My Vietnam Launch – Hanoi Revisited & Beyond – 2018 Backpacking

This blog reminds me of a Pericles quote but I have put a slight twist to make it more personal/ relevant and hope it also resonates with you (reader). “What you leave behind is not what is engraved on your headstone, but what you engraved into the minds and lives of others”. I was blessed and rewarded with great parents, extended families (Aunts/ Uncles/ Cousins), life friends and mentors and hope that I may have been able to do the same to others along my life journey.

Settling back into my beloved Hanoi Hotel Gratitude after my Halong Bay Cruise and the overburden of food eating that should have lasted me for days I succumbed to a very light brekky of toasts with an egg and coffee. 10 course meal sittings are really pushing limits especially when mostly lounging around on a boat. In total it was 34courses of food over the 24hrs … I felt another 10kilos heavier and my clothes a lot tighter. LOL!!!!

This Hanoi day was classed as an easy chill out day with the most excitement in catching up with my young student Julia (17) who was ‘praying’ we would have a chance to meet up again and discuss more of her schooling lessons. She was thrilled with my ongoing mentoring and she was much like a sponge in holding onto every word I spoke and sent several texts to see if I was still in Hanoi.

I walked around the well-known French Quarter (Historical Centre) alongside the famous Hanoi city lake, Ho Hoan Kiem Lake, in perfect sunshine with plenty of time till Julia could join me. I did another pass-by of the impressive and historical Nha Tho Lon Ha Noi (Grand Catholic Church – 1886) and then headed to our favourite café, The Note Coffee. This café is West of the Den Ngoc Son temple which is located on its own island within the lake mentioned above. It is a very popular park area and this café is so unique with post-it-notes covered all over the walls from tourists around the world. I took a photo of my favourite one when Julia had her first smoothie and cake .. ever!! Such an experience and her first ‘brain freeze’ through the straw. A priceless memory.

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Waiting out the front of The Note Café in pleasing sunshine was a young Vietnamese teenager greeting customers at the front steps. She was so welcoming you just had to enter the café and not walk past. We had a great chat in between her duties. She was so bubbly and repeated to me I must visit her home town next; Ninh Binh. She was so proud of it and said it was the next best stop heading South with major tourist attractions.

Julia has now arrived and limping badly towards me. Thankfully, I discovered she was not injured but now wearing her sister’s smaller shoes, as her neighbour’s dog mauled one of her only shoes on their verandah, the day prior. She was so relieved we went straight into the café so she could take them off. Julia was overwhelmed when she was granted another smoothie and cake while we discussed her studies and progress. Julia was well aware now of the ‘brain’ freeze effect and now confidently stating her progress on studies, breathing rhythms and feeling of a better understanding of her education. She is more impressive every time we meet up and I’m more than confident she will excel further into the future.

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It was getting late and dark of night so I walked Julia to her bus stop a few blocks away. She was keen to start on the lessons I gave her while still on the bus. So amazed at her enthusiasm. Later that night she textd me with her answers and explanations of her lessons and she was thrilled she had completed them successfully and could understand the theory & practical aspects. I applied slight pressure to see if she is coming into the city tomorrow. She could only say “hopeful”.

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After brekky, I walked the city streets being on a mission. First, I walked to the Historic Centre and proceeded along the lake, past The Note Café and again the vibrant usherette was out the front and recognised me from across the street, slightly yelling “Nihn Binh”!! I was so thrilled to see her again and couldn’t wait to walk through the traffic to confirm my hotel, Hanoi Hotel Gratitude, hadbooked my bus for tomorrow morning to stay at Nihn Binh and lodge at Go Nihn Binh, a hostel converted from an old railway station. She was so thrilled and wished me safe travels. She would call out to me every time I walked close to the café “Don’t forget Ninh Binh”!!! I will miss her and every time we talked, we were filled with joy and laughter, such that I never sought her name … I have no other reason for being so dismissive, so I’m left with the memory of her face and laughter. Mind you she didn’t seek my name either which probably confirms the previous sentence. I will also miss the other friendly effervescent people of Hanoi.

Google Maps was being a real pain today and kept walking me in circles. The inner-city streets of the Historic Centre have several streets dedicated to the one or two sets of merchandise. This includes the ‘Electrical Street’, ‘Linen Street’, ‘Appliance Street’, ‘Building Street’, etc and each street goes for blocks. If you can find the right street then you can save a lot of walking. For me, I had walked approx. 4-5klms extra so I’m so getting over it! .. just trying to find ‘Shoe Street’ & I was eventually successful without Google Maps assistance. I perused a few shops and took notice which shops I preferred.

It was near time to meet up with Julia so I took great notice of this street location so I can find it without the added trauma/ drama & headed off to near The Note Café/ roundabout where the road was now cordoned off for pedestrians only. There was a large crowd gathering on the roadway where a group of dance students showed their moves according to different songs on the stereo system. This was a joyous sight, seeing everyone enjoying this interaction spectacular. After a while I headed off towards Julia’s bus stop and soon found her limping again with her sister’s shoes cramping her feet. I explained to her I found something I wanted her to see and I pushed hard knowing she had about a kilometre of limping ahead of her. She eventually agreed so I took measures in dialogue to take the limping pain far from her mind. It mostly worked thankfully. When we turned the corner, she noticed the shoe shops starting and I said I have a couple of shops to show her. Julia was confused and then realised I was buying her a pair of shoes for her. She repeatedly hesitated and didn’t wish for me to spend more money on her (cakes & smoothies) but she ultimately knew I was always going to win. Best $13USD I had ever spent after she tried on several pairs. Julia was so over the moon and showed a few tears of sheer joy. She was happy to show them off for a photo and confirmed her feet were happy too.

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Bouncing on her new shoes Julia was so excited to go back to The Note Café for cake, smoothie and to talk about life & education. She was so happy to put her sister’s shoes into the shoe bag. I think she might even sleep with her new shoes still on and said the dog won’t be getting these. We talked for ages and knowing not a second to spare. Julia was so happy but became solemn when she knew I was leaving Hanoi tomorrow. I was not one for leaving either but I have the rest of Vietnam to explore and manage the time required to do so. Julia will always be in contact with me so that is pleasing. Being so late I did not hesitate to walk Julia to her bus stop. A very sad goodbye followed and she joined her bus. A gentle wave and a wry smile followed. Julia remains in contact with me to this very day. How I wish to go back and catchup with her and see Hanoi & Vietnam again. She has changed so much when you see her photo below. Julia later excelled in her studies so much; she graduated at a higher level, a better school and to a level where she was granted a graduation in traditional dress. 2nd from left, white flowers suits her too.

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I was almost back to my hotel when I remembered my laundry had not been picked up. Yikes!!! I hope the lady is still there? A huge U turn followed and I was totally aghast the lady was still there this late at night. She even remembered me too and went straight to a bag high on the shelf amongst, say a hundred bags and sure enough, the clothes were mine. She knew I was so grateful and her smiles were amazing, even before the extra cash I gave her. Such amazing people wherever I gaze.

Getting back to my hotel Maureen was all smiles too … confirming my departure to Nihn Binh with valet driver as well to the bus station. I’ll have to have a fast brekky to meet the timeframe but all is good. Maureen was pleased to upgrade my room as a new customer required my room later tonight. A valet even demanded he help me relocate. Certainly a great room .. but the TV wouldn’t operate. No big deal but thought I would let Maureen know for future maintenance. She was frantic on my message and kept apologising. I did not really need a TV but she would not hear of it .. within minutes I was relocated again to a wonderful room. The valet checked everything and rang Maureen to say all is perfect. The service was unparalleled and far beyond any expectations. Settling into the King size bed for a fast away sleep Julia texd me to say she arrived home safe, completed her education tasks and was off to sleep as well. I thanked her so much for her friendship, care, attitude and commitment and I think we both would have slept soundly after.

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I was also very thankful in being able to thank Maureen face to face and wish her well, for she was on deck again on Reception the morning of my departure. She is an exceptional Manager & I told her so. Within minutes of that praise, the valet was picking up my backpacks and placing them in the car. It was now a rush to depart. Bon Voyage Hanoi Hotel Gratitude and Hanoi in general.

In stating the obvious, my next Vietnam blog will be on Nihn Bihn and surrounding area, and you will be most surprised on what I uncovered there.

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, especially through this COVID-19 pandemic and for 2021 to be a far better year. I do not receive any commissions &/or ‘perks’ from the above nominated businesses & locations as I am purely happy to provide the acknowledgement and connection.

I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment. My next blog/s will be more of the amazing Vietnam experiences and quite a few were life changing, & not just for me.

Live life to the most and a quote that I truly love is from Eckhart Tolle ..

“If I am not the hero of my life … who in the hell could be?”

My Vietnam Launch – Hanoi Revisited & Bai Tua Long Bay Cruise – 2018

When I was in Cambodia, ending my 2 months of backpacking, I trusted my Hanoi Hotel Gratitude to book the best things to do in the Hanoi region and they didn’t disappoint, apart from the tour companies charging me the sole traveller fee which can be excessive .. more like extortion really. Sapa & Fansipan were amazing (refer to previous blogs) and now I have 2 days to revisit Hanoi after my Halong Bay cruise. Everyone does a Halong Bay cruise visiting this region but more are doing the Bai Tua Long Bay cruise due to less boats and people venturing there. Bai Tua Long Bay offers the same sights generally and the smaller number of boats is a real advantage, trust me. There is also less lining up & waiting to do the excursion jaunts but before I talk more of the cruise trip, I wish to start from my Hanoi departure, so please bear with me.

I had to awake early the next day so it was an early night for me to recover from my Sapa days and to catch the 8am bus to Halong Bay. The hotel certainly looked after me in this area. Another valet pickup to the bus but it was a blessing this time as I only needed my daypack so I was lucky the hotel stored my larger backpack for me until my return. Feeling a bit like royalty, really with this valet provision. Unlike my previous bus trip with 47 passengers, this trip only required a 12 seater Coaster bus, but the leg room was very tight and we were very cosy. Real cosy .. arrgh! To Halong Bay we travelled in a SE direction from Hanoi and a full 2.5hrs, with a stopover (170klms) at a half way point at a captive tourist gallery that was priced accordingly (to find an exit was difficult, hence the word captive) … Priced to rich Chinese tourists that is. Ouch!!! They had disability artists and sewers and other trades doing embroidery pictures, sculptures, paintings, etc and that was my standout point to see their amazing skills, but I knew of course these artists would be paid an absolute pittance to the goods sold.

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With the stopover it turned out to be a 4hr trip and upon arrival at the Hong Gai Tourist Wharf, we literally exploded out of the van (packed tight) to a swarm of people (tourists), mainly Asians/ Chinese, all with no sense of any orderly fashion in keeping to groups. Organisers are yelling out in relation to the cruise ship names for boarding. The wharf follows the bay’s edge and is quite long, so the number of loading craft can be high in volume. These loading craft take you to the respective cruise ships anchored a few hundred metres off shore and then tied to the rear of the cruise ship for the bay journey after unloading the passengers.

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Our ship was the Oriental Sails, and we were lucky quite a few other landing boats had already left the wharf so the drama was less erratic, but barely. In walking down, the numerous steps to our craft I heard a loud “Brian” coming from a few boats down. It was Robert & his wife from my Sapa 6klms trek the other day. They came running up to say “hello” and were thrilled to see me again, as I was to see them. We were just getting into a good conversation when we were both called to urgently go to our loading craft. Bummer!!! We never got to exchange our contact details. Bummer, again! To be recognised through this loading mayhem was amazing … or do I really stand out of the crowd for some unknown reason? LOL!

Our Oriental Sails cruise ship was moored close to shore so it was a very fast trip. Not worth putting on the safety water vest. Upon boarding we were ushered to the roof platform for our safety induction and welcoming and receiving our berthing keys to our respective rooms. The Captain was ‘quirky’ in his address to us describing the status levels of each room upon handing the keys out. My introduction was last of the groups and my room was the “President’s Room”, the high-end room. After this embarrassment I felt guilty having the palatial room, he called it and being a sole traveller too. Guilt elapsed quickly once I realised the money I paid for the berth and to be charged the Sole Traveller Levy imposed as mentioned at the start of this blog. This fee doesn’t miss its ouch level.

The Captain was forceful in demanding we settle into our rooms promptly and meet in the food hall so the lunch can get underway and he can set the course to the much further North Bai Tua Long Bay and to get through the mire of other cruise ships mooring in the closer Halong Bay.

My room, through the Captain’s introduction, was the only one fitted with an ensuite and it was most presentable too. Luxury abounds. Gathering into the food hall upstairs from my room, we were immediately seated, no chance of conversation. The table was in full dress and splendour. The Chef explained the meals coming and the time schedule for the other meal times and then he asked each of us (groups) to separately introduce ourselves and provide some commentary on our origins and backgrounds. I was relieved when my story was applauded loudly. I was the only Westerner too and my story being so different from my Asian travellers was obvious, really. The next shock was the 10-course serving for lunch! Yikes!! So much food! You cannot believe the high-level detail in the presentation of the food. You’d think you were in a palace or something!!

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The ship started moving, we are under way. I found myself sitting almost central to the large dining table however the only connection I received was with a Malaysian family, parents with 2 teenagers sitting to my left. They explained each of the meals coming out and which were to try first. In all my Earth years I have never seen so much food brought out in a procession and each impeccable in presentation. How are they managing this on such a medium size 20berth cruise ship? The pressure was on to eat full and fast .. how can I stop this food rollout? .. I’m going to burst at the seams! I’m not a big food eater at the best of times and I’m already pushing my limit at course 6. Four more to go! There’s no escape … I’ll have to disguise my effort. So far, the plan worked, my new teenage friends were helping me out as well in between their moments of shyish laughter.

Finally course 10 had been extinguished … please just let me sit here .. I don’t feel the need to move. I feel like I have to be carried out. The Chef has come out to receive the obvious applause and was looking for total acceptance of course. That was the pressure placed upon him and his kitchen hands, no doubt. All is good, but he now insists we clear the chairs and re-sit ourselves up onto the roof deck and recover there, whilst his crew clear the room ready for dinner later on. OMG!!! Another 10course sitting. You’re kidding!! I can’t see myself surviving that!

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The rooftop deck was in full sunshine, with most of the people taking the only shade shelter in the centre. I didn’t mind, I’m a sun person anyway, and the deck chair was just what I needed at the moment. My stomach, now overstretched .. just in need of a power hibernation. We had cleared the armada of other boats and were in open ‘sea’ amongst all the well-known carved out limestone islands jutting out of the bay waters like nature’s monuments of peace. The water is so clear and of a strong emerald to blue colour. The clarity was amazing!!!

After about 2hrs of cruise ship motor humming we slowed down and took anchor. Our guide calls us all together on the roof deck to explain our next adventure in seeing the newly proclaimed Marine Environment Park and its nature centre using the existing floating village of Cap De where some 260 villagers lived harmoniously with the natural environment. This village relocation took place in 2014 where they housed the villagers back onto the mainland to improve their living conditions. I truly wonder if that was the real case and had they really improved their living conditions and lifestyle. Surely, they would soon see they were robbed from the amazing nature’s beauty and fresh fishing, etc and the calmness of their paradise, now paid with the hustle & bustle of motorised calamity. Sometimes, the natives protect their environment better than Governments. The Government, now using the village restored 24 of the floating houses for tourism out of about 60 that were in existence.

Our guide explains our options of taking our own kayaks in pairs or take the tourist row boats under the control of the local mainland people, predominately rowed by ladies. With his reference to the sea breezes and swirling light water currents it may be a struggle for kayaking (4klm loop) so we all chose the mainland row boats after fitting our life jackets. Once on the water, the sea breezes stopped and noticed other cruise people of the other boats using kayaks … argghh!!!! It seemed like a ploy to engage the rowboats for more revenue. The kayaks were free I learnt later.

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We circled the small island with the floating village in all its bright new paint colours, assuming the lifestyle accompanying village life. I had already witnessed a very large floating village in the inland lake, Tonie’ Sap … Cambodia, out from Siem Reap (previous early blog). Both villages were mostly self-contained with their own school, church, market & the like. Each house was small in nature, nothing too glamorous but obviously, served the required purpose. Their docks lined with all types of fishing gear, traps & nets.

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Leaving the floating village, the rowers took us out to more of the open sea to another close uninhabited island with a sea arch carved and eroded over thousands of years or more. The arch was so low you felt the need to lower your head. Touching the stalagmites was forbidden as human body oils, even on fingertips can prevent the lime water from adhering to the tip, thereby preventing its growth downwards. Hitting one’s head on them can cause a very nasty gash and this must be avoided at all costs.

Our sea adventure was over in an hour which was perfect timing for returning to the boat and undertaking your preferred relaxation, unpacking and in readiness for the dinner onslaught fast arriving. I chose to unpack and securing another deck chair and revisiting my recent photos taken on my Samsung S7 phone. My backpacks could not afford the space for a SLR camera which was such a shame but one must be practical when your packing is on the heavy weight side. After boarding, the Captain started the loud diesel engines and steered the boat between two large peaks apparently to seek a secluded night spot quite some nautical miles away. When we just started to recline into our deck chairs our guide informs us, we are to explore a special island within the hour. While putting on our life jackets and forming a line we are instructed on the safety aspects forthcoming and that we will go inside a large cave and see a rare sandy beach.

With a short run in the tag boat, we could already see the Govt wharf and other berthing boats secured in place there. We were advised of the tight timeframe so we had best not linger. You had to be careful on the narrow steps and rock paths to a higher mid-level cave of the island peak amongst the other travellers. I noticed one of the groups had a very beautiful guide who spoke perfect English and very informative. She was gorgeous and very toned like a gymnast/ athlete. Apologies for the typical male comment but she was so much better than our guide in every way and our guide was almost silent so I trained my ear to her voice of knowledge.

The steps were quite steep and winding and the cave entrance was very unassuming but opened its glorious belly to a myriad of stalagmites of all different sizes and colours. What a hidden gem! It was the feeling of being within a snowball that sits on a child’s dressing table. The artificial lighting was done superbly without being over-done. Truly nature is wonderful when you see these magical sights. It was surprisingly difficult to take photographs too, so apologies, again. Walking back down the steps we are directed to another path that led you onto the sandy beach. Being Australian, where we are abundantly blessed with the world’s best beaches, it was a bit of a let down but I respected everyone’s comment of enjoying a rare sandy beach in Vietnam.

This 1hour excursion was soon over, alas, but the beautiful guide remained in our circle for most of it and made our excursion far better. I felt the need to thank her but respected her privacy, etc. Walking back to the wharf I had a dreaming moment of Robinson Crusoe on such a beach. LOL!!! Back onto the boat the Captain spent no time in getting underway, obviously the timeframe was critical in setting up for the night. We were given enough time for a shower and a change of clothes in readiness for those wishing to partake in the culinary of making authentic Vietnamese Spring Rolls. The table was full of volunteers so it was left to me to be one of the tasters to which I enjoyed immensely, although I was not inclined to eat more food really. The rolls were amazing! We were given an hour’s grace before we would be hit with Dinner; although I had no inclination of any hunger present of course. As if we really needed feeding! The food presented at dinner was tremendous and heavier in nature, compared to the so-called light lunch prior. Can’t seem to fathom why 10 courses is so necessary. Thankfully, I had my Malaysian teenagers to rescue me again. Funny, how all passengers retained their same seats, again with some refusing to communicate. Found this so bewildering. As you can imagine, the dinner was much the same as lunch with the overburden of food within my stomach. How am I going to sleep tonight?

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After dinner, we were again ushered out for the clean-up and for those interested, the cruise personnel had a number of fishing poles ready for squid fishing. It was a good activity to overlook upon and hear the laughter and shrieks of squid sightings. No-one was lucky enough to catch one so that may have been a blessing too. My deck chair was a relaxing welcome when most had returned to their berth cabins. A neighbouring boat restarted and anchored further away. Its generator was abusing the peace & quiet in this sea wilderness. I suspect our Captain had told them to relocate. One could imagine the populated chaos of the more tourist boats in Halong Bay. Our resting anchor for the night was the centre of Bai Tua Long Bay and due East of Hanoi on the same Latitude so we had come a fair way North from the township of Halong Bay.

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Being some 6m off the water surface on the roof deck, I had a clear view of the squid fishing and enjoying the warmer air but the minute it became not so, I returned to my cabin and surprisingly was fast asleep in no time. Was it the salt air or the complete knowledge of peace in this serene wilderness?

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Luckily, I had set my alarm clock for the early morning rise to partake in the Tai Chi group activity, set for 7am start. The elderly gentleman, nearing 70yrs old I believe was excellent and I was amazed how controlled you had to be to achieve the fluidness of the moves and your breathing. No wonder the instructor looked 60, not 70yrs! At exactly 1 hour’s end, I was lathered in sweat (early sun had emerged in good form too) and noticing I seemed to be out of shape in fitness. All my recent trekking, I should be in very good fitness. I may be wrong by the looks of this event .. Go Figure!

As soon as the Tai Chi activity was finished the Captain raised the anchor & we started on our journey back to Halong Bay wharf area. Retiring to my cabin for a well-earned shower (my cabin was the only one with an ensuite, so I’m enjoying this part of luxury). I had to repack too in readiness for a mid-day departure. Breakfast was a full on 4 course meal … Oh .. my stomach!!! Someone will have to help me depart & board the tag boat and into the van bus, I’m sure!

With my packing and shower duties completed I ‘hastened’ up the stairs to the roof deck to say ‘good-bye’ to the giants of lime peaks we pass. You can’t help but be connected to these wonders. The silence was broken when we were scurried into the Dining Room .. thinking of a quick de-briefing and then departure, now that we are anchored into Halong Bay amongst the myriad of boats of all sizes. OMG!!! Lunch is now in session … another 10course meal!!! I won’t fit into our van bus to Hanoi now!  A wrap or small hamburger would have done just fine … I’ve never eaten so much … & in a short period of time. Each food setting, I was in such awe I had forgotten to take photos to prove this over-indulgence. Surviving the lunch onslaught, I said good-bye to my fabulous Malaysian family and for their total embracement of this lone Aussie traveller and I re-issued this good-bye again upon our landing departure on the mainland. Unfortunately, I was unable to spot Robert & his wife from the other boats so I had to board the van, eagerly awaiting departure for the 4hr return trip to Hanoi & thankfully I gained a good comfortable seat.

For some reason, the return trip only took 3hrs, with a 20minute stopover which allowed me to receive a very warm re-welcoming from Hanoi Gratitude Hotel & to drop off my laundry to a very pleasing lady in a side street in Hanoi. They are so grateful for EVERY business walking in the door. I also managed to find a shop that repaired my glasses and under a lot of protests by him, he refused any cash from me. So in love with the people, I am meeting here.

I’ll leave this blog here to start my Hanoi revisited & to find my next location afterwards in my upcoming blog.

Like my previous blog on Sapa/ Fansipan I wish to dedicate this blog to my youngest brother, Rod taken by a severe Cardiac Arrest 4yrs ago at just 54yrs. It’s his birthday today 22^nd May. Scotch tonight to celebrate his life with us.

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, especially through this COVID-19 pandemic and for 2021 to be a far better year. I do not receive any commissions &/or ‘perks’ from the above nominated businesses & locations as I am purely happy to provide the acknowledgement and connection.

I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment. My next blog/s will be more of the amazing Vietnam experiences and quite a few were life changing, & not just for me.

Live life to the most and a quote that I truly love is from Eckhart Tolle ..

“If I am not the hero of my life … who in the hell could be?”

My Local Aussie Escape – Shoal Bay & Newcastle Region NSW 2021

Just in case you were wondering where I’ve been hiding these past months, in not uploading more travel blogs I have finally managed to sell our house (my brother & I) in Northern Gold Coast, just north of the Theme Parks in Queensland and relocated some 300klms South, close to my hometown of Grafton in a seaside village called Yamba. This was no easy feat if you knew the background to this and to ‘downsize’ from an enormous house to a smaller rental property to search for our new abode, whatever that will be. The move required several trips, mostly in the teeming rain & lots of it and it was all done by myself & my brother. We were bone soaked so many times. Relocation brings a few challenges but I’ll endeavour to catchup and find my new routine and/ or purpose in a much smaller community. Yamba brings me closer to my family of cousins and holiday friends plus the amazing six beaches and the Clarence River (The Big River).

Months prior to selling the house and with our Ireland trip cancelled last year (2020) we, (an ex-gf & I) arranged, due to no international travel due to COVID we sought out a more local Aussie trip through my association with Wyndham Resorts and with great luck we scored a 2 week escape to Shoal Bay/ Wyndham/Ramada Hotel for April 2021. These resorts are booked well in advance so to get a rushed holiday apartment is like winning Lotto when successful. I was able to book 2 solid weeks too in the one apartment without having to swap rooms.

The main purpose for this escape is for my ex-gf to get away for a break and a complete chill out seeing her holidays were always a long way off and restrictive. With being in Yamba, NSW In March 2021 I was able to catch the local 380 bus to Grafton ($6AUSD) to be picked up the next day after I spent a sleepover at one of my favourite cousin’s place where it is always a great catchup & company and we throw in a superb pub dinner meal too. Bus travel is required now that I don’t possess a car .. yet.

From Grafton to Shoal Bay is about 5hrs road trip travelling 100klms/hr due South on the new divided and upgraded Pacific Hwy. Such easy travelling now on this uninterrupted roadway (most towns are by-passed). We broke the trip at Port Macquarie and in this case, wasted time & effort. Worst coffee EVER!! Yuk! Travelling further South we took the first off shoot (Medowie Rd) towards Nelson Bay skirting Salamander Bay/ Soldier’s Point first & then Nelson Bay to the neighbouring Shoal Bay, a very quiet bayside village. You have to travel slightly further South East to Fingal Bay to get a full ocean look.

Checking in to Shoal Bay Wyndham Ramada was a breeze and receiving the 1^st floor bay views with balcony. The Ramada also incorporates The Shoal Bay Country Club (SBCC) which is the prime dinner/ coffee & nightlife spot for this area. It has a great setup and always quite busy, especially at night time and public holidays. We are central to this little commercial area.

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Watching over the quiet bay with sailing vessels moored haphazardly you instantly get a sense of calmness. Notice the straight lines of the night lighting off the headland in one of the photos. Lots of elderly people live here and a significant quantity of young families come here to visit, as it offers the best walking areas and sandy areas and gentle swimming for toddlers and the like. It is the perfect spot for walking or fitness activities. Property here is quite valuable adjacent to the coast and most of the beach shacks have disappeared by replacement, although a few blocks back from the bay they still exist and a few are under major renovation.

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Shoal Bay is only 2.5klms wide from the Nelson Bay Lighthouse (Nelson Head) in the West and the Eastern headland supporting the old World War 2 naval defence rock forts at the ocean entrance, just passed the Tomaree Lodge on Tomaree Head. Tomaree Lodge is a vacated nursing home now used to accommodate a few Parks workers, etc managing the Tomaree Parklands (National Park). This 2.5klms stretch allows a full pathway for walkers and cycle riders along the water’s edge with outdoor bench seating & tables to use. If you look closely at times, you can see pods of Bottlenose dolphins and porpoises, coming close to shore. Nothing seems to disrupt them, even with the splashes from swimmers and toddlers enjoying the 100mm bay waves. Surfs up!! Lol.

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Unfortunately, the best attraction here is the Tomaree Summit Walk at the headland which is a Gradient 3 trek (Medium) to walk up and look back to a 360° view, mainly to Fingal Bay & Nelson Bay/ Salamander Bay. This walk is barricaded now due to the enormous volumes of rain this region experienced from January to March this year. Over a metre plus of rain water fell here in short bursts causing major erosion, land slippage and tree ‘avalanches’. One photo here shows the volume of water that came from behind and entered the Lodge sheds, smashing the doors out below the Tomaree Summit Walk. Not sure when this walk will re-open as it will take major restoration. I was looking forward to wearing my trek gear again and walking the trek frequently and to take the off shoot down to the War Bunkers on the other side (ocean). To keep our exercise going we walk around 5-6klms each day but it’s not that motivating walking virtually the same coastal path and suburban streets. It also serves the purpose of filling in the day.

Weekends and public holidays are exceptionally busy here and parking is a premium along Shoal Bay Road but keeps the ‘entertainment’ in car & people watching. Are you getting the drift of how quiet it can get? We are balcony viewing for any action. Lol!! Major shopping is done in Salamander Bay (Mall Shopping) and a slightly lesser street shopping in Nelson’s Bay. My Uncle Don lived his best retiring years here at Soldier’s Point Caravan Park and he loved the people and area fondly. He would walk across the road to play his beloved lawn bowls and win the odd meat raffle. Sadly, I never got to visit him here and cook up his meat winnings.

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Over the days we are both struggling in what to do to keep active. You can only sit around and read, sunbake and write travel blogs for so long. We are using every opportunity to have good dinners and sometimes that is eating out which is a bit limited here. My sit-in friend cooked up an amazing Salmon meal on a Sweet Potato base one night, purchasing the goods from Salamander Mall. Yummo!! Our apartment only has a kitchenette so it’s a bit of a struggle and you have to be very careful not to set off the fire alarms here or your holiday becomes extra expensive. The Fire Brigade call out is around $1,250.

These apartments retail around $160 on a good deal to the normal $300 a night, depending upon bedroom numbers, season peaks & off-peaks, etc. Belonging to The Wyndham Group my room averages out at around $127/ night all up taking in the formula but I don’t shell out this cost every time, as I’m an “Owner” whereby I have paid over time to get 33,000 points annually. This holiday takes 29,750 of my points. My left-over points accrue for a max 2 yrs. Come this September I get another 33,000 points to book further time away. I do have a monthly levy to pay for apartment maintenance costs, etc though, but it ensures I have holidays & good ones too.

One day we decided to travel to Newcastle CBD river & ocean foreshore for a walk around. The trip via the coast road is only 63klms/ 1 hour away so not too hard. Just before entering the true Newcastle, we crossover 2 bridges and transverse along the wharf setup showing enormous loading plants for grain & coal. Ocean tankers and the equipment were huge!! The Newcastle Coal wharf is the largest coal export terminal in the world so it is impressive.

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Getting into the CBD was so easy compared to other major cities. We found free parking at the headland and walked most of the headland walk along the mouth of the Hunter River where the giant coal and grain tankers enter & depart. We were walking into a strong headwind and the temptation was to great, so we took the easy option at the half-way mark and returned for a well-earned coffee break and a late breakfast. We walked about 2klms all up just to find a decent sunny outlook café and that was found high on the road opposite Newcastle Beach at the Estabar Café on Shortland Esplanade.

We walked around after for about an hour, saw nothing special, apart from the Light Rail Infrastructure and surprisingly we headed back to Shoal Bay seemingly slightly unimpressed on the lack of attractions. We were back by 1pm. Go Figure! Newcastle is basically a very large town .. not a city in the full statement.

After a few more days of lounging, I thought I would give my friend a few days grace for her own space and chill out time. It can be quite confining in an apartment. I was hoping I could meet up with another cousin living in Newcastle but that was not meant to be. On Thursday (our 6^th day), I booked an inner-city hotel (not cheap either of course) and caught a 2pm connecting bus right out the front of the Wyndham Ramada and it dropped me off at the Newcastle Interchange for a miserly $6, 90mins later. I walked 100m and travelled the Light Rail for 2 stops as my Clarendon Hotel was located adjacent to the Civic Station which is the city council sector and the Civic Theatre. The bus & rail have a credit card system, tap on/ tap off which is fantastic and easy but the locals use an Opal Card for regular use. My Light rail cost was $1.. Wow!

Thursday night, after check-in I went walking for food and a quiet beer. I walked West as nothing was showing up on Google Maps so it was virtually flip a coin decision. My 2^nd Eldest son, Matt, rang whilst walking and still found nothing in the 25mins I spent on the phone. It was a great chat, thanks Matt. I finally found a place after walking through some unlit streets (mugging paradise I think) somehow finding my way back to a place when Matt first phoned. I did a large loop coming to rest at The Newy Burger on Hunter St, a hundred plus metres from my Clarendon Hotel. I took the hint and entered and ordered a very spicy Southern Fried Chicken Burger with a beer. The beer schooner was just enough to quell the fire and spice of the chicken.

The next morning, I figured heading East to get the morning sun and surely there will be a brekky café nearing the beach area. It’s a normal business day and surprisingly, there is hardly a soul about .. is there another COVID lockdown I don’t know about? Nearing the beachside I only found one café well occupied but the cold wind tunnel affect and lack of direct sun warmth was not for me. I kept walking further up the steep hill to the South … & came across the same café my friend I spent at a few days prior (Estabar) but wanted to see what the next-door café was like; plus, they had better seating on the footpath dining.

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I certainly wasn’t disappointed. What a great café, Liquid Gold Beach Café was. Exceptional staff and service and the most heavenly coffee I have had for ages .. & I mean ages!!! They were so helpful too in explaining the local area setup and facilities. The Acai Bowl was also excellent. Well worth the visit. They are located on the street above Newcastle Beach called Shortland Esplanade.

Walking further South along the coast pathway I saw much more of the aggressive coastal waters and rockcliffs from a high view of about 100m, several parks and nature areas protected by the local council. Below the roadway the council is reclaiming more of the ocean rockshelf for more community activity and access and construction is well underway. Keeping to the coast road I came across the Memorial Walk (Anzac Memorial Bridge), a sky elevated bridge pathway linking up the next headland. It was dedicated to our World War 1 Veterans. The walkway was opened the eve of Anzac Day 24^th April 2015 and coinciding with the opening of the Newcastle BHP Steelworks in 1915. A lot of people gather daily to view the ocean on this walkway and you get a great view of the city scape and over to the tanker wharves to the North and the surfing beach below. I showed some viewers the pod of some 30+ dolphins below where it was a case of people looking .. but not really seeing all the beauty below.

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I was after a good shopping centre for some purchases I desperately needed (not much available in Yamba), so I kept walking South & turning right into Parkway Av towards Junction Fair, being the closest according to my phone map. This is an upmarket area with very large houses and as you can see in a photo, I came across a replica style Mexican House, complete with mounted cannons, window barriers, a very large typical Mexican door and a lot of security to boot. I sneaked a photo out of camera range in case I was found out. This house was a stand-out, like a red flag and so different to any other street houses.

Junction Fair turned out to be another satellite shopping centre with nothing much to offer. My next attack would be to venture further out into the suburbs so I screened the nearest bus station and picked the route to Charlestown via Kotara. My luck returned when the bus pulled up outside the Kotara Westfield Shopping Centre. Now this is more like it!!! I spent hours here, having a well-earned lunch, buying some essential goods and writing more of my blogs relaxing and people watching. Sitting down, a very old man was struggling with his walking cane and trying to put his foot long Subway into his shopping bag. It seemed obvious he was going to store this at home & for future meals. He was short of a good meal and you could tell he was doing it tough. I offered my table and he was most gratified for the assistance. I tried several ways to buy him a coffee or similar but he was most proud, so I respected that and didn’t want to over force my gesture and he left with a very gracious smile.

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Again, I caught the bus back to Newcastle CBD and seeing the former Newcastle City Council building structure (round white building) I decided to get off earlier than expected. Walking about 2 blocks to my hotel I walked past a unique place called the Foghorn Brewing Co. Yay! .. I have found tonight’s eating place, not far from my hotel. I checked back into my room and unloaded my daypack and sat back for a quick recovery and then ventured back to the Foghorn Brewery (Newcastle’s only on-site brewery eatery).

I arrived at peak time and it was completely full. Buzzing! Within a few minutes, a vibrant young lady, Halle appeared and instantly I was most welcomed. She arranged for me to share a high table with other diners and showed me how this place operates and menu choices. She was superb and kept checking on me through the night. In her break she spent time with me, talking about anything plus my travel experiences. We just clicked!! It was fantastic to see such a young person (18) being super-efficient, thoughtful, vibrant and doing such a wonderful job, especially when the place was packed. She even thanked me for my time and said good-bye when her shift was over. We could have talked for hours. Halle loved my Wobbly Chook Brewing Co T shirt I was wearing too. I’m sure the other staff and managers saw my cousin’s brewery T shirt too. It will open in July this year. I even provided my super feedback of Halle and the brewery to the Foghorn website the next morning I was so impressed. I was basically the last to leave the premises too.

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The next morning, I checked out of the Clarendon Hotel and had brekky at The Blue Door Café in the adjacent arcade whilst families were enjoying the pop-up putt-putt venue with Disney characters. Such a great family outing. Caught the Light Rail again to the bus interchange and waited for my Shoal Bay/ Fingal Bay 130 bus to get me back there around noon. My friend did miss me but enjoyed the serenity of clear space for those 2 days and I could tell she was much more relaxed. It usually takes a week plus for anyone to start unwinding from their working life.

The rest of our stay was easier and I spent more time at the SBCC to hang out, people watch and travel blog. We came to the decision to return to Grafton earlier to enable my friend more time to get things sorted at her home. It didn’t bother me as I had no urgency to be anywhere. We broke our road trip at Bulahdelah and the breakfast and coffee at Café on Main, Stroud St, was absolutely divine with most of the good’s home grown or baked. A scrumptious brekky and coffee and of course I ventured back into the shop to pass on our applause to which the staff humbly accepted. Country people are just so pleasant.

It was an easy trip back in sunshine which was the complete opposite of our journey down in teeming rain. We got to see so much more from the highway. Before long we were back in Grafton and was dropped off at Market Square in the main Street, Prince Street for the Yamba 380 bus. I had to wait an hour so I perused the local market stall in Market Square. I noticed my Yamba neighbour doing her honey stall there as well. Her stock seemed to have sold well.  My bus awaits and this time it cost me $2.50. Bargain!

I’ll leave this blog here, now that I arrived safe at my new rental Yamba home. I’ll start to upload my next blog of my two Sapa Vietnam treks next.

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, especially through this COVID-19 pandemic and for 2021 to be a far better year. I do not receive any commissions &/or ‘perks’ from the above nominated businesses & locations as I am purely happy to provide the acknowledgement and connection.

I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment. My next blog/s will be more of the amazing Vietnam experiences and quite a few were life changing, & not just for me.

Live life to the most and a quote that I truly love is from Eckhart Tolle ..

“If I am not the hero of my life … who in the hell could be?”

My Vietnam Launch – Hanoi – 2018

It has come to the last day at Kaz’s Health Retreat at the Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel www.babyelephant.asia and it is a day of so many mixed emotions saying goodbye to the owners Ilana & Adam and their staff, mainly Oun Kim and to the Health Retreat participants and of course the star attraction Kaz (Karyn) herself. It was a strange goodbye as we shared a tut-tut to the Siem Reap International Airport (some 15mins) knowing our respective planes are only a couple of hours apart. Again, another goodbye, another welcomed hug. I am on my own again … left to listen to my mind, heart & soul trying to eliminate my anxiety and talking to myself again in amidst of new adventures and challenges. I’ll certainly miss the banter and stimulating conversation of the past week of such great humans. I won’t miss the crocodiles behind the hotel of course. Before leaving the hotel, I reconfirmed with my Hanoi hotel (Hanoi Gratitude Hotel) www.hanoigratitude.com for they are arranging a dedicated driver for the long journey from Hanoi Airport  (Noi Bai International Airport) to the Historical Centre area where the hotel is located. My landing will be around 11pm their time so having a dedicated driver is reassuring.

My last 2months backpacking ‘escape’ was primarily set for Cambodia with the focal point of staying as long as possible in Sihanoukville (more than my 2months) from my ex-girlfriend’s travel discussions with her (Dale) showing me how to travel. If you want to know more about why, how, etc on getting to this ‘escape’ situation you had best scroll down to one or two of my earliest blogs. She taught me enough that I dared to use my wings in this case and to this moment of the last fortnight or so I am again stepping well out of my comfort zone and heading for Vietnam, which was totally unplanned or expected. Yikes!!!!

A quote that I recently found and aligned myself to & truly love is from Ekhart Tolle ..

“If I am not the hero of my life … who in the hell could be?”

Leaving Siem Reap after clearing Customs & Immigration and sitting in the small lounge a bad storm is brewing, much larger than the one that caused a lightning bolt to the Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel’s roof earlier in the week (refer to previous blog). Despite this we were cleared to board the plane and we started to taxi out to the runway. Lightning all around, loud thunder is instant for it seems almost overhead. A sketchy announcement was made over the intercom but it took the hostess to confirm we are now stopping to await an opening in the storm. Our plane is sitting still … I said hello to the very young people sitting next to me again & offered some of my snacks I had plenty of, for they were shy & declined the offering with a smile. Yet, I received a “hello” in very good English and then the couple started talking to the group behind as well. I now found myself in a young group of 5 holidaying from Iceland. My first & only Icelanders I have come across. Conversations evolved magically & there was no more shyness.

Surprisingly, the plane had been sitting still for some 35mins & I was wondering if we had to go back and refuel. It’s a very long time to be sitting in a plane. Passengers kept asking the hostesses if they could use the bathroom; but they must hurry as there will be little warning for take-off. Suddenly at 35mins & without warning the plane starts full throttle and woosh!!! For we are in the air. Hope no-one was in the toilet. LOL!!! With my airport experience I have never heard of any plane sitting motionless on a runway!!! A taxiway yes (normal) .. but NEVER on a runway!!!

We arrived late at Hanoi however, the pilot stated we had made good time so not as late as it was expected. After clearing Immigration & Customs and the steely eye of the Vietnamese officer I was cleared for baggage retrieval and the search for my Limo driver. I noticed the Hanoi Airport was ultra-modern and very impressive; possibly the best I have seen to date. The Hotel Limo driver found me promptly (sent my ID photo prior) which helped & he graciously said I was late .. hint .. subtle hint.

Driving in to the city was a surprise with a well-constructed highway elevated to 2 very impressive cable bridges allowing passengers to view the city lights above the river. Very impressive at night time!! The impression of this super infrastructure forced me into thinking this part of Vietnam is decades more advanced than anywhere in Cambodia. After the bridges I was totally lost, for we are now in darker streets and very busy ones too. After a bit of winding through streets the Limo stops abruptly and the driver seems to be ejected from his seat and has my door open & the boot at the same time. I enter the hotel which looks more like a shopfront straight into Reception where I am met by Maureen, dressed in authentic Vietnam evening wear. So impressive and most polite and a bit past midnight too. My room was excellent and the sleep was amazing. I found myself just making the brekky deadline in the little dining room beyond the Reception counter after the gracious “good morning” from Maureen. It was a small buffet setup so I helped myself accordingly with the Western type menu. Maureen guided me via the city plan to the Historical Centre and the famous city lake, Hoan Kiem Lake & Park within the centre, a few city blocks away (10min walk).

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As I came closer to the lake area the footpaths and the traffic (cars & scooters) became heavier & more erratic. Hanoi is a city of 5 Million scooters in a population of 7 Million. Cars only number 500,000 according to 2017 stats. The pedestrian crossings work better than Cambodia but you still have to have your wits about you. Concentrate & keep walking; don’t stop; traffic will avoid you. One of the first things I notice is the extreme lack of English signage. I soon remember I am now in a stronger Communist country and much later I found out the Vietnamese (Government) encouraged the dislike of America since the Vietnam war, hence the US Dollar is very rarely used or mentioned. Vietnam use their own currency; The Dong. I was blessed in Cambodia where they predominately use the USD but now, I have to use my ANZ currency converter to rationalise the 22,000 approx Dong to the $1USD.

I headed towards the French Quarter as Maureen suggested to see the French architecture and where the French decimated the ancient pagodas, old market areas and original village structures so they could take over the ‘surrendered’ Vietnamese people. My first stop was the Hoa Lo Prison, built in 1896. The original prison covered 12,908sq metres, making it the largest prison in Indochina. Today, the prison is drastically reduced in size by only the original frontage building and courtyard and dedicated into a museum now where you will still find it very confronting. There are real-life mannequins shackled as they would in normal life there and where they sat through the day is also where they laid at night. Totally barbaric. The French were very evil then. There is also a guillotine in place where it was used quite frequently.

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This prison housed the future president, Ho Chi Minh for many years until he, & several of his followers escaped through the sewer manhole and sewer pipes in the most-smallest of places. A superhuman effort. Later on, some of his followers became his Generals, etc when Vietnam regained its independence. This prison also had writings discussing Hanoi Jane, alias Jane Fonda where she is said to have betrayed the US POWs housed here during the Vietnam War. Controversy on this continues today.  Heading away from the prison and to the Southern end of the lake I see a very impressive roundabout and French building; The Opera House or Grand Classical Music Hall, built 1911 stands before me in all its glory. A truly beautiful heritage French building.  Adjacent to the Opera House is the upmarket shopping centre, Trang Tien Plaza. I thought I would enjoy a coffee within the 5 floors of shopping but alas, I walked the entire plaza only to find on the top floor a ‘Dunkin Donuts’ as their only coffee shop. LOL!!! No Thanks. Heading back along my steps I came across another masterpiece, the Grand Catholic St Joseph’s Cathedral built 1886; the city’s oldest church with the resemblance of Notre Dame. A lot of French buildings have now become major hotels and the like.

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Walking the lake perimeter, I was able to transverse across the traditional bridge to the lake island temple Den Ngoc Son (1st photo above), located at the North end of the lake, where dozens of locals were praying and seeking solace in the landscaped garden grounds & bonsai trees set in extra-large pots. This temple uses the focus of the mineral Jade for all its healing and worshiping properties and have a large turtle in a glass tomb, but I could not find out why it is there. I suspect they are the water animal of grace and peace & there is plenty of that in this special place. The lake water is so calming too.

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After the temple I found a close location and an easy place to hover around; The Dong Kinh Nghia Thuc Square which is really a very large traffic roundabout.  At around 5pm everyday; this roundabout & the associated streets are closed to traffic and the pedestrians immediately come out in swarms. A bustling night time area with lots of activities, singing, dancing, school musicians and people mingling. Looking around I see a curved tower building suiting the roundabout shape with about 6 levels of bars and restaurants. I took the privilege of taking the open area balcony on the 4^th floor with a couple of beers & eventually a late dinner to gaze upon the activities below and start the people watching in the carnival environment. My first & second Vietnam days had certainly started well and I felt comfortable walking back to my hotel mid-evening. Surprisingly, I didn’t get lost. Point to note, the traffic doesn’t seem to ever ease and there’s always people about.

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The next day was even more amazing. After the buffet brekky I reconfirmed what the hotel had organised for me when I originally booked in Cambodia. I will be heading to Sapa/ Fansipan (NW of Vietnam, very close to the Chinese border) first for 2 nights by bus & then back to the hotel overnight then off to Halong Bay by bus again for the Bai Tua Long Bay (North of Halong Bay with almost same Latitude as Hanoi) cruise then back to Hanoi Gratitude Hotel. Once all that was finalised with Reception, I went back to the lake area to continue my French Quarter touring of the streets; this time taking a street or so earlier that brought me further away from where I was the day before. I noticed a completely different day with so many young people and couples walking the lake perimeter pathway, amongst the leafy trees and well-manicured gardens. Out of the silence, a loud whistle blared!! It was an officer of some sought, Police maybe or a local authority sternly pointing at a young couple where the young male was sitting on a park bench & a young lady lying on his lap talking to each other. They immediately sat upright and rigid. Apparently, such western ‘love’ behaviour is unacceptable in public. I was quite taken aback by this regimental approach.

That event had me walking and thinking at the same time in reflection and I accidentally went left instead of right where I found myself in the roundabout area again but being a Saturday (non-school day), it was filled with very young children, mainly in groups with chaperones, teachers or parents in sync. Suddenly, I was confronted & surrounded by a group of children (students) wishing to talk to me in English. I was asked a variety of questions like where am I from, how old am I, what do I like about Vietnam, & a hundred more questions. Each young person was very polite although mostly shy but they hung on every word I was saying. This is their main approach to learning more English than they do in school. After say, about 8 or so groups in a row I was able to become better at handling their questions, accepting the video recordings, parents and teacher’s involvements, etc; but at the now end of the day I was completely worn out. It’s tiring talking about yourself ALL day and concentrating on their needs!!! LOL!!! For all those hours I don’t think I moved more than an area of 80m2.

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Being around 5pm I sat alone on a timber low wall around a large tree to unwind and contemplate what I might like to do next. Sitting down was such a relief for it had been hours & hours involved with full-on eager children. Within about 10mins a very quietly spoken young lady asked politely if she could sit with me. Her name was Julia. She was 17 but looked 14. A slender young lady that wanted to ask me the same questions I had for most of the day. I graciously complied and I was allowed to ask questions in return. Her English & manner was excellent and the best quality conversation all day. I was in need of liquid and food and soon found out Julia had not had neither all day too. She said she will eat back at her sister’s place over an hour away on a bus. Looking across the street adjacent to the roundabout I saw a quaint little nook type shop. I asked her to trust me & sit with me while we replenished ourselves. After a while she said yes, but was extremely shy however I think she knew I needed to eat, being old, I guess. Haha!!

The quaint little shop was called The Note Coffee Shop www.thenotecoffee.com for it was literally covered in thousands of post-it notes to every spare space on the walls, counters, tables, etc from travellers all over the world over the years. I knew what to order and the lady behind the counter spent time with Julia in choosing a cake (Julia liked their appearance I think) and smoothie drink.  We sat at the ground floor window counter and started talking again where Julia explained to me this was her first smoothie & cake .. ever!!! I nearly cried on the spot! I recovered, and said she must take little draws on the straw with the smoothie otherwise you will get a ‘brain freeze’.  Her first ‘sip’ gave her a brain freeze which totally surprised her … We both laughed long & loud. What an experience for both of us. Before long she had to catch her bus but she was able to convey her school learning problems to me and I gave her some things to concentrate on, like how to breathe to avoid test stress and how to study more effectively and approach tasks & assignments, etc.  All this was totally proper so I’m sure you maybe suggesting I was one of those pathetic, vile predators on a tourist visa chatting up young girls. Rest assured I am most certainly NOT!!! While I was sitting there with Julia, we both read as many post-it notes messages which kept her English still flowing. There were so many but I had one staring me right in the face in front of me (pls see photo). It was a message I could use for my ex-gf, Dale back home “If you break someone’s heart and they still talk to you … with the same excitement and respect .. believe me, they really love you”. For clarity, she broke my heart, yet I am the one communicating with respect.

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Julia’s bus trip is well over an hour & she does this trip several times a week to learn English from tourists. Later that night Julia managed to track me down in Messenger, then Facebook which showed her resilience and commitment to learn more, much to my surprise. She immediately started on my suggestions while on the bus & when she got home & wanted to let me know how much I had done for her in just that little amount of time. She was sad that we couldn’t meet up again as I had my bus excursions happening but hoped we could meet again after them.

The next day I walked West towards the larger city lake, Ho Truc Bach which is quite a walk but not too much to see from my encounters. I noticed the single railway line crossing the street & then vanishing in between small buildings that gave the absolute minimum clearance for the train, yet pedestrians were walking down the tracks which appeared to be market stalls further on. Can’t believe the structures being so close to the line. Further on, I saw some impressive old buildings, mainly of French Colonial architecture and these became Govt buildings and military quarters but you can’t see what they actually are on Google Maps or by their respective signage being a Communist regime and very protective of their infrastructure.

On my way back to the hotel area I was heading towards the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum at the Historic Square, where his body lies in state (tomb) but this was closed, as only mornings it is open. Before reaching this Mausoleum, I saw a large open street, much like an empty highway so I thought it best to walk up the medium strip to view both sides clearly. Next minute a voice was calling out to me from the other side and a local man waving furiously. I soon learnt I had to go back to the start & cross to the other side, for it was the military parade ground which aligned the Presidential Palace and other military buildings, some with soldiers marking the gates. The man was so relieved I had obeyed instantly. I wanted to obtain reassurance I could venture further up the sidewalk before walking back to the city centre so I asked a soldier on the gate. He was very steely eyed and with a forceful gesture, much like a slap across the face ‘encouraged’ me to be silent and keep walking. I got the hint real fast! OK .. sometimes I’m a slow learner.

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I had walked about 8klms by the time I reached the City Centre again and was looking for a place to eat and lounge around when all of a sudden, I heard my name called out!! It was the young Iceland group I flew into Hanoi with. What are the chances in a city filled to the brim with people such as this? After a quick catchup (they had to be somewhere soon) we parted ways again only to cross paths a few hours later in a different part of the Quarter (suburb/ neighbourhood). Again, what are the chances? Back at my comfort roundabout I again settled for the 4^th floor bar spot for dinner and enjoyed the ambiance of carnival sounds below.

With my bus trip to Sapa early in the morning I decided to head back for a well-earned sleep but was interrupted by a street shoe repairer who noticed my joggers had sole issues. He was determined to fix them but kept avoiding the repair fee. He was full of talk but very efficient on restitching my soles. When finished (15mins) he asked for 2Million Dong as I now have ‘new’ shoes. That’s $85USD folks!!! My joggers were about 3years old but good ones. Obviously, we argued for quite some time and in the end, he was paid $10USD worth, for those 15minutes of work so in money terms he did extremely well in the exchange but he remained aggressive. I left at the first opportunity to avoid a physical confrontation that would be hard to avoid police action. I referred this to my hotel staff and they wanted me to take them to him immediately, as they were most bitter that his vile actions had a negative reflection upon their city and Vietnam. I received warnings later that the street shoe repairers are to be avoided every time. I was happy at spending the $10USD to avoid the altercation and eventually was able to gain a good sleep but the event resurfaced many times after. I detest bad humans and would have liked to take stronger action against him.

The next day I had brekky & headed to Sapa by bus. Thankfully, a driver was arranged to take me to the bus pickup which was a blessing. Sapa/ Fansipan was highly recommended by the hotel so hopefully it will all work out well. I will return to Hanoi for overnight stays in between my booked tours so there’s still lots to write about. Stay tuned. There’s more to come on Julia too. I couldn’t provide more websites to the locations above as they are all in Vietnamese with no English conversion. Sorry Guys.

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, especially through this COVID-19 pandemic of 2020. I do not receive any commissions &/or ‘perks’ from the above nominated businesses & locations as I am purely happy to provide the acknowledgement and connection.

I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment. My next blog/s will be the continuous amazing Vietnam experiences and quite a few were life changing, & not just for me.

Cambodia – Phnom Pehn to Siem Reap & Beyond – 2018 Part 2

Well, I have landed here in Siem Reap Cambodia and staying at The Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel www.babyelephant.asia for my cousin’s wife Kaz (Karyn) Australian Health Retreat for a week (pls refer to previous blogs) before heading off to Hanoi Vietnam for more backpacking. I enjoyed instant resort living and friendly acceptance from everyone like a family or community bond which I had primarily ‘lost’ for the last 2months of backpacking alone throughout Cambodia so the following is how most of this ‘healthier’ week panned out. As a quick overview, Kaz is one of those extra special people who accepts you wholeheartedly, makes you inclusive to the group, takes the time to explain what is happening/ planned and does everything in a positive manner. She is a lady of confidence but knows when to be the leader and the humour/ banter is overflowing. She is never short of a conversation and actually listens to you in the feedback. You cannot help but reciprocate in following her life principles and that is what makes the added bonus of this Health Retreat. Kaz also knows how to party!! She is sadly missed by the countless many that knew her.

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Being the sole male & honorary invitee, I was allowed to sleep in a bit more each day than the ladies group but I couldn’t miss their group breakfast which was a real daily highlight. The staff, with Oun Kim at Reception provided the most welcoming of each morning, followed by the health retreat participants with the ringleader Kaz in fine voice and high motivation. Nothing but positives existed. The food and chatter were superb each morning. The ladies had already completed their early morning yoga class before breakfast and were extra keen for the journey to the local beauty parlour for their respective treatments of massages, facials, foot rubs, etc. I found it rather weird to have a yoga & meditation class on the rear upper balcony overlooking the rear neighbour’s property of a large crocodile farm. I kid you not!! Some 30+ reptiles by my count at the rear of a house but they kept moving so my count is approximate. Lol!!! I hope this neighbourhood doesn’t experience mass flooding as I have grave concerns for the boundary fencing.

On my first day, while the ladies were out at the parlour, I started on my early blog writings out on the front porch overlooking the pool. My blog was a short one “Flying into Siem Reap”    https://bhlifestyles.travel.blog/2019/01/28/flying-into-siem-reap-international-airport-cambodia-2018/ where I wrote on my experiences and what to be aware of and how best to take the advantages when entering the terminal from the tarmac. It is an International Airport so there is a bit of wrangling to get around the ‘system’. Within a few hours of writing this a lady on holidays at the Baby Elephant was saying her fiancé is hesitant of flying in to see her and worried about the airport. Reception printed my blog and she loved it and reported back saying she sent it to her fiancé and he is on his way on the next flight. What an instant reward of putting things in writing. You never know who you can inadvertently help by knowing what is happening in your surrounds. Staying in The Present, remember?

During this time of computer writing Ilana (co-owner & manager) was also on her computer in the adjacent outdoor seating hut managing the hotel daily operations and we both could see the storm brewing to another level. The ladies surely would not be coming back though this darkness; mind you, this is around mid-day. Without warning the lightning started with immediate thunder. Bang!!!!!!!! A bolt of lightning hit the roof of the hotel immediately above my head with roof tile pieces crashing near my feet. Ilana & I both jumped to our feet & ‘froze’ momentarily. Ilana stayed with her laptop with my assurance as I ran upstairs and checked things out. Luckily, the lightning hit the section of roof within the Plant Room area so the rainwater entering is not causing problems to habitable rooms, adjacent and below. The smell of smoke and of metal ‘burning’ was clearly evident however no flames present, as there were no timber in this location, but a very large hole in the roof with rain entering. This is now the 4^th time I have been within 20m of a lightning strike; certainly not looking for a 5^th! I struggle to explain to people on what it is like to be so close to that form of energy. I was able to report back to Ilana that there was no catastrophe enfolding structurally. However, it was soon realised about 6 TVs, WiFi, etc were severely compromised (ruined). Technical repairs were carried out the next day and TVs ordered, along with the roof repairs. Another blow to their budget as insurance doesn’t really apply in Cambodia. When the ladies returned from their pleasure outing, they spoke of the storm but were more shocked to see the roof parts still on the entry path and glad they dodged that bullet.

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Over the next few days, the yoga sessions, pool aerobics (Jay Sapphire, an Aussie Ex-pat fitness and health guru was our instructor), cooking classes & the like unfolded, along with “Happy Hour”, a walk to Pub Street to try the cocktails at Kaz’s favourite spot, The Red Piano https://redpianocambodia.com   I had a few “Tomb Raiders” not knowing the high alcohol content with Michelle (we still talk about these). Kaz stuck to her one rum drink & I think Michelle finished that off too! When the ladies, now including Louise & her daughter Charise (Ex-pats living in Singapore) took to the streets to obtain their cooking ingredients for their cooking class I snuck away with a Tut-tut to the Angkor Panorama Museum, built in 2007. What an amazing place!! A definite must see, although the entry fee is around $32USD including a guide it will surpass your expectations. The obvious highlight is “The Painting”. First, you are directed to the 80seat theatre for the 10minute Khmer orientation, then you can stroll by yourself to overlook the numerous scaled models of some 12 temples in the Siem Reap region including the massive Angkor Wat. These models are insane and you can take photos once you recover from the excellent detail of these models. It certainly was an impressive display.

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After your scaled model stroll, you are provided an assigned guide to take you to the central platform of “The Painting”, a panoramic masterpiece. The guide provides the English commentary and ensures NO photos are taken. You enter a hallway doorway and do a large spiral enclosed rampway to a central platform much like a movie theatre. Luckily, I went later in the day therefore, there were only a couple of people to share with in the viewing platform. The museum is usually jammed packed. Once you reach the central platform your eyes follow the finger pointing of the guide instructing you to the starting point; then you are left speechless with what your eyes are trying to absorb. “The Painting” is a complete circular flowing mural of immense size of some 30m high with a room diameter of some 40m. A massive 360° 3D mural! The starting point is The Cambodia/ Vietnam War around 900AD flowing then into temple constructions with elephants, river barges and the population bringing the large stones from a quarry some 40klms away from the construction zones and then into typical Khmer village life then into a life with everyone living in harmony and well-being (a celebration of life).

From the platform edge you look slightly down to see large rocks, real vegetation and the like providing the real imagery for the painting behind. A dreamlike masterpiece where it took some 43 professional paint artists 16months to complete. The painting had so much detail there are some 45,000 different human faces/ bodies within it, let alone the numerous wildlife. The war section at the start of the painting is very graphic of the fierce battle. To take photos is highly offensive and penalties apply if you dare to disobey or show little respect. A very clear warning. There was so much detail you could look for ages and a feeling of sadness to depart this ‘living’ historical masterpiece. Apologies … NO PHOTOS!!! Arrghh!!!

I had best call it a day seeing my trusted tut-tut driver happily waited for me outside and I was truly feeling guilty of the time used. I made sure he was rewarded and gave him an early mark by dropping me off at Pub Street to stroll the marketplace before walking back to the Baby Elephant. On the way I remembered to pick up my laundry (timely) from the old sweetie working long hours at her laundromat located at the hotel laneway intersection. I always gave her more money than she asked for. She was amazing and so thankful.

Meeting up with the group at the hotel we all agreed to have dinner quickly & hit the Happy Hour hard knowing we will be required to survive another Jay aerobic pool workout (1hr full on) in the morning and after the Ladies’ yoga class. We each had a chat on what each of us did for the day and my museum talk was well received and took a couple of scotches too!

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The next day, after the Jay aquarobics workout, the ladies rushed to the beauty parlour once again for the pampering session and then returned to undertake the cooking class at the hotel where there was an introduction and then an excursion via tut-tuts to local markets and merchants to source and procure the required goods for the menu class after lunch. In the meantime, I opted out and took the opportunity of meeting up with Jay again on the other side of town for a coffee & his timely info for my upcoming tour through Vietnam. He was full of Vietnam travel recommendations and I was so thankful for his knowledge and guidance. With hours on hand I took the ‘long’ road back to the hotel, stopping at places to see like Wat Preah Prom Rath near the river with Buddhist Temple, pagodas & very impressive gardens and hard landscaping. A place of calmness and soothing meditation feels.

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Again, we chat within the group of today’s activities by the pool in combination with the ladies results of today’s cooking masterpieces facilitated by the Baby Elephant’s Head Chef and trainee chefs. I must say the results were superb and obviously very healthy. A night swim was also on order. I’m surely enjoying this paradise.

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The next day Kaz had arranged a full-on day of adventure. We started at the other side of Siem Reap to a nearby village school managed by a young Australian lady (Principal) with volunteer teachers and some very small backing from the Cambodian Govt. The ABC & Rice school https://www.abcrice.org   is rather medium in size but very impressive and effective for the village size. There were 4 young French Uni students working as part of their scholarship to help set the curriculum and school reviews and strategies. The Principal confirmed these ladies have done about 12mths work in less than a month & still have a month to go in their residency. Their scholarship is extremely valuable for these schools. Some classes and school buildings are also privately funded by previous travellers and teachers, etc. We noticed 2 classrooms donated by a Norwegian & Swedish lady. The school has a rice bribery system going that if the student (Child) attends all month then the parents get rewarded in rice …. and they are extremely grateful for the rice, such is their hardship. Normally the child/ children are sent off to work or beg at a very early age to keep the family viable. The older students eventually get accepted into the Cambodian Public School system by achieving graduation standards and then their higher education escalates. Without these grass roots schools there would be almost nothing for villages like these for education and change. A very impressive achievement for this struggling village. So proud to be an Australian and seeing what our country people are achieving overseas. Our unsung heroes.

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On our way back we called into some disability workshops and their merchandising stores and these were very impressive with pottery, sewing, etc.  We also drove past some unusual but recognisable icons out the front of a commercial market which is an added bonus when viewing the street landscapes. Back to the Hotel for a swim, shower & dinner & then a mystery outing Kaz had arranged to see the local circus school, Phare – The Cambodia Circus https://pharecircus.org to show off their skills and acts. It was about a 15min tut-tut drive and the attendance was a full house. They even had their own merchandise store. Even though it is a circus school their mastery was amazing and students have gained places in circus events around the world. Some 150+ graduates to date. I was truly amazed with the whole show and their humility/ endurance & skills. This event was certainly not expected to my understanding of what Siem Reap offers. A very welcomed treat.

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Our last major day excursion provided by Kaz was to visit the Kbal Spean waterfalls (NNE of Siem Reap in the Phnom Kulen National Park https://www.siemreap.net/visit/attractions/sightseeing/phnom-kulen ) where it provides the earliest recorded first Budda/ Khmer temple in 11^th Century. The creek ‘river’ has stone carvings in rock riverbed called Linga where it forms into holy water lapping over the shallow rockbed. This creek then winds quickly around to a few lagoons then into a 30m waterfall. Unfortunately, our visit coincided with a rare religious holiday & we had to share this special place with more than a thousand citizens, so no waterfall swim for us but a well-earned picnic. I don’t know if the lagoons still held holy water .. if you know what I mean? Adjacent to the waterfall area was the first population ‘village’ set amongst enormous rocks, caves & the like. A very sacred ground and on top of one of these rocks was a temple with a laying down Buddha of some 8m in length. Apparently, many thousands lived in & around this landscape with a range of huts, caves, etc during its prime era. It was an amazing experience to wander the same steps of a lost civilisation in the same respect of Angkor Wat & the other temples.

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This Kbal Spean location is a bit of a drive however, there is a bit of countryside to view and we also had a few stops to see the crazy varieties of bananas (pronounced Bananan … no ‘r’ sound). We also had a glancing view of where the rocks were quarried from to create Angkor Wat & other temples constructed some 40klms away. Certainly, an amazing task without the machinery of today.

Nearing Siem Reap, but still away to go we called into the confronting Landmine Museum https://www.cambodialandminemuseum.org created by an ex-soldier Aki Ra, who dedicated his post war life to searching, recording & dismantling the abhorrent landmines installed by the vile Khmer Rouge forces. Years later, upon clearing thousands of mines a Japanese journalist called him Aki Ra (a brave Japanese historical name) and it was far better than the numerous adopted names he was given, so he politely took it. He was enforced into the war when the Khmer Rouge gave him his first gun at 10yrs of age and was also made to install landmines (children were expendable). He was told his parents died when he was 5 but no proof was ever provided of that. There are still millions of landmines uncovered throughout Cambodia. He has founded this museum and is world recognised for his work on landmines. He worked for (United Nations – UNTAC) clearing mines & that’s when it all started. The locals have a saying “watch out for the flying buffalo” as they tread on landmines more often than people. The devastation, death & maimed injury is beyond comprehension and landmines are really the most wicked and cowardly method of human conflict and it was really brought to life via Princess Diana as one of her life missions. Aki Ra is certainly a hero in many forms.

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It had been a long day but Happy Hour provided a new form of energy and we all extended our hours into the night with great banter and relaxation of harmony; for tomorrow is the checking out day where Kaz & the group return to Australia and Singapore & I fly out alone to Hanoi Vietnam. It is with great sadness this departing moment was the 3^rd last time we would see each other but each time was ultra-rewarding and not a moment lost. A full file of memories; so many heartfelt thanks Karyn (Kaz).

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, specially through this COVID-19 pandemic of 2020. I do not receive any commissions &/or ‘perks’ from the above nominated businesses & locations as I am purely happy to provide the acknowledgement and connection.

I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment. My next blog/s will be the amazing Vietnam experiences and quite a few were life changing, & not just for me.

Live life to the most as Kaz did often for a quote that I truly love is from Ekhart Tolle ..

“If I am not the hero of my life … who in the hell could be?”

Cambodia – Phnom Pehn to Siem Reap & Beyond – 2018 Part 1

Following on from my last two blogs where I dedicated the Cambodian Islands blog to my cousin and his wife; the updated news on my cousin’s wife Kaz (Karyn) has been most tragic with her passing sadly 17^th Oct 2020 before she could return to her hometown of Grafton NSW Australia. In dedication to her memory; my blog below is timely in that I get to spend a week with her at Siem Reap for her planned Health Retreat in 2018. With COVID-19 restrictions her family & limited friends celebrated her memorial 14^th November 2020. Karyn was only 57yrs old. Her husband Michael, my cousin is fighting the good fight but is terminal as well.

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In addition; for those that would like to view my absolute Bible on Cancer I wholeheartedly recommend a book “Cancer; Why We are Dying to Know the Truth” by Philip Day from www.credence.org  This book reveals the very essence of Cancer from early days and the main points why we are succumbing to this awful disease and ways to address it. It is surely the best resource I am aware of in all the years of seeking out the truths. I receive no commission/s from any of my recommendations. It is my way of giving back with knowledge found.

From my last blog I spent 6hrs travelling by bus from Sihanoukville to Phnom Pehn, the capital of Cambodia thinking mostly of my youngest brother, Rod who past the year prior on this day a year earlier. My Phnom Pehn visit is to see a few tourist things I could not see during my last visit plus to sort out a few personal goals that involve hopefully changing people’s lives so that part is private. Part of my life mantra is to ‘make a difference’; so hopefully I can fulfil that in this visit. For more information on my previous visit to Phnom Pehn please refer to a previous blog; Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 4 – Phnom Penh – Cambodia.

I arrived at Phnom Pehn City Centre at 2.30pm amongst massive traffic and a thunderstorm (of course, almost daily now) and straight into a tut-tut to my Billabong Hostel where Janny (Manager) & staff remembered me immediately. Is that a good sign … or a bad sign? Turned out to be a good sign … whew!! They had my room ready and it was an instant chill out time. I highly recommend the Billabong Hostel (backpacker style hostel & appropriate pricing) with a good range of dorms and private rooms with ensuite and a pool, etc.

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Can’t explain this but I slept in till 9.20am!! Somehow my body & ‘brain’ must of needed this … certainly not a beauty sleep  .. OK? In hindsight it might have been the hot shower I had before bed as it was my first hot one for some 24 nights. I certainly dislike cold showers but one must toughen up and shower often, otherwise you can easily offend people from a distance if you know what I mean. Thank God the in-house café still had brekky till 11am. I had to catchup on some computer stuff so I soaked up the energy of the backpackers enjoying the pool and various alcohol drinks on the large pool deck. It was a morning of great spirits.

Being some 10mins from the old city area by tut-tut I decided to walk it and take in the normal city/ suburb living, seeing the merchants and stores along the way. The walk was so diverse in what type of stores and services with scooter/ mechanical workshops, cafes and just about everything you could imagine or need. Some of the local people smiled and waved while others were stern-faced city affected dwellers who seemed to not give anyone the time of day. I had a few missions to sort out so I needed Google Maps to get me around however, the app was playing up like my last visit. My frustrations were escalating as the app was taking me all over the place and somewhat in meandering circles. The hours I ‘wasted’ before I could complete my tasks leaving me less time to soak in the environment and culture.

Calling it almost a day, the sun was setting I ended at the Vattanac Capital Building; must be the highest tower structure in Phnom Pehn @ 187.3m/ 39 storey with a jutting out Sky Deck. It won an architectural award in 2012. I thought a reward would be to see the city sprawl and enjoy a $7USD beer in a luxury lounge with a view before heading back to my hostel.

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Taking the lift, I shared it with a family. The father was of Indian descent and the mother was a younger English woman. They had a young son about 9yrs old and they were taking the father’s mother (wheelchair bound) to a celebratory dinner at an aloof restaurant on the highest above skyline level. The reason for raising this commentary is that I found it confronting especially on what I will now describe. The family were immaculately dressed, obviously very wealthy. I smiled and parted their company as they entered the restaurant while I took to the large glass panels to view the skyline and getting my geographical boundaries/ compass aligned. I saw a section of the city I had wished I knew beforehand. It was the newer part and seemed like a great place to inspect viewing in the distance near the river. It is also where the Australian & other embassies are located.

Walking back on my steps I noticed the young mother with her son sitting at a high bar table. She caught my eye so I walked over & said “hello again”.  We talked openly and was asked to sit at the other chair opposite to her & her son. They were sitting at the table because the restaurant excluded their son as they do not cater for children and therefore no entry for under 18yrs of age. The Father/ husband continued with his Mother for dinner and ushered his wife out to stay with their son until they were finished. I was gob smacked to say the least. How abhorrent!!! Again, we talked for some 40minutes plus without any apprehension however the son remained somewhat sheepish as expected for a well-controlled & mannered child. I managed to make her laugh & smile and talked about both our travel experiences, life, etc to take away the time and loneliness frustrations. She was most thankful I stayed with her; and I left before the father ventured out. He will take them elsewhere to have dinner (probably a take away). I had to leave so as not to confront the selfish uncaring father/ husband. I didn’t even wish to partake in my $7USD beer either, such was my disgust however, I felt good that I helped someone through a terrible and awkward time. I hope the lady & her son are doing OK.

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It was now dark and not a tut-tut in sight so I continued to walk back towards my Billabong Hostel. Thankfully, my memory served me well to remember the streets back without referring to the faulty Google Maps. Arriving at the hostel I was still able to order dinner and check my phone to confirm I had walked almost 17klms!! Wow!!! The beers were a real reward and so was the extra hot shower. No muscle cramps either. Yay … knowing I was a bit low on Magnesium intake as well.

The next day it rained all day however I managed to get my personal goal sorted and improved a person/s life so all is good with the universe. I wish I could tell you more but it’s private and very confronting for print but rest assured everything was perfectly legal; just private. I hung around the pool area most of the afternoon and an early night to ensure I awake at 6am to take a pre-ordered tut-tut (reception booked it for me) to the airport. Phnom Pehn was quite easy to say good-bye to so I’d say that’s natural for a capital city feel and a flying visit (excuse the pun). I don’t mind airports as such, always like to be early for flights, get through Immigration/ Customs, etc and to see the buzz in people. I like to people watch … & especially over a hot coffee. I also have a background working at The Sydney Airport constructing taxiways, runways and redevelopment of the International Terminal Building.

My flight to Siem Reap was on time and $57USD by the airline Bassaka Air and only took 32minutes. We reached the flight height and straight away descended, much like a rainbow flight path. So much better than a 6hour drive or 8hrs bus trip. The tut-tut ride-in was different to my initial arrival in early April (2 months ago) where I used a dedicated tour driver and escort. I have no idea where I am going, so I’m placing a lot of trust into my tut-tut operator. After about 20mins or so we take a hard-left turn into a very narrow dirt lane that is in need of decent repair, mainly for drainage. This laneway ‘road’ was uninspiring and a bit of anxiety was setting in wondering where in the heck am, I going. With a sudden stop and to my relief I am shown the wall signage and walk-in garden entrance to The Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel. “Whew”!! The resort Kaz (Karyn) had arranged for me.

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My arrival and welcoming were amazing and it felt like royalty. The Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel was awarded the TripAdvisor’s Number 9 Bargain Hotel in the World 2018 with 25 air conditioned rooms, restaurant, bar and located just 1.1klms from Pub Street & the City Centre and 15minutes from the famous World Heritage Site, Angkor Wat temple. Our Kim (a young local lady, also featured in photos on their website) was the receptionist and she showed amazing professionalism and warmth checking me in and to see my room in brilliant presentation was quite a surprise! In Cambodia they say their Surname first. I had a bit of time to settle in, as most of the Health Retreat participants (women) had already arrived and headed off to the local foot & body massage parlor down towards the main road to start off their ‘therapy’. I was told that parlor will be used quite often.

The Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel was co-founded, owned & operated by Aussie ex-pats (Ilana Tulloch & Adam Scott … married) starting originally with Ilana’s mother, Carmel www.babyelephant.asia  Over time they managed to buy the neighbour’s place and converted it to another hotel wing and removed the fence in between which opened up to a better courtyard and serenity area. Honestly, you would not believe what these two wonderful people have achieved for Siem Reap. They have provided in-house & external traineeships with other employments for the locals, helped other entrepreneurs, local schools and commerce organisations, cooking seminars and the list goes on. Post Blog: The Baby Elephant just celebrated their 5^th year anniversary along with Ilana being recognised as one of the Top 20 Social Entrepreneurs in ASEAN2020.

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I was happy to stay beside the pool and talk to the staff and getting to know the new star attraction, Lenny, a Pomeranian puppy belonging to Ilana waiting for the rumble of the surge of Health retreaters. I didn’t have to wait long for the hotel uses two dedicated Tut-Tut operators and they know how to ramp in & park within the courtyard. The voices were nearing and coming in loud, energetic and alive!! A hearty “hello” and long hugs from Kaz (Karyn) and meeting another Australian, Michelle. Is it wrong to say all that great noise was from just 2 women? They were excitement plus. Later on, we thoroughly enjoyed ‘Happy Hour’ .. the ladies with their varying cocktails & I with my scotch. What a great day & night overlooking the pool and taking in the luminous lighting of the pool and adjacent walls. The other participants, Louise and her daughter Charise arrive tomorrow from Singapore (Ex-pats).

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Kaz was the Director/ Owner at Real Food Real Weightloss (RFRW) & worked also at Cassia Wellness Clinic in Australia and from all these client bases she arranges for these international health retreats to hone in and reward the participants with what another world offers. Certainly, a caring and wonderful health professional entrepreneur that puts a lot of energy into these international retreats. I’m feeling blessed to be invited, welcomed, and with little notice.

I’ll end this blog here so I can start afresh for Part 2 on the week with Kaz & Co on a great Siem Reap Health Retreat and some of my escape free time. Lol!!!!

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, specially through this COVID-19 pandemic of 2020. I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment. My next blog/s will be the amazing Vietnam experiences and quite a few were life changing.

Live life to the ‘mostest’ as Kaz did often & encouraged everyone else to be so.

Cambodian Islands Departure – Sihanoukville & Beyond – 2018

Following on from my last Part 8 blog where I dedicated the Island blog to my cousin and his wife the updated news on my cousin’s wife Kaz (Karyn) has been most tragic with her passing sadly before she could return to her hometown of Grafton NSW Australia. She had made it close by checking into Maclean Hospital some 23 miles from home.  Ashamedly, there was no hospital bed for her at Grafton. My words are never enough and with this COVID-19 fiasco & unbelievable politics still tearing into people’s lives I am unable to provide hugs and be present with Michael & family during this very sad time. Prayers and thoughts abound. Live life to the most as Kaz did often. The testimonies that flowed immediately, and for more than a week after her passing is a true testimony to the life and love she gave and passed onto so many.

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From my last blog (Part 8) I was heading towards Sihanoukville’s pier (8^th May) via a speedy island ferry after some 8 nights in 3 island locations enjoying a variety of paradise influences, mostly natural (people and environment) and with my mind senses of being mainly alone. My main jolt of reality was approaching the confronting skyrise structures of ugly casinos blanketing the shoreline. Currently (2018), some 34 mega-casinos are in construction and another 16 are ready for approval to start, thus making a total soon of about 87 operating casinos; all with virtually no community infrastructure afforded to cope with these giants. All this in a city region of some 900,000 residents.

My first port of call (excuse the pun .. sea ferry talk) was straight off the pier to the left to find my usual window bench table at the Turkish Bar Café with a cold beer & watching mostly other backpackers arriving and leaving the pier before I headed up Serendipity Street hill to my next hotel stay at Mick & Craig’s Guesthouse quite near the large & famous Golden Lions roundabout. Lots of backpackers must of forgotten their sunscreen looking at their lobster look skin .. Ouch!!

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Reaching the top of the hill I am reminded of the great supermarket on the left for critical supplies I’m in need of and almost next door my favourite haunt .. The Big Easy; but first I’ll cross the road and pick up my 6month Cambodia extended visa and my passport at the Travel Agent shop (10days for processing). It is a very satisfying experience to once gain possession of one’s passport and I must have it for checking in to my hotel. After a few minutes the lady finally found it in an unlocked desk drawer with about 20 other passports. Gobsmacked on this lack of security! It was still playing on my mind crossing the road in between the crazy traffic and Tuk-Tuks.

Checking into Mick & Craig’s Guesthouse was rather awkward but like everything in Cambodia, once you smile back the world gets sorted. The guesthouse is owned by Australian ex-pats but they have let it slide over the years on first looks however, location, location, location. After paying the $5USD deposit on my towel, the receptionist lady showed me to my ground floor room (Hostel was in the 2^nd floor building). OMG!!! That’s different!!! I have a large tree stump in my patio to which I have to step around to access the front door. My room is fully taken up by the double bed and my ensuite looked reasonable, so all is good, as I have stayed in far worse … but still a cold shower. I have no TV and the ceiling fan is quiet only on one faster speed. Air conditioning was insanely expensive and only available in other rooms. Leaving my backpacks on the floor (no other option, no wardrobe, etc) I think it is time for The Big Easy respite a few doors up.

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Entering The Big Easy, a few faces remembered me and I had the rare opportunity of selecting a bar chair at the street end of the bar with only 2 other patrons present before the regulars flocked in after their respective work duties. The Aussie/ USA & English-type music was flowing through the speakers at a good volume, my first beer was cold and soothing and chilling out was almost instant. Nearing the end of my first beer (a slow drinker and not a volume drinker either) I felt a tap on my shoulder with a “Look who’s here!”. Turning around I saw my Koh Rong island Aussie friends, Hugh & Donna who had just come off the late island ferry and was heading to their hotel when they saw the friendly entry and music of The Big Easy. Hugh was desperate for a beer too (always!) & Donna not far behind Hugh.

They couldn’t believe their eyes when they saw me at the prime position of the bar. The chances of meeting up again after the islands were at ridiculous odds, so that’s the universe at work most definitely. The beers and the talks flowed like an endless tide of course. It was well into the night when they both had to leave for a late meal and sleep; for they had decided to head south early in the morning and cross into Vietnam at the southern border in a few days’ time, which I heard was a bit brave but that’s what these globe trekkers do (no fear). They will tour Vietnam completely South to North. Surprisingly they will reappear in future Vietnam blogs.

Coming straight off the island I sourced a good place to hire a scooter @ $3.70USD/ day to overcome the daily hassles of varying prices of tut-tut operators but alas they required the handover of my passport to them … That’s NOT happening!!! So off on foot again. In addition, Mick & Craig required $5USD per day just to park my scooter on the premises (footpath) if you don’t mind. The Big Easy allowed me to do it for free … but I was not prepared to hand over my passport to the hirer so I was back to the tut-tuts.

I have a daily brekky deal with Mick & Craig’s so the first few mornings I had hassles with the so-called extras and finally Craig sorted things out but far too late so The Big Easy gave me a better brekky and at a better price anyway so can’t ignore that. The best thing at having brekky at Mick & Craig’s was looking out at the busy street and seeing a young lady and a tut-tut scooter operator. They smiled and waved each morning and I could not pass up the service they offered. The lady was the boss & spoke better English than the scooter guy. They were always there whenever I needed them, plus the scooter guy was even there when I was walking back from The Big Easy late every night with a loud “Good Night Aussie”. Felt terrible the long hours he did, so I used his services regularly.

One day at my usual bar spot at The Big Easy I met a fellow Aussie, Con from Mornington Peninsula, a seaside city South-West of Melbourne where he managed a large hotel and convention centre there. He was in Cambodia on a 2week binge for his well-earned holiday. Pls refer to the photo with myself, Adam & Con. We had lots to talk about plus viewing the regular AFL games (Australian Rules Football) broadcasted live on the large bar TV but I definitely left him to drink his required level of beers …. Far, far too much for me! He certainly made his last week here at full speed whereas I did everything at a responsible pace and savoured the better elements of Cambodia!!

Another Aussie working at The Big Easy was Adam. He was 43yrs old but looks like 35 .. purely on his easy laid-back life looking after him. He has been to 40+ countries and started travelling while quite young. We got on so well together and talked whenever he had spare time while working. He has been at Sihanoukville for 2 ½yrs and loves it (Backpackers Heaven he called it) but each day becomes harder due to the encroachment of the Chinese destroying all that made the place great. I totally agreed with him and anyone would find it hard not to. I was being tested daily on how long I could handle staying here; the Chinese are restricting things to do and creating havoc with demolition, construction and blackouts. Each day I awake to jackhammers and machinery at 6am 7 days a week. Some of the high-rise casinos work 24hr shifts, 7 days a week. Even pouring concrete at night.

I received a call from Kaz (Karyn – Cousin’s wife in Australia from my last blog and the start of this blog) saying she will be in Siem Reap from 25^th May for a week to run her regular health retreat and was thinking of coming to Sihanoukville to catchup with me prior. On the same day I was contacted by Anita, a young German backpacker where my eldest son, Scott & I took her around the Sth Island of New Zealand for 3 amazing weeks in a Winnebago late 2017. She was currently in Vietnam and was hoping I would be in Vietnam (Hanoi) before the 25^th May to catchup. Alas, I could not physically arrange this but she encouraged me that Vietnam awaits and will surprise me. I knew Kaz would not like Sihanoukville so I offered to find a way to get to her. With both these great women trying to connect and pull me away from Sihanoukville it certainly provided the escalation to do something and push me to another travelling advance to get me out of my comfort zone. With a bit of juggling I was able to work an itinerary to catchup with Kaz, gain my Vietnam 90day Visa (2 days processing) and sort a few things out in Phnom Pehn and then fly to Siem Reap.

Kaz, now thrilled on my offer to visit her encouraged me to partake in her Health Retreat wherever it suited me and gained a fantastic week’s rate accommodation at the Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel where the retreat is being held. It is owned and managed by Aussies as well. I could not pass this up. Meanwhile, Anita is providing more info on Vietnam. Yay!!!! I feel excited for a new adventure, albeit I’m not sure what Kaz has in mind for me in regards to a health retreat.

One day I had a catchup with Adam mid-morning at The Big Easy and he introduced me to another Adam, an English trekker & slightly younger than #1 Adam. He has resided on Koh Rong (Ko Toit) for some years and operates the world-renowned Adventure Adam dive and extreme trekking and fishing company www.adventureadam.org . He employed some 20+ staff and 3 boats and heaps of gear. When he originally arrived at Koh Rong with his mates, they did everything that was extreme adventure. Some people paid him so they could tag along and it was this that his mates convinced him to start up a company doing what he loves. He has been flat out ever since! Adam MUST write his life story and I told him so. Today, he had come to Sihanoukville to see his Bank Manager but now has to stay overnight due to their rescheduling. Adam hates this financial headache and dealing with ‘erratic bank rules’. Truthfully, we spoke for some 4hours straight. We ordered a late lunch and then Adam ushered over a very young lady (about 20yr old) sitting on her own. Her name was Julia and a French Canadian. She was apprehensive at first but the fantastic conversation continued even after her Canadian travel buddy, Cole turned up. Adam retreated to his unit while Julia, Cole, I & others played pool later on; so on this great day I didn’t leave The Big Easy from 9am till 1am. A great chilling and motivational day at the same time, if that makes sense?

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Nearing my last days, I used my regular Tut-Tut scooter guy to take me to the Russian Bridge (Kaoh Puos Bridge) linking a close island (Kaoh Puos) to see what is there. It’s called the Russian Bridge locally because they paid for the construction & once completed the Cambodians kicked the Russians out for the Chinese money. Unfortunately, no traffic is allowed on the bridge nowadays so you can only walk over. Plenty of security in Police who guard the entry. Insufficient time left to walk this distance and another storm is brewing so we abandoned that event and went to see the roaming monkeys just up the road. They were so brazen and showed no fear in anything, not even the erratic traffic and they are breeding quite well. Going back to The Big Easy we took the normal coast road winding around tight corners and alongside the extremely large casino construction sites. OMG!!! The road I normally walked upon before my island tour had now been totally excavated and re-levelled into a mess of muddy clay. My Scooter Guy stated they (Chinese) did this with no notice and I could definitely see this now with store operators (Cambodians) handing down drinks & food to travelling patrons from random heights with no alternative to do business. Typical Chinese invaders. Look at the Serendipity Beach Market area where bulldozers overnight demolished this huge area along the sandy beach area and it has been untouched in this condition for almost 12months. Same for the green pond catchment in the photo below where Chinese Developers filled it in for construction and when the rainy season came there was unprecedented mass flooding. Totally disgusting.

I caught up with Julia & Cole on another night and we played Gin Rummy. I needed urgent lessons and played lousy but they were good to this old bloke. They left for a few minutes and then returned to say they obtained their bus tickets heading towards Phnom Pehn & ultimately Vietnam. We played a few more hands and with a Danish Girl, Sidsel (pronounced Sizzle) till 11pm when both Julia & Cole said good-bye & headed for the bus. Wow!!! Talk about instant decision making & 10 seconds to say good-bye. A little later (Midnight) Sidsel was catching her bus to Bangkok (16hr trip). I walked her to the nearby shop for safety & she was really thrilled for that. All of a sudden I was alone and to seek new ‘friends’ hopefully tomorrow. Post Blog: Believe it or not, I arrived in Hanoi Vietnam and walking an extremely busy street when I heard a call out of Brian!! I stopped, turned around and there were Julia & Cole. How’s that!!! They were with friends so we could not catchup for a longer time but what beaming smiles and hugs forthcoming. I really miss their open company and spirit.

The next night I was sitting at my Big Easy crowded bar but everyone was in group talks so it was just me & the large overhead TV & a spare seat next to me. Adam not working either. Suddenly, a sweet voice asked if the seat was taken. I felt my voice was missing … a vivacious gorgeous blonde lady sat beside me and ordered her drink. I assumed she was waiting on her partner for it is rare to see a lady around 40 being alone. After a few minutes I conversed and off started the most diverse and encouraging conversation for hours. Her name was Osa from Canada but born and grew up in Sweden but residing in Canada since her marriage. Her husband (there you go .. darn) .. was doing a karate tournament in Las Vegas so they had an agreement for her to do her own holiday trip. She chose Cambodia this time for 2 weeks and loving it. At the end of the night she could not stop thanking me for the conversation and so thankful for taking the step to talk. She usually sits alone and too shy to start up anything, being married, etc. She was also brave in insisting she gets a tut-tut back down alone to Otres Beach where she is staying (Midnight again .. jackhammers again at 6am).

My 2^nd last day at Sihanoukville, I booked my bus trip to Phnom Pehn ($13USD), my overnight stay at Billabong Hostel, my flight to Siem Reap and ultimately, my flight to Hanoi on 2^nd June and a hotel. My Siem Reap flight was gazumped so after a very long time and a call to USA I was able to rebook on another airline. I also received my Inca Trail (Machu Picchu Trek) info and itinerary for April 2019. I have a lot to plan for that trip taking my eldest son, Scott (pls refer to my earlier blogs for 5 weeks in Sth America).

Being my 2^nd last night most of the Big Easy staff I conversed with were on their night off together which is quite rare and they quickly organised a night of alcohol, pool tables and a mate’s night for me at a place called “The Square” to send me off well. It is now 10pm. Before we left The Big Easy one of the guys (Englishman) was playing pool down behind the bar and a Swedish girl said she liked the t shirt he was wearing. He said he liked the top she was wearing. In the blink of an eye she took off her top and took his t shirt for the night … no bra at all … can’t believe I missed that action (refer to the photo of the now famous top .. Adam on the left). Sorry, no photo of the Swedish girl.

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The Square is literally that … a Square of temporary looking shacks, much like construction site sheds joined together, each a separate establishment. I estimate at least 20 of them, all with bars, lounges, pool tables, video games, TVs, etc and you can basically step from one to another without any trouble. Sihanoukville also has the regular Pub Street but that was in the process of a Chinese shutdown, come demolition so basically The Square is the only place left. Prostitutes were aplenty and the place was abuzz, but we kept to a pool table bar where the guys knew the lady owner. She treated us like royalty and later we were joined by another friend, an Englishwoman/ teacher. Her husband was a business mentor for Cambodians and he was working this night. Adam was full of praise of me where he said I had been there for quite some weeks and I had always been of good temperament, respectful and a good communicator, etc unlike many he comes across. Quite embarrassing for this compliment. After much alcohol and numerous pool games in conjunction with all too frequent blackouts it was time to head home. It’s 2am … Where’s Adam? One guy said he saw a female friend with him and that was the last he saw of him.

My Last day and all was quiet. Adam surfaced in the afternoon looking like he was still 90% alcohol induced and very shabby. A friendly wave, we said good-bye and he was off to bed; he was what we call a shot duck! I will miss his friendship. I had an early night and caught the Phnom Pehn bus at 8.30am the next morning. I also was able to say good-bye to my tut-tut friends across the road as per normal heading for the bus station around the corner. It was now my youngest brother’s birthday (Rod) who had passed away almost exactly a year ago. I really miss him and the bus trip had lots of thoughts of him & he always travels now with me as my travel buddy. Shuffling out of Sihanoukville I could not get over the ongoing demolition & construction sites where it looked like 1 out of 3 or 4 premises were affected and then along one main commercial road, I counted 5 concrete plants side by side and then a 6^th one about a kilometre away. That surely is a sign of mass construction. Good bye Sihanoukville and wished everything possible for the residents to overcome the Chinese invaders; knowing this place & the residents/ friends will remain strong in my memory.

6hrs later I arrived at Phnom Pehn 2.30pm amongst massive traffic and a thunderstorm (of course, almost daily now) and straight into a tut-tut to my Billabong Hostel where Janny (Manager) & staff remembered me immediately. Is that a good sign or a bad sign? Turned out to be a good sign … whew!!

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, specially through this COVID-19 pandemic of 2020. I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment. My next blog will be a bit of Phnom Pehn and heading for the magical week at Siem Reap with Kaz and co.

Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 8

Koh Rong Sanloem Island Tripping – Cambodia

From hearing tragic news yesterday about my cousin and in addition to his wife in regards to their health I feel compelled and with heartfelt compassion wish to dedicate this blog to them for their ongoing struggle and endless energy to living each day as it comes. They have endured a terrible 12 months and the news becomes more negative. Michael & Kaz (Karyn) loved travelling and thoroughly enjoyed the quiet beach scenes and beach swings and loved life in everything they did and continue to do and with a very large family including numerous grandchildren and now just became Great Grandparents. They are also both younger than I. This blog forms part of the quiet beach scene and beach swings in paradise and trust it is somewhat worthy. My words are never enough and with this COVID-19 fiasco I am unable to provide hugs and hold their hands. Prayers and thoughts abound.

From my last blog (Part 7) I was telling you about the man aged about late 50s walking at pace along the water’s edge with a cowboy hat on … and NOTHING else!! .. completely starkers and in full suntan all over, so he’s a regular nudist I suspect!!! Being a strong memory (unfortunately), I forgot to tell you about that particular beachfront on M’Pai Bay which was quite expansive of a sandy beach where there was a huge Cambodian Govt sign erected at what was the start of the island’s jungle but it had a bit of a Chinese connotation within it (hidden). It basically stated there is an approved development planned to further enhance a community feel. What a load of BS!! The approved development has already enabled a completed bulldozing of the jungle to 50% of the beach front, some 500m x 100m; like a war zone and surely is a criminal act to the island. Total devastation and disgusting! I dread what is coming .. and so most likely the residents living here.

Well, somehow fast was my last day at M’Pai Bay and the ferry was taking us travellers to Saracen Bay on the same island of Koh Rong Sanloem. It was a choppy sea and sad trip back to Saracen Bay, looking backwards at M’Pai Bay and the distant pier with the French lady and her young 5yr old son stranded there overnight after walking through the jungle all day to get to the pier (mentioned in Part 7).

When finally alighting at Saracen Bay there was no English assistance on the pier, just Cambodians wanting to do as they pleased and had no time given to the incoming travellers apart from taking our tickets with no eye contact and/ or smiles. Very different to the other piers we landed upon. Us travellers were all none the wiser as to where each of our resorts were located along the extensive beachfront. Pure frustration. On the pier I managed to get a rare phone signal to log into my resort & get a rough bearing. It is showing “The Beach Resort” to the right of the pier.

Stepping off the pier I headed along the very soft white sand struggling a little with my 2 solid backpacks and getting some foot traction. Being well after lunch the sand is quite hot too. The first sign I see is The Dive Shop so I kept on walking. After a good 10mins I stopped & wondered where my resort could be; so it must be behind me now. Walking back, I see what looks like a honeymoon couple sunbaking out the front of some thatched circular bungalows … yes, I know what a honeymoon couple looks like but I wish to not to disturb them. LOL!!! Somehow, another minute, I’m looking back at the Dive Shop again. Argghhh!!!!!

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Looking a little to the right behind The Dive Shop sign and basically hidden by palm trees and the like I can see my resort sign “The Beach Resort”. Yay!!!!! Walking in between native looking bungalows and a 2^nd storey accommodation block a petite, gorgeous young brunette walks around the corner past me which took me by surprise. She happily smiles and says “hello” but continues walking on. I soon found the main hall/ restaurant and reception (unattended). Within a few minutes the brunette comes up the steps to Reception and greets me again. I am now meeting Elena, a young Russian lady who is managing the resort for some months now. We immediately click and share in great banter speaking very good English; she gleefully shows me to my thatched bungalow #6 through the soft sand and hands me my key. My neighbours are the honeymoon couple. Small world .. haha! We also have to share the independent bungalow bathroom in between the 2 bungalows.

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I unpacked, albeit with no wardrobe. The bungalow is about 5m in diameter and the giant king-sized bed takes up most of the room. With everything now sorted I headed back to Reception. There, I ordered a nice cold beer, some food and listened to good western music in the background. I’m relaxed already. What a great environment. Elena chats with me some more and we share stories. So, pleased to share in good communication. Elena being the most beautiful Russian I have met to date is a much-welcomed bonus. Great personality and wonderful speaking voice. I later found out her boyfriend .. darn!! … & he’s definitely not much … of course (my jealous opinion I think). Such a shame I didn’t get a photo with her to share her smile.

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Darkness comes, more drinks and a healthy dinner looking out at the beach candle lights and soft music and I resign to take my respite into my bungalow with a King size bed. Bummer!!! I have squatters!!! A male & female Tokay Geckos. These are huge to our Australian house gecko versions. These grow to about 12”/ 330mm (see Photo). Very little sleep that night as they both ran along the ceiling poles and beams above my head chasing moths and the like. I had thoughts they would lose their footing and fall on top of me. They make a very loud ‘cuckoo’ sound as well, which is quite unnerving … reminds me of a similarity of the Predator movie creature sound. I was reassured with my mosquito net tightly tucked under all sides of my mattress but sleep was hiding well this night despite the calming roll of the tiny bay waves just some 15m away.

My alarm clock was the same as last night’s sounds; the small rolling waves of the bay. What a way to rise to the day. Getting organised for today’s ‘activities’, I was wondering how to time my sharing of the bathroom with the honeymoon couple. The bathroom was a lot closer to their bungalow door so I ensured I was quiet as possible. I wasn’t avoiding them, just respecting their privacy. Luckily, the Tokay Gecko ‘sunbaking’ on the door decided to move away but made sure he remained within the bathroom and shower area with his hiding place behind the glass mirror. I’m not a reptile lover.

Once I was organised, I went to the great hall (Reception and Dining) to partake in an abundant buffet of a selection of everything for breakfast. All for $7USD and to be greeted by Elena, yet again. Perfect morning so far and a glimpse of over-eating. I used their Wi-Fi with the hall as it is the only place that it works within the resort area. If I was desperate for the internet service, I would have to stand in the bay water some metres out (waist deep), so not keen for that. My first duty of any island stay is to explore and discover what lies unknown. The first option is always the beachfront so I head North, away from the main pier and to where the beach extends some shorter kilometres it seems than Southwards.

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The resorts are infrequent along this Northern beachfront and most are under renovation. I headed around a small rocky outcrop adjacent to an unused pier where I found boulders of unusual shapes and one, I called “My Whale Rock”. Following on from this naturally affected masterpiece I entered the sandy grounds of a resort and I find it awkward, as they encompass the direct beach access and to get to the remaining beach, one must enter its grounds. This resort scales both sides of a small natural occurring waterfall coming down the steep mountain behind. The flow of the water then enters a man-built lagoon like a very large spa bath with perimeter seating around.  Obviously, the guests would have the mind to stay in this all day such is the ambience and waterfall energy. If I was more brazen, I could have eased my way into it to enjoy it too. I think I would have stood out as a likely imposter.

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Past this resort the large headland comes into play and there is no sandy beach to enjoy. I’m not sure who developed the structure of an elevated timber pier-like walkway but it was a welcomed relief to eliminate the rocky outcrop some 3m below. The walkway also had small office-type rooms off it but most were empty until I came across the only one in service today. A hairdresser was cutting a few locals hair and some of the family were sitting outside. I did my normal “hello” and smiles but then realised the walkway had ended abruptly and there was nowhere else to go. A young local chap replied back in English; his preferred name was “T”. A very friendly and mindful person of good upbringing I soon found.  I introduced myself, but they all struggled on my name so I offered “B”. T & I sat together and spoke for some 20+minutes at least. We talked about so many things but mostly how much the Chinese had affected their daily and future lives and their creeping obscene development. T had lost so much work, along with his family and siblings. The Chinese import their own workers and some of these are prisoners brought over. It is so sad to see this nature and human destruction, even on the islands now. Saying goodbye is always difficult for me knowing never to set eyes or speak to these wonderful people again so I always wish another friendly “stay safe, happy & healthy” and clasp my hands in a prayer-like movement upon departing.

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After my lengthy chat with ‘T’ I head back to my resort via that all so tempting waterfall pool for more fresh water intake and then headed South for the extended beachfront kilometres. For almost the entire length of beachfront, some 4klms or so are neighbouring resorts and hotel stays, all except one are single storey structures. There was possibly 30+ resorts along this end of the beachfront. One resort had numerous large ‘concrete pipes’ converted to small stand-alone fully catered rooms “Pipe Resort” of course is its name. Haha! Nearly every establishment has their own set of serenity swings, hammocks and the like placed on the sand or within the bay waters. Perfect escape for anyone and I wondered if I used them would I be spotted as an intruder. Best not upset the ambience. I only noticed 2 resorts with swimming pools. I walked as far as it was possible to the Southern headland then looked back to see the pier in the hazy far distance. Where is a Tuk-Tuk; a long walk back?  

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Taking my time walking back, noticing being slightly after lunchtime, that I was basically the only one walking the beachfront in the hot sun of course. Probably, not smart. I was about 100m from the main pier when I noticed the young French woman with her 5yr old son I met in M’Pai Bay. She finally made it onto the ferry. I added some pace now so that I would meet her at the foot of the pier. She was quite surprised a stranger helped her down from the pier and then she was doubly surprised when she remembered our meeting on M’Pai Bay pier yesterday. Obviously, she was drained of energy, dehydrated, heavily sunburnt and stubborn as I basically had to reap her backpack off her shoulders. I was determined to walk her to her resort to meet her sister. Finally, found out her name was Marie. Within an instant she was so happy and relieved from the weight of her backpack and some of her hidden energy returned. Her resort was some 1.5klms down the beach I just walked.

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The sun was hot but the conversation was pleasing and before long we entered the reception and she whisked off hugging her sister behind the counter. I don’t know when they last saw each other but I guess it was a very long time ago by the length of the hugging. Her son stayed with me and Mum’s backpack until Marie returned and said “Thank You” and she had to quickly shower, eat lunch, a quick nap and head off to the Southern pier for another ferry later that afternoon with her sister. Such a shame for a quick goodbye but at least I saved her a bit of hardship and gave her more time by taking the backpack. I wished her safe travels and headed back to my resort’s hall for some sustenance (beer & food). What a day!! Some 10klms of walking, I think. I also had a senior’s afternoon nap too and after I managed a “hello” to the honeymoon couple finally after their sunbaking but they smiled and kept to themselves understanding they did not speak English … although a European couple.

It was a long night sitting in the Great Hall after dinner with no-one to talk to .. there were young couples but they were definitely in their own world and I found myself staring out to the black sea of water in the sand candles scattered out front with the orchestra of rhythmic bay waves lapping the white sand. Taking the orchestra with me and settling into the oversized bed I noticed only 1 Tokay Gecko present but still relied upon my safety of the mosquito net for the night. I slept so soundly and awoke to find no Geckos present come late sunrise. Using the bathroom, I found 1 Gecko again on the bathroom door which soon found the safety spot behind the mirror. Definitely not a reptile lover. Just saying.

Lately, every morning there is a roll of thunder and then heavy rain followed by full sun where you could almost set your watch to it. Everything becomes fresh .. the air, clean smells, your mind and attitude. What a blessing to be in paradise. With my tummy full from another great brekky I walked to the Southern beach pier (outgoing pier .. about 5klms return walk) to obtain my return ticket to Sihanoukville ferry (remember 24hrs clear notice to board). The walk was so laidback and very similar to yesterday albeit far less kilometres. Everyone seemed to be soaking up the day and taking in the quiet ambience. Everything was so quiet. I returned to the Great Hall and continued my Travel Writer’s Programme (new International Member) on my laptop and spent the day just settling back. Elena was having a day off and she did a bit of wading for most of the day in amongst the bay waves with her boyfriend so no-one close by to converse with. It can get lonely at times if it enters your mind.

The night was much the same but the food and beer was well worth staying up for. It was time to absorb everything coming in from the bay through the candlelight ambience. Fresh slight breezes, soothing bay wave sounds, etc; much better than manufactured digital recordings you buy or download. Come, the morning it was again much the same, thunder, rain & sunshine and it was my time to start the checkout process. I said good-bye to the Tokay Geckos now sleeping well in the cone-shaped roof structure of the bungalow. I’m sure they will miss me …???

Where had my 2.5 days gone here at Saracen Bay? Completely at ease and so tranquil in everything I did and thought about. No stressed decision making, nor anything to complain about. Brekky was paramount to over indulge (responsibly) as my next meal will be in the fast-paced Sihanoukville. Elena was busy with a few people checking out so saying good-bye was a bit rushed to my liking. I’ll miss her vibrancy and personality. After staying in the Great Hall after brekky making my journal notes and marking time for my ferry departure I struggled and screamed under my breath to make my way to the Southern Pier. I wished I could stay longer, much like the expats with extended visas here.

Reaching the pier, one wonders why there is no station or housing on the pier for shade as the sun is beating down at midday. I found some tree shade right off the pier with a timber step. Here I would stay saying hello to fellow travellers over time and it was the 3^rd ferry that finally became mine to board some 1.5hrs late. Surprisingly, the ferry entered M’Pai Bay for the first stop (opposite direction) for more passengers and once again, Steve, The Pier Captain was in full voice and vigour. He was too far away to offer a shouted “Hello” so I channelled my trusty ESP. LOL!!

Within 15minutes we departed for Sihanoukville, some 40mins away across the Bay of Thailand. I’m sure I left something of myself back on those islands and with heavy prayers they remain relatively untouched from the dreaded Chinese invasion.

Heading towards Sihanoukville’s pier you can see the confronting skyrise structures of ugly casinos blanketing the shoreline. Currently, some 34 mega-casinos are in construction and another 16 are ready for approval to start, thus making a total soon of about 87 operating casinos; all with virtually no community infrastructure. Straight off the pier to the left I find my usual window bench table at the Turkish bar and ordered a cold beer before I headed up Serendipity Street hill to my next hotel stay at Mick & Craig’s Guesthouse.

Doing this blog & reliving my experiences in chilling out, soaking in the serenity and the beach environment I now realise where are my photos that I now wished I had to share with you? I totally absorbed all that surrounded me and blissfully forgot those that are not here to walk and sit with me; to look through my eyes; so, I’m passing on my sincere apologies for being selfish and trust you at least like the photos I did take.

My next blog (no more Parts) will be the new phase of surviving Sihanoukville with a lease of adjusting to the bustle and find some interesting people to share my time with so stay tuned as things start to progress.

Prayers and thoughts Michael & Kaz.

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, specially through this COVID-19 pandemic. I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment.

Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 7

Koh Rong Sanloem Island Tripping – Cambodia

Now that I’ve survived my back to basics Koh Rong island experience, I started on the ferry hopping system from Sok San Beach to Koh Toch Beach (both on Koh Rong) to the main terminal at Saracen Bay on Koh Rong Sanloem (Eastern Side) then onto my next village of M’ Pai Bay (Central North of the island) which is basically a good stones’ throw South over the waves from my original departure at Koh Toch Beach.  The two main islands off Sihanoukville are Koh Rong (North Island – less developed) & Koh Rong Sanloem (South Island – more developed). You will need to refer to previous blogs to catchup on my Koh Rong stays.

With a quick stopover at Saracen Bay the ferry headed North and then West to round the North Eastern headland and gently easing into a beautiful ‘U’ shaped bay between an isolated cone-shaped island to a central pier at M’Pai Bay which M’Pai means #23 pier in Cambodian language. The ferry ride was a pleasant 20mins and when alighting we were greeted by the ‘Pier Captain’ issuing a boisterous humour filled greeting (much like a pirate) from an Ex-British compatriot with his still cockney accent …….. who quickly asked me where I am staying and he directed me to go to the end of the pier & “fall over … there you will find your hotel right in front.” Loved this encounter and he was so right in his direction … even though I chose not to fall over. First building you see is Bong’s.

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I had apprehension on my hotel after my last ‘resort’, plus their name for this hotel is Bong’s Guesthouse (Drug related) however I was warmly greeted with a European receptionist/ bar maid, etc. Everything went well with check-in and she showed me to my first-floor room with ensuite. It was so refreshing and comfortable apart from the island’s normal of cold showers only. For the remainder of the day I just scoured the front beach area and perused the other hotels, bars, cafés, etc admiring the little bay of beautiful blue bay waters and tiny shallow waves. It was a bit annoying to have so many dogs roam this business area and beach front. I was told these dogs (numerous packs) are not owned by anyone, they just roam free and breed.

I noticed the Pier Captain also manages an establishment (Mango Bar), a bar and cafe along some 3 shops from my Bong’s Hotel with his young wife and gorgeous young vibrant 2year old girl. Out the front are huge sitting cane chairs (soft cushions) imbedded into the soft white sand and hanging cane sitting baskets from a well shaded tree to waste your day in this paradise. The 2yr old child was so friendly and confident with the customers and loves the smoothies. Mum has troubles reigning her in at times.

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Wandering the beaches of sands, then rocks, then boulders you cannot help but unwind and chill out. Talk about a lazy experience. So many swings to try out along the water’s edge and into the ‘jungle’. Not far from Bong’s along the main street beach (sand area) you enter a very narrow foot trail between the trees and then amazingly another hostel opens up .. it really is secluded. I later found out this hostel has some wild parties and that’s where most of the young travellers stay at. There have been occasions where drug overdoses have eventuated and this is not the place to have any medical issue. The emergency response could take almost half a day. Walking up the primary street to the hilltop behind the pier I noticed a volunteer hospital being constructed. It will be basic in operation but what a wonderful thing to see for this village; and well overdue. There are other places under renovation also and some of these are bars and night spots and undertaken by lessees of young travellers wishing to base themselves in this secluded paradise. They are doing good work and some have a real attention to their new client base and keeping within the thoughts of the village.

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All goods for M’Pai Bay including all construction materials come via boat of course and the only operational pier cannot be accessed every time for all boats. Therefore, boats of all sizes come in shore as far as possible to the expected low-tide zone however, the photo shows the channel and 2 sand banks to encounter. Lots of boats come at very odd hours so it remains all hands-on deck. From there, manual workers wade out into the water and shoulder carry the ‘easy’ items and sometimes small float/ barges are used to get the materials closer to the shoreline. The goods are then double handled onto a trailer towed by the fantastic ‘Chinese Cow’ (miniature motorised 2-wheeled tractor) from the water’s edge to then deliver where the goods are required. Watching these tireless workers there is a strong feeling of empathy and guilt while I’m enjoying my $1USD cold beer. Somehow into the future and when the economy lifts, no doubt there will be a better pier and one fitted with a base crane for unloading and loading .. but we are talking well into the future to what I can currently see.

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At dusk my beer turns into 2 and I find the next table beside me is a couple from Sydney Australia. Had to notice their Aussie accents. Donna & Hughie are continuous travellers. Donna, slightly younger than me is originally a Lennox Head’s girl not far from my hometown in Northern New South Wales in Australia. We all immediately click and spend more time together and do small walks. Donna is trying to recover from a gash on her knee, so walking is a chore and soldiers on even though I had the perfect medicine in my first aid kit she was reluctant to use. Hugh is older than me and is a champion beer taster with a very dry Aussie humour. Lots to talk about with these two and they will return in some of my future blogs in the most surprising ways.

Sleep comes so easy in island places like this but sleep time seems so fast once the dogs start barking at the crack of dawn; along with the roosters (some have them in cages for cock fighting tournaments). This island place is pure heaven compared to the construction and demolition pit nightmare in nearby Sihanoukville. This paradise improves your wellbeing by much cleaner air and sea smells that have since left the city of massive redevelopment. After a sumptuous fruit, egg & toast & coffee brekky I decided to walk East along the shoreline seeing all kinds of trees, vines, colourful prayer houses (like stand-alone letterboxes at home), swings and taking in all that surrounds me; and then out of the blue; a man aged about late 50s walking at pace along the water’s edge with a cowboy hat on … and NOTHING else!! .. completely starkers and in full suntan all over, so he’s a regular nudist I suspect!!! He seemed so comfortable in his birthday suit while I was very uncomfortable .. It would be a few minutes more around the bend where some bathing female tourists will soon get an eye full. I respected his privacy & didn’t take a photo .. but he respected no-one else’s.

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Coming out of the ‘jungle’ along the beach I saw more people sunbathing, chilling out in hammocks suspended above the bay waters and note the absolute serenity. It was time to sit and contemplate with ‘clear mind’ .. not up to actual meditation standard but I was at some peace of mind. I enjoy looking back over to the main pier through the bay waters and the island opposite within the bay full of trees and with no inhabitants. This is where they do major snorkelling and diving, however I plan to do some trials on snorkelling first straight after lunch before taking to a professional snorkel & diving tour. A little West of the main pier is a short and old timber pier with a concrete topping and this was the perfect place to chill out and enjoy the clear water below and to test out my snorkelling challenge.

Having lunch back at Bong’s I soon realise I have to shave quite well in order to snorkel accordingly .. I detest shaving (for decades I had to shave 6 days a week), but alas, it is a must do for snorkelling. Fully set up now with my boardies and rashie and brand-new snorkel kit I wade out west of the main pier, noticing the water is extra warm for a long way out beyond the sand channels towards the old pier before it gets sufficiently deeper and cooler. It’s a balmy 39°C too. Remembering my brief Google training, I must remain calm (in breathing) and submerge, and much to my surprise I am doing rather well. There is little to see in this open bay sand floor however, a small fish here and there, but it was more the point of mastering my breathing and calmness and head towards success. I couldn’t believe how blue, yet crystal clear the water was. I did this for about 20 minutes and only noticing my location to the bay. My last surfacing was full of embarrassment as I did not see anyone near me and I came up between two gorgeous blonde girls from Norway in their early twenties. Certainly, got a fright! A ‘welcoming’ one though.

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They were both school teachers and were on a rushed 2week school holiday and were not worried about my snorkeling in the depths, as they decided to wade near me; not me invading their space. Honestly, I did not see them while underwater. We talked in English for more than 40minutes in chin height water, I believe, on every subject. They were catching the ferry the next morning so I was unable to catchup with them again. Really missed their company and friendliness. One of the ladies name was Cili .. (pronounced Silly … so that was a surprise).

I wanted to do the real snorkelling with a boat tour provider the next day but unfortunately all operators were closed for the day. Alas, I remain village bound but still I have time to explore the small village more by traversing to the main hill behind the growing village and to catch the afternoon ferry to Saracen Bay for my next resort stay. The hill shows itself to be growing with numerous small houses, an extension underway to the school, the volunteer hospital, more night bars & cafes & more new larger housing, all without destroying the nature & culture of the village. The people & new residing foreigners all showed great friendship with glowing smiles and hand waving as I walked past.

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I was sad to return down the hillside and pack my backpacks for the ferry. It has been a quiet, yet rewarding experience to just wander aimlessly and negate any timetable for a few precious days. I’m early for the ferry and gain the prime area for waiting; even though the pier is always crowded with gear and produce, nets, etc. A few minutes before the ferry arrives a beautiful young petite French woman appears with her 5yr old son. She is carrying a huge backpack, much larger than mine, no doubt packing for two people. Her English was OK for me to understand her. I could tell she was struggling and obviously doing it tough and looking for respite. They had walked most of the day through the jungle to get to this pier for the ferry. She jokingly said her son doesn’t carry anything and he prefers to be carried but knows that would be impossible. “He walks slow as well”. The woman is to meet her sister, working at Saracen Bay where I am heading before she heads to Sihanoukville the next day. She is really looking forward to seeing her sister and taking a well-earned respite in her lodgings. Sadly, I cannot remember her name for this blog. She had great communication and I would like to spend more time with her and talk about her life and travels.

The ferry pulls in and passengers board showing their tickets. I’m seated and look back to see the French lady continuing in a heavy discussion with the Pier Captain. Apparently, he is enforcing the min notice of 24hrs to board a ferry even though she has a ticket. Reluctantly, she smiles to everyone and waves good-bye with us all knowing there is nothing we can do.

It was a sad trip back to Saracen Bay, looking back at M’Pai Bay and the distant pier with the French lady and her young son stuck there; and when finally alighting at Saracen Bay there is no English assistance on the pier, so we are all no wiser as to where each of our resorts are. Pure frustration.

I’ll leave this blog here, so stay tuned for more island living and then onto Sihanoukville. I’m coming up to my Vietnam travels that totally blew my mind and created life-long memories.

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, specially through this COVID-19 pandemic. I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment.