Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 6 – Koh Rong Island Tripping – Cambodia

My last night of 14 nights at Divers Hotel in Sihanoukville was non-eventful as always, with the constant late night and early morning noises of the restaurant next door. Really, I’m not too sad in leaving this hotel but I swore from the start of this journey of mine to not being spoilt by western standards .. so, toughen up Brian and enjoy the surprises!

I awoke to another alarm… arghh!! and raced out with an early check out to the first tut-tut operator that came along; for today, I take on another journey by checking in at Speedy Ferries at the Serendipity Pier and heading off to do my island tripping for 8 days of clean air and sunshine, etc away from the noise, bustle and constant construction and demolition here at Sihanoukville.

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I chose the faster ferries to the traditional slow boats (enlarged canoe/ fishing boat with basically a lawn whipper snipper motor with a small propeller) due to drastically reducing my time over the Bay of Thailand waters. There were strong rumours that the waters can be quite rough and many backpackers became very sea sick with no relief over quite some hours of boating. Several operators were expanding their ferry boats to cater for the increasing influx of tourists and the traditional slow boats may stick to closer locations in the future.

Checking in, I was again told my ferry would be non-stop to Koh Rong and a transport vehicle would be there to greet me and take me to my resort. No probs. Boarding the ferry, we were ushered on mass with a lot of hustling from the crew. Large backpacks taken off us and ‘thrown’ into storage hulls at the front, away from the bus-type bench seating of the passengers. It was a packed ferry alright and it was rather cramped but eerily quiet with no one conversing for the entire journey which was quite bewildering.

The trip seemed short, circling around a huge headland into an enormous bay with several piers. We stopped at the furthest point of the pier so we all couldn’t see much and then the Captain and crew start unpacking all our gear and placing them into a large pile on the narrow pier and then starts yelling with hand gestures. None of the crew could speak English and most passengers including myself became apprehensive. One passenger spoke up and said “we’ve been ordered off the boat” and then later on the pier we learn the passengers going to Koh Rong must wait for another ferry some 10mins away. We have concluded now that we have landed on Koh Rong Sanloem; so much for the non-stop ferry trip. The pier was very narrow and didn’t provide much comfort with standing room only between numerous luggage. I immediately remember my previous lesson learnt “smile at Cambodia and the world will smile back” making everything sort itself out. My fellow passengers start conversing now so that was pleasing.

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Ten minutes to the second the other ferry arrives and we repeat the onboard routine but now with plenty of open seating along its sides and a much older and larger boat. No life jackets required apparently. Upon reversing we can see a vibrant seaside resort village (Saracen Bay Beach) with numerous piers and bright colours everywhere, from boats to cafes to shops/ buildings. Looking out across the water we can see the massive new casinos in the distance at Sihanoukville sadly jutting into the hazy sea salt horizon.

A shorter journey across the strait has us entering another pier (Koh Rong Community Pier) at Koh Toch Beach. One of two and a young Englishman greets us with other Cambodians and points us to the end of the pier and to keep walking in the same direction through the soft sand to an awaiting ute/ truck to take us to our respective resorts. The soft sand was a 200m heavy slog carrying our full backpacks, suitcases, etc and a bit of a challenge to all. Nothing stood out at the end of the pier and its surrounds. The island of Koh Rong is the poorer sister of the two main islands in development so we will see what awaits us for the next 3 nights.

The vehicle turned out to be an old Toyota 2wheel drive ute with a canvas/ steel mesh canopy and side bench seats. We were ushered into the back all 13 of us with myself being the only sole traveller and obviously the eldest. There were 3 groups, mainly Chinese, Sth American and Spanish. On my first look I shook my head for there was no turning circle for the ute so it had to reverse and now will be fully laden, we will soon have a problem. Reversing some 20m we became bogged into the soft sand and the order was given to decant the vehicle. Everyone then stood around & the Englishman started using his hands to shovel out the sand around the rear tyres. Me, not one to be idle & still shaking my head I went into the surrounding bush and found some medium branches and placed them at the rear of the tyres. The Englishman was so pleased & began reversing for some 30m and we now can board again on the more solid reddish/ brown gravel road and turn the ute around.

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In the tray of the ute everyone had a cushioned seat, whereas I had to stand in the centre, behind the cabin in a slightly crouched position as the canopy wasn’t high enough. A younger & taller male (Chinese) stood on the tow bar and held onto the canopy. No respect for the elder person but I expected as much coming accustomed to the new millennium’s upbringing. What we all didn’t know was this outback dirt road trip was approx. 20klms through the jungle in a large winding circle. There was a huge volume of rain about 1 hour before the ferry arrived so with frequency we had to pass through flooded roads and lots of mud. My fellow passengers all had a lot to say in their own language passing through the flood waters and ongoing violent bumps in the road. I couldn’t understand them but knew the conversation subjects in between their semi-scared and laughing faces.

After about 1hour the ute slows and stops. Looking out we all see a farm fence and bushland. The Chinese group are told to decant and head down the foot track winding into the bushes. Apparently, their resort is at the river/ lagoon a good walk away. Seems inviting .. not!!! I have a seat now for some measly 100m when we stop again and the others get off, leaving just me to take in the remaining jungle road. So, I’m guessing I’m not going anywhere popular is another sign. A further 150m and another stop and the Englishman tells me to head in the Western direction along the beach for some 250m until I come to the village of San Sok. Can’t miss it. The track is like any other beach track except for the lack of waves to which I’m more accustomed to, whereas this island beach is within the Bay of Thailand and like a flat lake.

Surprisingly, the first building I come to is the Sok San Resort, my resort with a very dilapidated pier. Upon checking in I’m surveying my open-air view to see where my room would be, and I’m at a loss. With broken English the young gentleman welcomed me and ushered me back and across the pathway I previously walked, to a shed lined with asbestos sheeting and one padlocked door. Inside I find 2 double beds, each with mosquito nets and ceiling of old simulated fish nets, ceiling fan and a light bulb. The ensuite was something else with mould on the walls, a toilet pan and a shower head. A saucepan to scoop water from the keg barrel for a cold shower & to flush the toilet. No mirror, vanity or towel rail/ hook. My guide is now telling me I am in the best room. Wow!!

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I placed my bags down at the foot of the bed and ventured back to the pier to gather my thoughts when a couple from my ute trip arrived and viewed the other shed room and they voiced their displeasure and continued to find a better room elsewhere. They refused their original accommodation & later returned to mine to say they found a room at the end of the village. They could barely stay the night and will catch the ferry back to a better location and resort in the morning. Sitting out on the café seating looking out at the bay I resigned myself to accept this challenge of the ultimate low of accommodation and test my endurance and go from there. It’s just 3 nights. It is getting darkish so I go to the open counter of Reception to see when I can order some food. I’m told they are only open now to lunch orders and there is nothing here for me.

They direct me to walk down the concrete path as there are other places to eat. After some hesitation of limited choices, I enter a nice-looking traditional large hut with smiling faces. The menu suited me and they could accommodate all my food intake for the next 4 days so what a relief. I notice a very large group of Chinese and they were so rude to the staff and made a terrible mess of the table. Such pigs, & I would encounter them quite often as the days went on and due to this village being quite small. These people even left all their rubbish on the beach sand after swimming, etc.

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After dinner, I walked back towards my ‘shed’ in virtual darkness (no direct or street lighting) now realising I’m walking down what would be their ‘main street’. It is a 12-1500mm wide concrete path and dirt track, and you must be awake to the rush of the occasional scooter. Pedestrians are required to jump off the path. The scooters in late afternoon onwards can be ridden by kids as young as 8-10yrs old for there is no police here and there’s no age limit under 80cc. Village huts/ combined restaurants flank both sides of this path. One building is getting a major refurbishment and will be the prime resort of a decent quality when finished (double storey). One wing is completed but the workers are using it for the duration of construction so there’s no chance I could relocate for a better place.

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Each night was a task to sleep, for my bed was just a metre from the ‘main street/ path’ and I had strange and very loud & frequent cuckoo noises above my head. It was not a nice sound and I complained to my host but he brushed it aside when he couldn’t answer me. I later found out at my last resort on these islands the noises came from the local Tokay Geckos (lizard), where they can grow to 12” long (300mm) and over 1” (25mm) in diameter, not like our common geckos back home about 3” (75mm) long and 1/3^rd of an inch (7mm) diameter.

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The next few days I walked the lonely beaches, noticing the vile amount of rubbish and plastics from irresponsible and careless travellers and the serene clear waters of the bay. After much struggling with my host I was able to find out to get the ferry off the island I had to book 24hrs prior and pay in cash; but it was a guess I had to go to the far end of the village to the other pier to arrange this. Lucky, I asked, for the 24hrs is strictly policed for some reason. The young lady at the furthest pier was extremely helpful and spoke very good English and arranged my ferry booking, albeit it would only take me to the pier where I caught the ute originally and book another ferry. What a frustrating find to finally know someone I could communicate well with at the end of my stay that would have been well received earlier.

My resort café (on the pier was the only place WiFi would work), especially after the storm damage to the communications tower on the jungle mountain range; my phone coverage was beyond poor. With my beach walks I became committed to booking my Machu Picchu trek in Peru next April 2019 and contacted my travelling couple I met in Brisbane a few months prior to my Cambodia journey who thoroughly recommended it for me to do. They were excited for me and started a draft itinerary for me to assist in my future journey.

Doing a facebook post I was contacted by a gorgeous Netherlands lady, Ayla I met back in my hometown area of Yamba backpacking who recommended Pura Vita Resort on Koh Rong but unfortunately, I had my itinerary already set. It certainly ticked some boxes and of higher quality when I checked their website so I must recommend this resort.  https://www.puravitaresort.com

My 2^nd night here, a huge storm evolved and Cambodia certainly get very reactive ones, even in the so-called dry season we are currently in now. I thought my shed would be blown over or smashed that night. Looking out a window, lightning struck a tree about 50m away and I was blinded for a while, so that was enough for me to return to my bed. I became thankful; for I only had one more night to go.

My last night was uneventful which was awesome .. or was I getting conditioned to this environment? Slightly after dawn I had to awake to another alarm to catch the early ferry at the far village pier. I was excited to see my next adventure and was silently praying for improvement; but in the same breath I was so pleased with myself in enduring the last 3 days; albeit, it wasn’t that bad overall. The ferry was on time and it took me back to Koh Toch Beach on the Sth Eastern end of the island where I caught the ute at the end of the furthest pier.

Post blog: I later met a British ex-pat called Adam in Sihanoukville after my island tripping. We talked for about 4hrs straight. He owns & runs Adventure Adam on Koh Rong, Koh Toch Beach, which undertakes all forms of adventure from scuba diving, snorkelling, jungle trekking & almost everything else. It would have been an enormous catchup if I had met up with him earlier and get to see his setup while I was on the island. I strongly recommended to him he write his life story for it would be truly amazing. I must reconnect with him somehow to see if he has started on his epic. A book not to be missed.

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My next ferry took me to Saracen Bay Beach on Koh Rong Sanloem (where we first landed 4 days ago) which, again was confusing (Eastern side of the island). My ticket didn’t possess a lot of information but it was a much better pier (central to the village) and I could buy another ferry ticket on the pier to go to my next destination of M’ Pai Bay at 1pm (Central North of the island).  Being about 8.15am, the young man at the counter offered to store my large backpack until the ferry came (on the same pier) at 1pm. With a few hours to kill I walked this more vibrant and popular tourist location and found a great eating place on another pier for brekky. It was perfect and could have stayed there all day.

My next stays will now be on the island of Koh Rong Sanloem starting at M’Pai Bay which means #23 in Cambodian for #23 Pier, and then back to Saracen Bay so I’ll leave you now for the moment until I do my next posts on the above locations.

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, specially through this COVID-19 pandemic. I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment.