the security gates and darkened glass. I dare not take a photo .. stay chilled Brian, I’m sure they are looking at you. Lots of security guards and all types of typical black vehicles you see on tv. It certainly portrayed power and professionalism.

With my larger perimeter walk I came across Wat Phnom again from the last tour day. It is a Buddhist temple (built 1372 & 27m high) which is located on the only Phnom Penh hill surrounded by major city roads like a huge roundabout. Today, their Easter & New Year Festival is in full swing and it is so crowded and very little space to walk. The cheering sounds of so many people plus the loudspeakers is insane in volume. So many families enjoying all the events and picnics. Everything seems so random and I’m sure there will be lots of parents and children sleeping well tonight. I did not pay the entrance fee as I could see plenty through the pool type screen fencing plus how could I fit into the squeeze of limited spaces? I walked around the circuit to see lots of the activities, dancing, juggling, limbo dancing, coits (Australian name given for throwing a woven ring to land on a raised short pole from a 2m distance) and so much more.

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Moving on, I walked the streets and for some reason I seemed to be walking in circles .. Google Maps was certainly challenging me, cutting in and out and then resetting to another direction. So frustrating. I walked past a shop front showing a range of luxury cars selling Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Rolls Royce, etc .. so high-end, and in a country struggling to look after itself; so, who is buying these? I suspect Chinese only by what I am seeing within the show floor .. you could smell their money and it was so obscene to see them driving around the city in the vision of being called invaders with these luxurious chariots. The cost of one car could do so much for families here. It is upsetting to see such insane wealth and so brazen too.

Later, I eventually stumbled on the Central Market and isn’t this the biggest marketplace you’ve ever seen? So much to take in and a good chance of getting lost inside, so huge and busy as anything. It is all placed under a starfish type roof structure. Stumbling around now for hours I was ready to wind back beside the pool at the hostel with a cold beer .. or two. Not so far to walk now back to the hostel, so it was well timed. Once at the poolside I was feeling much better and gaining strength to fully overcome my ‘Cambodian Belly’ but still kept out of the pool. I found more communication with the Day Manager, Janny. She was really switched on in running the hostel and she thoroughly enjoyed my journey stories to date. It was great to have a conversation and especially better than the ones I have been having with myself for days now. Janny had always wished to travel and she hung on my every word.

The next day, Saturday, I stuck to the same walk around routine but this time I chose no tut-tut and trusted my feet to see the real culture of normal streets up close. Every house and shop front past were teeming with action and so many diverse products to sell, or services provided. Constant voices seem to be echoing off the walls. Even footpaths were taken up with merchandise so only the road was left to venture upon. Speaking of footpaths; the closer I came into the CBD area with traffic lights incorporating pedestrian crossings I would be standing at the kerb ready to walk and it was quite unnerving to have, say 10-20 scooters lined up directly behind me ready to hit the throttle. Pedestrians are barely tolerated here it seems and footpaths are part of the ‘roadway’. My Google Maps still played up and continued my frustrations. The amount of time wasted sometimes walking over the same traffic routes.

Google Maps shows an extremely large ‘waste’ area to the West of the old CBD. My research found that a few years ago a rich Cambodian woman owned this section and it was a large lake which was unkept and resembled a swamp apparently. Chinese developers bought this from her and criminally filled it in rather than clean it up and make it a city lung and peace place. Criminal, no other words for it in my book. Every city would kill to have a lake within its CBD boundaries. This was reaffirmed later when I visited Hanoi in Vietnam (a few blogs to go yet).

 It never dawned on me to seek out the Australian Embassy to see how our country is presented. Obviously, it would not be as impressive as the US Embassy but Google Maps shows it as a relatively new building not far from the Royal Palace on the Eastern side of the city. Post blog: I wished that I had ventured that way as it would have pointed me in a much better direction of the city where new development is progressing fast and incorporating better town planning. Overall, this day presented nothing much to see and/ or report, except for the sheer volume of scooters that never let up. Catching up with Janny and the pool area/ backpackers and night beers was a good stimulus before early bed. Thank God Janny reminded me last minute of my incoming laundry. Such a professional job and all folded perfectly at $4USD. This was 80% of my clothing so I could not afford to lose them. My backpacks feel so much better now, fully packed ready for tomorrow’s train trip to Sihanoukville. Like all my early morning departures and with the alarm set I become a much lighter sleeper and an early bed never seems to work.

Apologies, for the light material in this blog but in my defence, I was recovering physically from my ‘Cambodian Belly’ plus mentally on the Killing fields and S21 Prison. I trust you will stay tune for Part 5 coming soon. Thanks again for reading and look forward to any feedback that may be forthcoming. To date I have received a few comments and these have provided some gratification and clarification, so please keep these coming.

Please stay safe and healthy during this COVID-19 pandemic.