Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 8

Koh Rong Sanloem Island Tripping – Cambodia

From hearing tragic news yesterday about my cousin and in addition to his wife in regards to their health I feel compelled and with heartfelt compassion wish to dedicate this blog to them for their ongoing struggle and endless energy to living each day as it comes. They have endured a terrible 12 months and the news becomes more negative. Michael & Kaz (Karyn) loved travelling and thoroughly enjoyed the quiet beach scenes and beach swings and loved life in everything they did and continue to do and with a very large family including numerous grandchildren and now just became Great Grandparents. They are also both younger than I. This blog forms part of the quiet beach scene and beach swings in paradise and trust it is somewhat worthy. My words are never enough and with this COVID-19 fiasco I am unable to provide hugs and hold their hands. Prayers and thoughts abound.

From my last blog (Part 7) I was telling you about the man aged about late 50s walking at pace along the water’s edge with a cowboy hat on … and NOTHING else!! .. completely starkers and in full suntan all over, so he’s a regular nudist I suspect!!! Being a strong memory (unfortunately), I forgot to tell you about that particular beachfront on M’Pai Bay which was quite expansive of a sandy beach where there was a huge Cambodian Govt sign erected at what was the start of the island’s jungle but it had a bit of a Chinese connotation within it (hidden). It basically stated there is an approved development planned to further enhance a community feel. What a load of BS!! The approved development has already enabled a completed bulldozing of the jungle to 50% of the beach front, some 500m x 100m; like a war zone and surely is a criminal act to the island. Total devastation and disgusting! I dread what is coming .. and so most likely the residents living here.

Well, somehow fast was my last day at M’Pai Bay and the ferry was taking us travellers to Saracen Bay on the same island of Koh Rong Sanloem. It was a choppy sea and sad trip back to Saracen Bay, looking backwards at M’Pai Bay and the distant pier with the French lady and her young 5yr old son stranded there overnight after walking through the jungle all day to get to the pier (mentioned in Part 7).

When finally alighting at Saracen Bay there was no English assistance on the pier, just Cambodians wanting to do as they pleased and had no time given to the incoming travellers apart from taking our tickets with no eye contact and/ or smiles. Very different to the other piers we landed upon. Us travellers were all none the wiser as to where each of our resorts were located along the extensive beachfront. Pure frustration. On the pier I managed to get a rare phone signal to log into my resort & get a rough bearing. It is showing “The Beach Resort” to the right of the pier.

Stepping off the pier I headed along the very soft white sand struggling a little with my 2 solid backpacks and getting some foot traction. Being well after lunch the sand is quite hot too. The first sign I see is The Dive Shop so I kept on walking. After a good 10mins I stopped & wondered where my resort could be; so it must be behind me now. Walking back, I see what looks like a honeymoon couple sunbaking out the front of some thatched circular bungalows … yes, I know what a honeymoon couple looks like but I wish to not to disturb them. LOL!!! Somehow, another minute, I’m looking back at the Dive Shop again. Argghhh!!!!!

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Looking a little to the right behind The Dive Shop sign and basically hidden by palm trees and the like I can see my resort sign “The Beach Resort”. Yay!!!!! Walking in between native looking bungalows and a 2^nd storey accommodation block a petite, gorgeous young brunette walks around the corner past me which took me by surprise. She happily smiles and says “hello” but continues walking on. I soon found the main hall/ restaurant and reception (unattended). Within a few minutes the brunette comes up the steps to Reception and greets me again. I am now meeting Elena, a young Russian lady who is managing the resort for some months now. We immediately click and share in great banter speaking very good English; she gleefully shows me to my thatched bungalow #6 through the soft sand and hands me my key. My neighbours are the honeymoon couple. Small world .. haha! We also have to share the independent bungalow bathroom in between the 2 bungalows.

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I unpacked, albeit with no wardrobe. The bungalow is about 5m in diameter and the giant king-sized bed takes up most of the room. With everything now sorted I headed back to Reception. There, I ordered a nice cold beer, some food and listened to good western music in the background. I’m relaxed already. What a great environment. Elena chats with me some more and we share stories. So, pleased to share in good communication. Elena being the most beautiful Russian I have met to date is a much-welcomed bonus. Great personality and wonderful speaking voice. I later found out her boyfriend .. darn!! … & he’s definitely not much … of course (my jealous opinion I think). Such a shame I didn’t get a photo with her to share her smile.

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Darkness comes, more drinks and a healthy dinner looking out at the beach candle lights and soft music and I resign to take my respite into my bungalow with a King size bed. Bummer!!! I have squatters!!! A male & female Tokay Geckos. These are huge to our Australian house gecko versions. These grow to about 12”/ 330mm (see Photo). Very little sleep that night as they both ran along the ceiling poles and beams above my head chasing moths and the like. I had thoughts they would lose their footing and fall on top of me. They make a very loud ‘cuckoo’ sound as well, which is quite unnerving … reminds me of a similarity of the Predator movie creature sound. I was reassured with my mosquito net tightly tucked under all sides of my mattress but sleep was hiding well this night despite the calming roll of the tiny bay waves just some 15m away.

My alarm clock was the same as last night’s sounds; the small rolling waves of the bay. What a way to rise to the day. Getting organised for today’s ‘activities’, I was wondering how to time my sharing of the bathroom with the honeymoon couple. The bathroom was a lot closer to their bungalow door so I ensured I was quiet as possible. I wasn’t avoiding them, just respecting their privacy. Luckily, the Tokay Gecko ‘sunbaking’ on the door decided to move away but made sure he remained within the bathroom and shower area with his hiding place behind the glass mirror. I’m not a reptile lover.

Once I was organised, I went to the great hall (Reception and Dining) to partake in an abundant buffet of a selection of everything for breakfast. All for $7USD and to be greeted by Elena, yet again. Perfect morning so far and a glimpse of over-eating. I used their Wi-Fi with the hall as it is the only place that it works within the resort area. If I was desperate for the internet service, I would have to stand in the bay water some metres out (waist deep), so not keen for that. My first duty of any island stay is to explore and discover what lies unknown. The first option is always the beachfront so I head North, away from the main pier and to where the beach extends some shorter kilometres it seems than Southwards.

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The resorts are infrequent along this Northern beachfront and most are under renovation. I headed around a small rocky outcrop adjacent to an unused pier where I found boulders of unusual shapes and one, I called “My Whale Rock”. Following on from this naturally affected masterpiece I entered the sandy grounds of a resort and I find it awkward, as they encompass the direct beach access and to get to the remaining beach, one must enter its grounds. This resort scales both sides of a small natural occurring waterfall coming down the steep mountain behind. The flow of the water then enters a man-built lagoon like a very large spa bath with perimeter seating around.  Obviously, the guests would have the mind to stay in this all day such is the ambience and waterfall energy. If I was more brazen, I could have eased my way into it to enjoy it too. I think I would have stood out as a likely imposter.

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Past this resort the large headland comes into play and there is no sandy beach to enjoy. I’m not sure who developed the structure of an elevated timber pier-like walkway but it was a welcomed relief to eliminate the rocky outcrop some 3m below. The walkway also had small office-type rooms off it but most were empty until I came across the only one in service today. A hairdresser was cutting a few locals hair and some of the family were sitting outside. I did my normal “hello” and smiles but then realised the walkway had ended abruptly and there was nowhere else to go. A young local chap replied back in English; his preferred name was “T”. A very friendly and mindful person of good upbringing I soon found.  I introduced myself, but they all struggled on my name so I offered “B”. T & I sat together and spoke for some 20+minutes at least. We talked about so many things but mostly how much the Chinese had affected their daily and future lives and their creeping obscene development. T had lost so much work, along with his family and siblings. The Chinese import their own workers and some of these are prisoners brought over. It is so sad to see this nature and human destruction, even on the islands now. Saying goodbye is always difficult for me knowing never to set eyes or speak to these wonderful people again so I always wish another friendly “stay safe, happy & healthy” and clasp my hands in a prayer-like movement upon departing.

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After my lengthy chat with ‘T’ I head back to my resort via that all so tempting waterfall pool for more fresh water intake and then headed South for the extended beachfront kilometres. For almost the entire length of beachfront, some 4klms or so are neighbouring resorts and hotel stays, all except one are single storey structures. There was possibly 30+ resorts along this end of the beachfront. One resort had numerous large ‘concrete pipes’ converted to small stand-alone fully catered rooms “Pipe Resort” of course is its name. Haha! Nearly every establishment has their own set of serenity swings, hammocks and the like placed on the sand or within the bay waters. Perfect escape for anyone and I wondered if I used them would I be spotted as an intruder. Best not upset the ambience. I only noticed 2 resorts with swimming pools. I walked as far as it was possible to the Southern headland then looked back to see the pier in the hazy far distance. Where is a Tuk-Tuk; a long walk back?  

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Taking my time walking back, noticing being slightly after lunchtime, that I was basically the only one walking the beachfront in the hot sun of course. Probably, not smart. I was about 100m from the main pier when I noticed the young French woman with her 5yr old son I met in M’Pai Bay. She finally made it onto the ferry. I added some pace now so that I would meet her at the foot of the pier. She was quite surprised a stranger helped her down from the pier and then she was doubly surprised when she remembered our meeting on M’Pai Bay pier yesterday. Obviously, she was drained of energy, dehydrated, heavily sunburnt and stubborn as I basically had to reap her backpack off her shoulders. I was determined to walk her to her resort to meet her sister. Finally, found out her name was Marie. Within an instant she was so happy and relieved from the weight of her backpack and some of her hidden energy returned. Her resort was some 1.5klms down the beach I just walked.

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The sun was hot but the conversation was pleasing and before long we entered the reception and she whisked off hugging her sister behind the counter. I don’t know when they last saw each other but I guess it was a very long time ago by the length of the hugging. Her son stayed with me and Mum’s backpack until Marie returned and said “Thank You” and she had to quickly shower, eat lunch, a quick nap and head off to the Southern pier for another ferry later that afternoon with her sister. Such a shame for a quick goodbye but at least I saved her a bit of hardship and gave her more time by taking the backpack. I wished her safe travels and headed back to my resort’s hall for some sustenance (beer & food). What a day!! Some 10klms of walking, I think. I also had a senior’s afternoon nap too and after I managed a “hello” to the honeymoon couple finally after their sunbaking but they smiled and kept to themselves understanding they did not speak English … although a European couple.

It was a long night sitting in the Great Hall after dinner with no-one to talk to .. there were young couples but they were definitely in their own world and I found myself staring out to the black sea of water in the sand candles scattered out front with the orchestra of rhythmic bay waves lapping the white sand. Taking the orchestra with me and settling into the oversized bed I noticed only 1 Tokay Gecko present but still relied upon my safety of the mosquito net for the night. I slept so soundly and awoke to find no Geckos present come late sunrise. Using the bathroom, I found 1 Gecko again on the bathroom door which soon found the safety spot behind the mirror. Definitely not a reptile lover. Just saying.

Lately, every morning there is a roll of thunder and then heavy rain followed by full sun where you could almost set your watch to it. Everything becomes fresh .. the air, clean smells, your mind and attitude. What a blessing to be in paradise. With my tummy full from another great brekky I walked to the Southern beach pier (outgoing pier .. about 5klms return walk) to obtain my return ticket to Sihanoukville ferry (remember 24hrs clear notice to board). The walk was so laidback and very similar to yesterday albeit far less kilometres. Everyone seemed to be soaking up the day and taking in the quiet ambience. Everything was so quiet. I returned to the Great Hall and continued my Travel Writer’s Programme (new International Member) on my laptop and spent the day just settling back. Elena was having a day off and she did a bit of wading for most of the day in amongst the bay waves with her boyfriend so no-one close by to converse with. It can get lonely at times if it enters your mind.

The night was much the same but the food and beer was well worth staying up for. It was time to absorb everything coming in from the bay through the candlelight ambience. Fresh slight breezes, soothing bay wave sounds, etc; much better than manufactured digital recordings you buy or download. Come, the morning it was again much the same, thunder, rain & sunshine and it was my time to start the checkout process. I said good-bye to the Tokay Geckos now sleeping well in the cone-shaped roof structure of the bungalow. I’m sure they will miss me …???

Where had my 2.5 days gone here at Saracen Bay? Completely at ease and so tranquil in everything I did and thought about. No stressed decision making, nor anything to complain about. Brekky was paramount to over indulge (responsibly) as my next meal will be in the fast-paced Sihanoukville. Elena was busy with a few people checking out so saying good-bye was a bit rushed to my liking. I’ll miss her vibrancy and personality. After staying in the Great Hall after brekky making my journal notes and marking time for my ferry departure I struggled and screamed under my breath to make my way to the Southern Pier. I wished I could stay longer, much like the expats with extended visas here.

Reaching the pier, one wonders why there is no station or housing on the pier for shade as the sun is beating down at midday. I found some tree shade right off the pier with a timber step. Here I would stay saying hello to fellow travellers over time and it was the 3^rd ferry that finally became mine to board some 1.5hrs late. Surprisingly, the ferry entered M’Pai Bay for the first stop (opposite direction) for more passengers and once again, Steve, The Pier Captain was in full voice and vigour. He was too far away to offer a shouted “Hello” so I channelled my trusty ESP. LOL!!

Within 15minutes we departed for Sihanoukville, some 40mins away across the Bay of Thailand. I’m sure I left something of myself back on those islands and with heavy prayers they remain relatively untouched from the dreaded Chinese invasion.

Heading towards Sihanoukville’s pier you can see the confronting skyrise structures of ugly casinos blanketing the shoreline. Currently, some 34 mega-casinos are in construction and another 16 are ready for approval to start, thus making a total soon of about 87 operating casinos; all with virtually no community infrastructure. Straight off the pier to the left I find my usual window bench table at the Turkish bar and ordered a cold beer before I headed up Serendipity Street hill to my next hotel stay at Mick & Craig’s Guesthouse.

Doing this blog & reliving my experiences in chilling out, soaking in the serenity and the beach environment I now realise where are my photos that I now wished I had to share with you? I totally absorbed all that surrounded me and blissfully forgot those that are not here to walk and sit with me; to look through my eyes; so, I’m passing on my sincere apologies for being selfish and trust you at least like the photos I did take.

My next blog (no more Parts) will be the new phase of surviving Sihanoukville with a lease of adjusting to the bustle and find some interesting people to share my time with so stay tuned as things start to progress.

Prayers and thoughts Michael & Kaz.

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, specially through this COVID-19 pandemic. I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment.