Farewell – Australia’s Queen of the Skies – Qantas Boeing 747
Today, 22 July 2020 at 2pm marks the last flight out of Australia for our last Qantas Boeing 747-400 aircraft from Sydney to Los Angeles and then onto its resting place in the Mojave Desert. The Boeing 747 marked 49 years of superior service and is classed as the best ever passenger plane built. Further below the photos is one of my favourite memories of this enormous plane.
COVID-19 virus has brought the retirement earlier from the original timeframe of December 2020. Boeing 787 has replaced the old girl due to the economics of today’s standards and less fuel requirement. The 747 was paramount in allowing ordinary Australians to afford air travel back in 1971 to far-away lands when it was previously out of reach. It was the first plane to fly non-stop from Perth to London in 1984.
Qantas was world renowned in having their entire international fleet with the Jumbo 747 – 4 jet engine aircraft. Aviation data now shows 30 only 747 aircraft still in service with 93% solely as freighters. This flight to Los Angeles will be a freight trip as well and will be labelled as QF7474. Australia has 2 remaining Jumbo 747 in display museums. One at the HARS Aviation Museum at Albion Park (Wollongong, New South Wales) and the other at Qantas Founders Museum in Longreach Queensland (birthplace of Qantas).
The past week Qantas has arranged for one-hour farewell flights from Sydney, Brisbane & Canberra for enthusiasts, past employees and the like to provide a fitting farewell opportunity. Melbourne was omitted due to COVID-19 outbreaks.
Sharelle Quinn will command the final flight to Los Angeles, who has flown the jumbo for 36years and was the first Qantas female captain and another long serving pilot will forward it to the Mojave Desert in California.
One can’t imagine how many flights the 747 mastered and for Qantas there has never been a crash of their aircraft which is the only airline in the world that can state that achievement. It is estimated there were 250 million people transported over the 49years. Again, the 747 is the best passenger aircraft built. Qantas has used the 747 aircraft to do numerous mercy flights internationally & at home over its life span for emergency equipment and for passengers as well. Such a remarkable plane.
The Qantas airline’s, with its 65 jumbo jets flew over 3.6 billion kilometres over the 49years service which is just mind blowing.
Credit: Boeing Historical Archives
Credit: Qantas
Qantas had 2 aircraft especially painted to reflect our Indigenous community. Nalanji Dreaming, above, is a celebration of the balance and harmony of nature in Australia and reflects the lush colour palette of tropical Australia. The themes of the coast and reef were designed to complement the Red Centre and Northern Territory and motifs of Wunala Dreaming, launched the previous year.
My Favourite Qantas 747 Memory
Being a Cwlth employee supervising multi-million dollar major works of various nature (some secret) I was seconded in 1986 to be part of the QA & Contract Specialist Management Team to oversee the construction of several taxiways, diversion of SW Sewer Outflow Channels, fuel lines, etc to improve the Sydney Mascot Airport and to do pre-works to the upcoming 2nd runway, now in operation.
One day, we had to allow the full use of the runway (we previously had 25% of the runway for construction work) to be used again however we had a junction joint to overcome (recessed joint at the new taxiway/ runway junction). Numerous large steel plates (footpath crossing plates used in city high rise constructions were used). These plates, about 12, were 2400 x 1200 x 22mm thick steel & very heavy. They were placed the entire width of the taxiway joint (23metres) by a Hi-Ab truck (crane truck) & at the pressure end, the hole was filled with numerous sand bags tight. Us Managers, Civil Aviation, contractors, etc were all lined up 25m from the runway edge across the new taxiway to watch the first Qantas 747 takeoff at 3pm. The aircraft started from the Northern end and after about 150m came across our new taxiway. The outside jet engine blasted the sand bags & picked up the end steel plate like a piece of cardboard which flew completely over the entire 23m wide taxiway some 20m into the air & vertically stuck into the ground adjacent. Once the initial shock was overcome, we had to get the Hi-Ab truck back on site to pull it out & replace it back into position; plus, a concrete truck to mass concrete the end in, as the sand bags did not work. Some hours later other aircraft were allowed to takeoff. The concrete just held enough but had to be replaced at times but the steel plates stayed in place. Whew!! Talk about awesome jet power. Shame this was not filmed but it is firmly implanted into my memory.
Hope the above provided some input into this special occasion and gave you your favourite Boeing 747 aircraft memory? Sadly, I was never provided a 747 when I was flying internationally.
Thank you for reading my blog and hopefully I will receive some of your comments and experiences. Please stay safe, happy & healthy.
Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 6 – Koh Rong Island Tripping – Cambodia
My last night of 14 nights at Divers Hotel in Sihanoukville was non-eventful as always, with the constant late night and early morning noises of the restaurant next door. Really, I’m not too sad in leaving this hotel but I swore from the start of this journey of mine to not being spoilt by western standards .. so, toughen up Brian and enjoy the surprises!
I awoke to another alarm… arghh!! and raced out with an early check out to the first tut-tut operator that came along; for today, I take on another journey by checking in at Speedy Ferries at the Serendipity Pier and heading off to do my island tripping for 8 days of clean air and sunshine, etc away from the noise, bustle and constant construction and demolition here at Sihanoukville.
Slow Boat or Fishing Boat
I chose the faster ferries to the traditional slow boats (enlarged canoe/ fishing boat with basically a lawn whipper snipper motor with a small propeller) due to drastically reducing my time over the Bay of Thailand waters. There were strong rumours that the waters can be quite rough and many backpackers became very sea sick with no relief over quite some hours of boating. Several operators were expanding their ferry boats to cater for the increasing influx of tourists and the traditional slow boats may stick to closer locations in the future.
Checking in, I was again told my ferry would be non-stop to Koh Rong and a transport vehicle would be there to greet me and take me to my resort. No probs. Boarding the ferry, we were ushered on mass with a lot of hustling from the crew. Large backpacks taken off us and ‘thrown’ into storage hulls at the front, away from the bus-type bench seating of the passengers. It was a packed ferry alright and it was rather cramped but eerily quiet with no one conversing for the entire journey which was quite bewildering.
The trip seemed short, circling around a huge headland into an enormous bay with several piers. We stopped at the furthest point of the pier so we all couldn’t see much and then the Captain and crew start unpacking all our gear and placing them into a large pile on the narrow pier and then starts yelling with hand gestures. None of the crew could speak English and most passengers including myself became apprehensive. One passenger spoke up and said “we’ve been ordered off the boat” and then later on the pier we learn the passengers going to Koh Rong must wait for another ferry some 10mins away. We have concluded now that we have landed on Koh Rong Sanloem; so much for the non-stop ferry trip. The pier was very narrow and didn’t provide much comfort with standing room only between numerous luggage. I immediately remember my previous lesson learnt “smile at Cambodia and the world will smile back” making everything sort itself out. My fellow passengers start conversing now so that was pleasing.
Ferry @ Saracen Bay
Casinos in the Horizon
Pack of Slow Boats
Ten minutes to the second the other ferry arrives and we repeat the onboard routine but now with plenty of open seating along its sides and a much older and larger boat. No life jackets required apparently. Upon reversing we can see a vibrant seaside resort village (Saracen Bay Beach) with numerous piers and bright colours everywhere, from boats to cafes to shops/ buildings. Looking out across the water we can see the massive new casinos in the distance at Sihanoukville sadly jutting into the hazy sea salt horizon.
A shorter journey across the strait has us entering another pier (Koh Rong Community Pier) at Koh Toch Beach. One of two and a young Englishman greets us with other Cambodians and points us to the end of the pier and to keep walking in the same direction through the soft sand to an awaiting ute/ truck to take us to our respective resorts. The soft sand was a 200m heavy slog carrying our full backpacks, suitcases, etc and a bit of a challenge to all. Nothing stood out at the end of the pier and its surrounds. The island of Koh Rong is the poorer sister of the two main islands in development so we will see what awaits us for the next 3 nights.
The vehicle turned out to be an old Toyota 2wheel drive ute with a canvas/ steel mesh canopy and side bench seats. We were ushered into the back all 13 of us with myself being the only sole traveller and obviously the eldest. There were 3 groups, mainly Chinese, Sth American and Spanish. On my first look I shook my head for there was no turning circle for the ute so it had to reverse and now will be fully laden, we will soon have a problem. Reversing some 20m we became bogged into the soft sand and the order was given to decant the vehicle. Everyone then stood around & the Englishman started using his hands to shovel out the sand around the rear tyres. Me, not one to be idle & still shaking my head I went into the surrounding bush and found some medium branches and placed them at the rear of the tyres. The Englishman was so pleased & began reversing for some 30m and we now can board again on the more solid reddish/ brown gravel road and turn the ute around.
Koh Toch Beach Pier
All Aboard on the Ute
Muddy Crossings
In the tray of the ute everyone had a cushioned seat, whereas I had to stand in the centre, behind the cabin in a slightly crouched position as the canopy wasn’t high enough. A younger & taller male (Chinese) stood on the tow bar and held onto the canopy. No respect for the elder person but I expected as much coming accustomed to the new millennium’s upbringing. What we all didn’t know was this outback dirt road trip was approx. 20klms through the jungle in a large winding circle. There was a huge volume of rain about 1 hour before the ferry arrived so with frequency we had to pass through flooded roads and lots of mud. My fellow passengers all had a lot to say in their own language passing through the flood waters and ongoing violent bumps in the road. I couldn’t understand them but knew the conversation subjects in between their semi-scared and laughing faces.
After about 1hour the ute slows and stops. Looking out we all see a farm fence and bushland. The Chinese group are told to decant and head down the foot track winding into the bushes. Apparently, their resort is at the river/ lagoon a good walk away. Seems inviting .. not!!! I have a seat now for some measly 100m when we stop again and the others get off, leaving just me to take in the remaining jungle road. So, I’m guessing I’m not going anywhere popular is another sign. A further 150m and another stop and the Englishman tells me to head in the Western direction along the beach for some 250m until I come to the village of San Sok. Can’t miss it. The track is like any other beach track except for the lack of waves to which I’m more accustomed to, whereas this island beach is within the Bay of Thailand and like a flat lake.
Surprisingly, the first building I come to is the Sok San Resort, my resort with a very dilapidated pier. Upon checking in I’m surveying my open-air view to see where my room would be, and I’m at a loss. With broken English the young gentleman welcomed me and ushered me back and across the pathway I previously walked, to a shed lined with asbestos sheeting and one padlocked door. Inside I find 2 double beds, each with mosquito nets and ceiling of old simulated fish nets, ceiling fan and a light bulb. The ensuite was something else with mould on the walls, a toilet pan and a shower head. A saucepan to scoop water from the keg barrel for a cold shower & to flush the toilet. No mirror, vanity or towel rail/ hook. My guide is now telling me I am in the best room. Wow!!
My Shed Room Entrance & Host
My Ensuite .. Yay!
Sok San Resort Pier
I placed my bags down at the foot of the bed and ventured back to the pier to gather my thoughts when a couple from my ute trip arrived and viewed the other shed room and they voiced their displeasure and continued to find a better room elsewhere. They refused their original accommodation & later returned to mine to say they found a room at the end of the village. They could barely stay the night and will catch the ferry back to a better location and resort in the morning. Sitting out on the café seating looking out at the bay I resigned myself to accept this challenge of the ultimate low of accommodation and test my endurance and go from there. It’s just 3 nights. It is getting darkish so I go to the open counter of Reception to see when I can order some food. I’m told they are only open now to lunch orders and there is nothing here for me.
They direct me to walk down the concrete path as there are other places to eat. After some hesitation of limited choices, I enter a nice-looking traditional large hut with smiling faces. The menu suited me and they could accommodate all my food intake for the next 4 days so what a relief. I notice a very large group of Chinese and they were so rude to the staff and made a terrible mess of the table. Such pigs, & I would encounter them quite often as the days went on and due to this village being quite small. These people even left all their rubbish on the beach sand after swimming, etc.
Restaurant Night View
Cabins & Restaurants
Sok San ‘Main Street’
After dinner, I walked back towards my ‘shed’ in virtual darkness (no direct or street lighting) now realising I’m walking down what would be their ‘main street’. It is a 12-1500mm wide concrete path and dirt track, and you must be awake to the rush of the occasional scooter. Pedestrians are required to jump off the path. The scooters in late afternoon onwards can be ridden by kids as young as 8-10yrs old for there is no police here and there’s no age limit under 80cc. Village huts/ combined restaurants flank both sides of this path. One building is getting a major refurbishment and will be the prime resort of a decent quality when finished (double storey). One wing is completed but the workers are using it for the duration of construction so there’s no chance I could relocate for a better place.
View from Ferry Booking Pier
More Slow Boats & Pier
Slow Boat ready to Go
Each night was a task to sleep, for my bed was just a metre from the ‘main street/ path’ and I had strange and very loud & frequent cuckoo noises above my head. It was not a nice sound and I complained to my host but he brushed it aside when he couldn’t answer me. I later found out at my last resort on these islands the noises came from the local Tokay Geckos (lizard), where they can grow to 12” long (300mm) and over 1” (25mm) in diameter, not like our common geckos back home about 3” (75mm) long and 1/3rd of an inch (7mm) diameter.
Tokay Geckos
The next few days I walked the lonely beaches, noticing the vile amount of rubbish and plastics from irresponsible and careless travellers and the serene clear waters of the bay. After much struggling with my host I was able to find out to get the ferry off the island I had to book 24hrs prior and pay in cash; but it was a guess I had to go to the far end of the village to the other pier to arrange this. Lucky, I asked, for the 24hrs is strictly policed for some reason. The young lady at the furthest pier was extremely helpful and spoke very good English and arranged my ferry booking, albeit it would only take me to the pier where I caught the ute originally and book another ferry. What a frustrating find to finally know someone I could communicate well with at the end of my stay that would have been well received earlier.
My resort café (on the pier was the only place WiFi would work), especially after the storm damage to the communications tower on the jungle mountain range; my phone coverage was beyond poor. With my beach walks I became committed to booking my Machu Picchu trek in Peru next April 2019 and contacted my travelling couple I met in Brisbane a few months prior to my Cambodia journey who thoroughly recommended it for me to do. They were excited for me and started a draft itinerary for me to assist in my future journey.
Doing a facebook post I was contacted by a gorgeous Netherlands lady, Ayla I met back in my hometown area of Yamba backpacking who recommended Pura Vita Resort on Koh Rong but unfortunately, I had my itinerary already set. It certainly ticked some boxes and of higher quality when I checked their website so I must recommend this resort. https://www.puravitaresort.com
My 2nd night here, a huge storm evolved and Cambodia certainly get very reactive ones, even in the so-called dry season we are currently in now. I thought my shed would be blown over or smashed that night. Looking out a window, lightning struck a tree about 50m away and I was blinded for a while, so that was enough for me to return to my bed. I became thankful; for I only had one more night to go.
My last night was uneventful which was awesome .. or was I getting conditioned to this environment? Slightly after dawn I had to awake to another alarm to catch the early ferry at the far village pier. I was excited to see my next adventure and was silently praying for improvement; but in the same breath I was so pleased with myself in enduring the last 3 days; albeit, it wasn’t that bad overall. The ferry was on time and it took me back to Koh Toch Beach on the Sth Eastern end of the island where I caught the ute at the end of the furthest pier.
Post blog: I later met a British ex-pat called Adam in Sihanoukville after my island tripping. We talked for about 4hrs straight. He owns & runs Adventure Adam on Koh Rong, Koh Toch Beach, which undertakes all forms of adventure from scuba diving, snorkelling, jungle trekking & almost everything else. It would have been an enormous catchup if I had met up with him earlier and get to see his setup while I was on the island. I strongly recommended to him he write his life story for it would be truly amazing. I must reconnect with him somehow to see if he has started on his epic. A book not to be missed.
View from Koh Toch Pier
Another View from Pier
Beach Serenity
My next ferry took me to Saracen Bay Beach on Koh Rong Sanloem (where we first landed 4 days ago) which, again was confusing (Eastern side of the island). My ticket didn’t possess a lot of information but it was a much better pier (central to the village) and I could buy another ferry ticket on the pier to go to my next destination of M’ Pai Bay at 1pm (Central North of the island). Being about 8.15am, the young man at the counter offered to store my large backpack until the ferry came (on the same pier) at 1pm. With a few hours to kill I walked this more vibrant and popular tourist location and found a great eating place on another pier for brekky. It was perfect and could have stayed there all day.
My next stays will now be on the island of Koh Rong Sanloem starting at M’Pai Bay which means #23 in Cambodian for #23 Pier, and then back to Saracen Bay so I’ll leave you now for the moment until I do my next posts on the above locations.
Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, specially through this COVID-19 pandemic. I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment.
Like most Australians living through this pandemic of COVID-19 we showed our endearing love to our veterans of past wars by awaking at dawn and lighting a candle at the front of our driveway on the morning of 25th April.
I was thrilled to see many of our street neighbours all standing at ease listening to our radio broadcast of a city Anzac Service, along with our neighbour’s son all dressed in his school uniform and playing the Last Post with his clarinet.
To top it off and with perfect timing two WW2 Spitfire planes flew at low level above our estate flown by two veterans who had defied our inept State Govt who banned their fly past but like all veterans, when there is a mission, nothing holds them back. We applauded their defiance and show of their magnificent planes. We stand united with them.
After showing our respect; and sunrise now well into its showcase I walked the 6klms around our estate to see many families congregating in several streets and in compliance to the set social distancing and communicating in good spirits. Several homes still left their candles out, along with their Australian flags, poppies and memorabilia.
Looking into the sunrise, the local junior airstrip had a skydiver parachuting downwards with a giant Australian Flag suspending from his ankle. A magnificent sight and very pleased they had co-ordinated this event.
Another reason for doing this blog was to show you all a tremendous salute to our fallen local soldiers of WW1 that is currently being painted on the estate side of the noise barrier off Exit 45 on the M1 at Ormeau on Creek St opposite Reedmans Rd Reserve (ex-Pacific Hwy). My post and no doubt the mural coincides with the recent 75th anniversary of WW2 surrender of Germany & Japan on 8th May this year.
A local group is delivering on a grant to paint this giant mural of some 150m long on the metal sound barrier with portraits of the 7 local soldiers that never returned in WW1. These soldiers’ names are from the local cenotaph (Empty Tomb) at the Southern overpass (Mirambeena Dr) still called Exit 45 (Service Rd) which is well-known with a soldier statue located at the Pimpama Cemetery and Uniting Church. Each year the Anzac service grows in volume due to the housing boom in this area. The annual Anzac Day commemoration is extra special here and enjoyed at the completion with a coffee/ tea and cake/ pikelets, biscuits (everything home-made) in the church hall at the rear of the church put on by the Anzac Committee for a gold coin donation. To learn more about these local legends and their history there are several posts compiled in the Pimpama & Ormeau War Memorial Committee Facebook page.
This Cenotaph was built in 1919 and is heritage listed. It was moved in the 1990s further into the cemetery when the old Pacific Hwy was widened before the M1 construction. The photo is courtesy of Cal Mackinnon. It was well-known as the halfway point travelling between Brisbane & the Gold Coast and children would salute the soldier as their parents drove past.
The 7 soldiers were all Privates in the army. The Stewarts were all brothers; so that’s a massive tragedy for one family to bear. This mural shows actual faces with their names scribed below each portrait which is monumental in showing the faces of true local legends that paid the ultimate price for our freedoms. The mural clearly displays the local lifestyle and commerce in that period along with the Uniting Church in its current and yet, original form.
John W Peachey
Percival T James
Robert Stewart
William Stewart
George Stewart
David Wilkie
William Williamson
This mural is yet to be completed but it’s really taking shape and will be ready for this year’s Remembrance Day on 11am 11th November 2020. I don’t know who this group of painters are but they are doing a superb job and look forward to its completion. Every time we head South along Creek St to do our food shopping at Helensvale, we take notice of the progress. Unfortunately, there’s little safe area to stop and view it more closely so I might have to include this in my estate walks as a safer option.
We Will Remember Them … Lest We Forget
I trust you have enjoyed this local story and many thanks for reading my blogs. Stay safe, happy & healthy.
Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 5 Sihanoukville – Cambodia
Please refer to my earlier blog called ‘Cambodia Sihanoukville – A Seaside Paradise Lost 2018’
With my upcoming return to Phnom Penh at some point I believe I will also return to the Billabong Hostel seeing how it had ticked all my boxes. Today is Sunday, and I was excited to awake to an alarm .. go figure!! (Dislike alarms). Hate is such a drastic hurtful thing .. so now I use dislike. Alarm done … everything sorted, yes .. I showered and cleaned my teeth, checked out so easily and the tut-tut had me at the station in time for the 7am train departure to Sihanoukville on the West Coast. I walked straight onto the platform and the train wasn’t that long in length. A rather quaint setup with one caboose car, 2 carriages loaded with cars and motorcycles, a diesel generator carriage, 2 passenger carriages and the diesel locomotive. Not much time to do a further inspection so I quickly found a spare seat at the rear of one carriage on the right side and it had a rack for my 2 backpacks. Awesome!! The air conditioner was just above my rack. I was not expecting any air conditioning. Bonus. Not long, every seat was taken .. we are on our way. Definitely the only Australian on this train.
After about 1klm West, we enter a tunnel for some 500metres surprisingly (the land is so flat for the entire city and surrounds) and then we enter the few kilometres of lower economic city dwellings where it is such a narrow corridor between rows of houses. Reaching out with hands I could almost touch the roofs on both sides. Can’t believe, these rear of houses, are so close to the tracks, so I’m thankful the speed of this train is respectfully slowed at about 15klms/hr. It was amazing to see so many residents on their rear verandahs in their nightwear unashamedly out in the open for all of us to see, stretching and yawning to the awakened new day. Young children washing themselves in the nude. This is real life and culture .. right in view. I hope I was being discreet in taking all this neighbourhood culture coming to life. No photographs taken of course, respecting everyone’s privacy.
In taking a long curve we are heading South through the outer suburbs with speed climbing to a whopping 60klms/hour (sarcasm). At some point we will be heading generally West and now see why it is a 7hour trip. With the train schedule to Sihanoukville set at 3 times per week (every 2nd day) is because the track is single only all the way however, we do 2 sidings where we pull over for about 5-10mins at a time to allow the commercial and freight trains to pass by, we then rejoin the main track again. At each siding there is a toilet, coin donation and mostly for women on the platform. The men usually wait to the last minute and jump the train to the right side for ablutions over the main track before the train departs. What a view … and again, no photographs!!!! 😊
At one platform-stop waiting for a freight train to pass, a Cambodian woman turned around from her bench seat in front of me and made conversation to other strangers in Khmer language. As she spoke, she handed me a large slice of mango she was professionally slicing up. Her eyes were glowing with kindness. I was totally blown away with such generosity, smiles and care of another human. Huge smiles abounded by everyone and my English of “thank you” and my praying hands was well received also. That was lunch for me and she declined my energy bars in return but understand why … Western processed food of sorts. BTW, I’m not a person that wears sunglasses when I’m in a close communal setting. Seeing eyes is a sign of respect for me and a way of silent communication (transparency, if you like) so it may have helped the lady in sharing a mango. Just my thought.
My Train Carriage
Dry Landscape
Typical Farmhouse & Land
The landscape for almost the entire journey is much the same, dried out rice fields (rainy season almost 2 months away), low standard cattle pastures, farm houses with their own cemeteries and religious monuments close mainly to the railway boundary, mountains and hillsides in the distance all in parallel to the tracks it seems. It is so dry and nothing much for crops, etc for it is a normal average of 39°C and dry humidity. Can I tell you the most frustrating and annoying part of this trip? The continuous track sound whilst repetitive, is acceptable as a train journey and to be expected however, at each crossing whether it be a goat track, road or anything that resembles a crossing the train blows its warning ‘horn’. It is the sound of a ‘cow in pain’ searching for its lost calf. Believe me, by the time we reached Sihanoukville it must have sounded at least 200 times, no kidding and very LOUD! There is no real option but to keep my eyes open and enjoy the sounds and views … mini naps at best is all that can be achieved, until the next crossing.
Finally, in about the 6th hour, the landscape changed to a leafier treescape set in between hills. We were travelling into a series of valleys with a bit of jungle both sides, then around a large sweeping bend, a harbour of sorts and then the final stop at the station platform. The port and train station are located in the NW of Sihanoukville so my first lodging base is not much further from the station. I have not seen a carriage departure this fast from a train since the New York subway. By the time I latched on my backpacks and stumbled out every tut-tut was gone and only a couple of scooters left. No doubt I am left paying top dollar as it is too far to walk to my hotel and the cheapest fare, I could get was $10USD. Ripped off!!! $2USD was the accepted fare rate for the distance needed. “Not happy Jan”!! (An Australian saying from a well-known TV add). Somehow the rider fitted my large backpack on and with me on the back we headed off for just a few kilometres.
Basically, the first suburb (Phum Bei District) is where my first 2 weeks accommodation is placed in good faith, called the Diver’s Inc Hotel situated on Victory Hill. On first sight, it certainly isn’t much with the reception area at the side of the small carpark with tables and chairs had-hoc which is also the in-house bar. My first stumble is checking in. I’m now required to pay up front in $USD which was not in the conditions of booking in advance. Using my ‘Australian language skills’ I managed to get a few days grace in which to visit a bank thus allowing me to get some credence to this establishment, especially when 2 weeks is involved. My room was downstairs straight off the carpark (hotel built onto a steep slope) with only 1 window looking out to a neighbour’s back yard (restaurant) that one should only look once. So overgrown and rubbish everywhere. My room had an ensuite, and the room/ bed allowed adequate sleep so can’t complain too much. There was a kettle, some coffee & tea so that helped a little after buying some muesli for brekky. The pool was further down some more stairs from my room level and was barren to look at, but peaceful, I guess with construction noises not far away. I swam in it once on my first day but a tiny scratch on my foot soon became infected fast so no more swimming for me. The hotel reception didn’t take my pool comment at all, so at least I know where I stand now and certainly took my time going to the bank. My first -aid kit worked very well again.
My ex-GF, Dale back in Australia, spoke often about the Queenco Hotel & Casino on Mlop Chrey Beach as a place to hang out in style and peace, so this was my first day venture out. It was a 500m walk around and down the hill and I was hounded by tut-tuts the entire way. I had my day pack on and walked against the traffic so I could see what was coming at me .. but I quickly learnt from Phnom Penh, etc that it is not a given. The Casino and restaurant area is very nice and comfortable. The hotel & gym are now located across the road in a very large white building. Inside the casino and foyer area was very quiet but every customer in the bar/ outside dining area were Chinese but the staff mostly Cambodians who were very welcoming. It looked very upmarket so I was hesitant to the menu for lunch however all up, the lunch with a beer was $7USD so really can’t complain. I found a spare beach table to sit for a while and take in the view of the bay, mostly just watching the lapping water and floating pier. The pool behind me was in full swing with so many Chinese occupying the area. Some hours had passed before I ‘forced’ myself to venture back to my hotel. Back into the hotel I managed to sort out Skype on my laptop, so I face-talked to my daughter, Kate & Son-in-law Jason for a heartfelt family catchup. Such a heart-warming experience.
Queenco Roof Work
Queenco Floating Pier
My $7USD Lunch & Beer
The next day, I returned to Queenco, and upon entering the carpark, I stood and watched workers placing a large volume of new solar panels onto the casino’s steep roof. My construction work history kicks in whenever I see renovation or redevelopment. I kept looking at their unsafe work practices and seeing how they appeared to be monkeys scrambling all over the roof. While I was observing, a pat on the shoulder startled me a little. A Canadian man, Paul introduced himself and wanted me to join him in the bar area overlooking the bay (Gulf of Thailand)/ ocean.
Fishing & Slow Boat
Queenco Floating Pier
Paul, about 40ish, spends 6months here and returns to Canada and works 6months there, and has been doing this for more years than he can remember. We sit on a high table looking straight out to the bay. He orders a double bourbon and coke. I chose mango juice (9am now). We spoke for hours and he said it was the best conversation he has had for decades. Yeah .. sure, but we did speak on many subjects and I wasn’t bored either. The staff knew him very well, ordering his 5th serving of bourbon before leaving. Paul had been here for a month into his 6mth ‘sabbatical’. Walking out, I passed an immaculate Rolls Royce near the front door with Paul calling it the Chinese Tut-Tut taking Chinese around the city, etc. I later found out; he wasn’t kidding.
Rolls Royce Tut-Tut
City Brochure
For the next 2 hours Paul organised a regular tut-tut to show me around Sihanoukville. We covered some areas along the coastline, apparently all the way down to Otres 1 & Otres 2 beach areas. Paul raced into a local humpy shop & brought out 4 cans of beer to which he drank in a real hurry. At the last beer can he saw a woman he knew at Otres 2, so I found myself deserted in the tut-tut. We were a long way from my hotel but the driver got me back there alright except for the fare which required a bit of negotiation. Suffice to say, it was still a good day and wising up to the anomalies of Sihanoukville and how Chinese throw money around whereas backpackers and the like are understandably frugal with their money.
Creek Fully Choked.
The next day I returned to the Casino for a late brekky only to find Paul at his table again with his bourbon. We again, spoke for a while, including the tut-tut fare yesterday with no result for me. Paul said he has booked a flight to Thailand now as he could not stand staying in Sihanoukville for much longer. It was no longer his escape haven. After our catchup it was the last, I would see of Paul, so I hope he is OK and dealing with life the best he can. For the next few days, I would walk everywhere, again with tut-tuts hounding me for a fare. I wanted to keep my fitness and had no direct place to see. My walks uncovered all facets of local life and the enormous volumes of demolition and construction everywhere. Local creeks ‘flooded’ with all kinds of rubbish (packaging waste mostly), footpaths, what’s left of them full of construction materials, generators, rubbish leaving virtually only the roadway to walk upon. I’m confused on Dale’s description of paradise here with so much destruction and construction staring me in the face.
I could write volumes of what I encountered here in Sihanoukville so I’ll leave you to refer to one of my earliest blogs; Cambodia Sihanoukville – A Seaside Paradise Lost 2018. Long story short, Sihanoukville since approx. 2016 has been invaded by Chinese developers building some 40+ high-end casinos bringing the total of casinos to approx. 87 or so come mid-2019. Tourism stats show since 2015 a 704% increase in ‘tourists’ generally which would also include volumes of Chinese workers, gamblers and the like. A 37% increase each year, year over year … No other word but .. Invasion. The city already had a regional population of approx. 900K with little infrastructure.
For dinner, I would walk up to the corner from Divers Hotel past my well used family laundry (beautiful people and only $2USD each time for washing and folding) to a corner restaurant. Usually the meal with a beer would be around $4USD. I sat there each time watching a young mother and child with the Grandmother run a little humpy shop. They were always open, well into the night. One early evening I sat at the restaurant watching the humpy shop family pack everything up into a cart in very fast fashion and leaving. I was quite saddened with what I was seeing. Behind the shop was a vacant overrun part demolished land. A bit of a mess really. The next morning, I saw machines on the vacant block clearing everything in sight including the humpy shop. It was horrible but looking up the smaller street I saw a new metal cladded ‘shed’ at the edge of the block. The family had already shifted in and selling goods. What a pleasing surprise. They were so happy & myself so relieved. Things change fast in this city and with little or no warning. I’m not sure how long the family will trade out of this new ‘shack’ with things constantly changing around them.
Very Large Casino Construction
One day I thought I would venture further into the CBD heart of this city purely as a walking marathon heading towards Independence Park on Ekareach Street 100, near the Post Office. It is the main street with access all the way down to the ever-stretching CBD. It was quite a challenge in the heat with the first obstacle being to cross a busy 2-lane roundabout. Most main roundabouts have nature symbols in their centres and this one had large sculptures of twin blue dolphins. Somehow and using my skill of survival I cross in between trucks, cars, tut-tuts and scooters and noting pedestrians are not usually seen walking in this area. As I progress closer to the CBD, I walk past so much demolition, construction and rubbish filled canals/ streams with the noise, dust and constant moving of people, etc like ants all going along in their daily activities. I walk along footpaths until a road passage is required to get around the mess and storage the footpaths are used for. I’m taking in all the places I may need in the future, the shops, telcos, markets and the like. This is quite a walk with a view to the consistency of demolition and construction and haphazard safety practices. Basically 1 in 3 premises were either being demolished, renovated or built.
Typical Construction. No Bracing walls yet. Scary
Post blog: The building photo shows a typical block construction. This type of about 7 floors collapsed in June 2019 killing 28 workers and injured 26 at around 6am. The workers usually live & sleep on the first floor while they construct the building. Most workers were asleep at the time. After this tragedy the owner and builders were imprisoned and then the Cambodian authorities condemned approx. 20 new constructions and were ultimately demolished.
There is nothing else that stands out in view so I’ll soldier on in the hope something will come along around the bend. Where the constructions start again, each premises were forced to have generators out the front to handle the all too frequent power outages so you get a mouthful of fumes occasionally walking past. This main street is virtually a crooked ‘L’ shape overall so now I head along the shorter leg where the CBD appears to end slightly and Google Maps indicates a beach and pier in about 2klms (already done 3+)! I’m in need of a good watering hole with my water getting low.
In the distance I can see a huge roundabout ahead full of shining gold but nothing in focus as yet so my step speed increases as I go past a large school with what appears to be a combined primary and secondary school in redevelopment and numerous large, older casinos in operation almost neighbours to the school. This golden glow confirms I have landed upon Sihanoukville’s major and most famous tourist location, the Golden Lions within a very large roundabout to the intersecting of 5 streets. Built in 1996, these 2 lions are huge, with the male lion in a roar stance standing over his becalmed lioness. The main theory of such a monument is to portray the over-coming strength of the Cambodian people to the insidious Khmer Rouge tyranny ending in 1975 with the male lion showing strength and bravery and the lioness showing calmness and loyalty while they in a safe harbour while a male is around in protection.
Typical Casino (near School)
Golden Lions Roundabout
Golden Lions Roundabout (Casino in Background)
After taking in these impressive lions, I again, use my skills to cross and evade the free-for-all traffic on the roundabout, excessively more than the last one and it does take bravery and timing of the first steps forward. Don’t stop or swerve .. just keep walking to the same tempo … and don’t make eye contact .. they will avoid you at all cost. Concrete trucks have a different rule I think.
Walking up the short hill of Ochheuteal St 500 I take note of more hotels, backpacker lodges and what services are available, as this appears to be a better part of the city to base myself. My immediate priority is the Serendipity Beach & Pier where I see the calm bay, dead-end traffic, numerous tut-tuts and so many backpackers coming off the pier from ferries. A few are very sunburnt. I take a 10minute breather to take in the fresh salt air (no construction dust or smell) and the activities along the extended beach (Ochheuteal Beach) to the South which takes you to Otres 1 & 2. The immediate North is a headland type setting and thick with vegetation so I’ll check that out another day. For now, I’ll just people watch and see what unfolds. I note a lot of backpackers are using a popular ferry shop (Speedie Ferry) to buy tickets to the islands just off the coast (Koh Rong & Koh Rong Sanloem are the main islands). I’ll keep this in mind for the coming future. There are several ferry places to buy tickets but I’m feeling more confident to this popular one.
My Yasmine $1USD Beer & View
At the start of the pier there is a restaurant, Yasmine, where I can get a $1USD schooner of beer and a table next to the window to continue my people watching. The staff are superb and friendly, yet some of their customers are withdrawn and non-inclusive to others. It is well occupied by backpackers (eating mostly pizzas) while waiting for their ferry or to eat & drink straight after alighting. Thoroughly enjoyed this setting and after 2 beers started to head back up the street. Tut-tut operators hounded me, and mystified as to why I’m not taking up their services. I’m not ready to go ‘home’ yet.
Reaching the top of the hill I find a great little supermarket which had some breakfast food I could eat in my unit plus some health drinks for later. I’ll be coming here more often. Almost next door is a sound of popular rock and it’s drawing me in so passing the gravel entry past tables it is a large shed with large sport TVs, a bar and café with backpacker accommodation at the rear. This place is called the Big Easy and it certainly became my hang out base almost every day. Met a fellow Australian behind the bar, Adam and we connected immediately. He grew up in Lennox Head NSW not far from my hometown and has been away for several years and liked Sihanoukville so much he stayed. Apart from backpackers there were International teachers, massage ladies and beer drinking travellers catching up there so again, lots of people watching and talking when the opportunity arises.
I spent 2 weeks at Divers Hotel on Victory Hill but I frequently based my days at The Big Easy and I felt at home here with great staff, although I wouldn’t employ young male Cambodians as the ladies are more switched on, courteous and professional whereas the males are just pure lazy looking at their phones constantly. Across the road, Adam told me the travel agent will assist in extending my passport for 6months with unlimited fly in/ fly outs for the standard fee of $55USD. I was apprehensive in having to hand over my passport for 10 solid days awaiting approval but there is no other way and it does take 10 days. Gulp! When I landed in Siem Reap I applied for the Business Visa ($35USD) in lieu of the Tourist Visa for an extra $5USD so that I could extend my visa to the 6month limit whereas the tourist one you cannot extend and it only lasts 30days.
The Big Easy is one of the last remaining backpacker and night places in this district and they’re all becoming extinct. The Chinese dislike these establishments and International travellers and quickly buy them out and destruct mostly. One large place across the road has already been demolished for about 12mths with no redevelopment expected. Even along Ochheuteal Beach, adjacent to the Serendipity Pier the Chinese have demolished the very large market on the coastline and leaving it as a tip of rubbish and wasteland of approx. 130m x 60m. The villagers are severely depressed on this vandalism and the loss of property to make their income. Remember, I call the Chinese criminal invaders and here is the absolute proof!
A few doors down from the Big Easy is the Monkey Republic which is another backpacker establishment, however both these places were full up due to their great premises and scarcity of backpacker accommodation, so I had to rethink my non-itinerary scenario. I noticed a long- and well-established Mick & Craig’s Hotel a bit closer to the Golden Lions and it looks to be adequate and affordable however with my fast approaching checkout day of Divers Hotel I took Adam’s advice to see the main islands, starting with Koh Rong. In buying a ferry ticket and return I was able to book 8days doing the islands tripping and then another minimum 4weeks at Mick & Craig’s Hotel after, until I can see further into the future. While I’m away my extended visa will be processed as well. The island tripping can be awkward if you don’t take lots of cash as the internet is restrictive and most places don’t have card facilities and there are almost no ATMs.
A bit of advice I shouldn’t have taken from Adam was to seek out the most non-tourist location. I chose Sok San Village as my first stop based upon the internet pics and comments. My next blog, Part 6, will advise how this went and will take you to both major islands before returning to Sihanoukville.
Many thanks for reading my blogs and I look forward to any comments/ feedback. Stay happy, healthy & safe.
Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 4 – Phnom Penh – Cambodia
April 2018 – Staying at the Lumiere Hotel, 228 Samdech Mongkol lem St under my now completed 8day tour itinerary, it was a little above my travel budget even at 4 star (stretching my money as far as possible now due to no further income) so I searched for a good location for future sightseeing, etc and a few accommodation stars less than this upmarket hotel. I’m going to miss the views and the luxury. I found a bonus not far from the hotel called the Billabong Hostel in #158 Oknha Truong Cang St, one with private rooms, pool, bar & in-house food closer to the CBD. Most good accommodation places have tut-tuts congregating immediately outside so it was a very quick commute to this hostel.
Lumiere Hotel View – North
Billabong Hostel had a few rules for some of the 80 or so stayers; No outside food & drink allowed, only their canteen in-house food and drink served from the pool deck area. Their menu for all meals were rather limited, plus it was mandatory for travellers over 40 to stay in private rooms, not the dorms. Missed that by 2 decades .. LOL!!! Pool deck made up for the disassociation though but surprisingly most of the younger travellers stayed in their groups and provided barriers even when good morning, etc were expressed. This hostel is very popular and has a good setup and provided a cosy atmosphere with lounge areas and a good-sized pool deck and chairs. They offered off site laundry and delivery plus anything else you required. An efficient Reception that sorted everything for you. Even a computer and printer in the communal lounge. I was very confident and safe here to help digest and address the travesty of the last few days with the Khmer Rouge consciously on my mind.
Phnom Penh, being a capital city didn’t inspire me too much although the sheer volume of scooters was certainly an eye-opener! I Googled a few websites for things to see and do in Phnom Penh but very little came to provide clear inspiration, so my opinion of a large city didn’t sway and yes, possibly the emotional axe of the previous few days was still operational within my body and mind. I came to the conclusion I would most probably return to Phnom Penh at some point when I would be leaving Cambodia so I would most likely see more of the city then. My mind was more driven on getting to Dale’s (ex-GF) beloved Sihanoukville (backpackers heaven) believing that would be a better place for me knowing of the stories she frequently raved about. Hence, I took a tut-tut the next day after the tour towards the older city ‘centre’ and particularly the railway station to book my ticket to Sihanoukville. I was told the train is far better than a bus. Safer and more relaxing.
Your first tut-tut ride in Phnom Penh is a rush, weaving in any man’s language through the ‘vines’ of scooter mayhem. Fumes are another thing when lined up at the traffic lights .. I am now seeing passengers and riders with all types of masks but they are not in the majority but I now wished I had a mask. Cough!!!! A brief 10minutes and I was dropped off at the Bayon Markets where it is the best spot for a tut-tut operator to get another fare so I was happy with that and it is the main daily focus for many Cambodians. The markets cater for anything you could imagine, such as fish, eels, meat, chicken, pigs, fruit, vegies, clothing, bags, shoes, jewellery and so much more.
Stupa & Rlwy Station
Railway Station
My tut-tut driver pointed to ‘across the road’ to a large white building, very elaborate and somewhat historical, for that is the railway station. I was a little confused for it was ‘across the road’ but a long way down its own road and roundabout (old Buddha Stupa) and some buildings and other structures were neighbours to each end of this white building so where are the train tracks/ trains/ platform? Once I entered the building, I noticed the tracks were running 90° to the building and the station was definitely the end of the line, literally. A train unable to stop would plough through this building. I bought my Sihanoukville ticket from an English-speaking Cambodian young lady in the ticket booth who was so helpful. The train to Sihanoukville operates only 3 trips per week so mine will depart 7am on Sunday; today being Friday 13th April. The trip will be 7hrs non-stop and only cost $8USD .. so cheap.
Happy now with my ticket I saunted back to the markets and roamed about every aisle looking at everything on show. This place is so busy and very little room to manoeuvre and it was difficult to be polite and give way (as I do), as there was no curtesy provided by anyone. A sense everyone was walking through you in a pending emergency. I found an exit and began walking around a large perimeter of city blocks to take in whatever it brings and still not expecting much. The closest and most surprising building to definitely investigate is the Vattanac Capital, being the supreme high-rise structure in this city area. It won the architectural award in 2012 and then other awards followed. Exclusive areas throughout, such as a hotel, commercial offices, shops (Jimmy Choo – shoes), restaurants and bars placed at the top level and viewing platform. There was limited access today with some shops being fitted out and close to their holiday week.
Tut-Tuts & Vattanac Capital
There are quite a few of new structures standing out in this area so my walking became a marathon. Another city block and I came across the famous Raffles Hotel and just its street appearance seemed well above my budget and offered certainly the high-end market. Not far from this awesome hotel was the Embassy of the United States (looked like almost an entire city block actually). It was so impressive from the street view looking through the security gates and darkened glass. I dare not take a photo .. stay chilled Brian, I’m sure they are looking at you. Lots of security guards and all types of typical black vehicles you see on tv. It certainly portrayed power and professionalism.
With my larger perimeter walk I came across Wat Phnom again from the last tour day. It is a Buddhist temple (built 1372 & 27m high) which is located on the only Phnom Penh hill surrounded by major city roads like a huge roundabout. Today, their Easter & New Year Festival is in full swing and it is so crowded and very little space to walk. The cheering sounds of so many people plus the loudspeakers is insane in volume. So many families enjoying all the events and picnics. Everything seems so random and I’m sure there will be lots of parents and children sleeping well tonight. I did not pay the entrance fee as I could see plenty through the pool type screen fencing plus how could I fit into the squeeze of limited spaces? I walked around the circuit to see lots of the activities, dancing, juggling, limbo dancing, coits (Australian name given for throwing a woven ring to land on a raised short pole from a 2m distance) and so much more.
Moving on, I walked the streets and for some reason I seemed to be walking in circles .. Google Maps was certainly challenging me, cutting in and out and then resetting to another direction. So frustrating. I walked past a shop front showing a range of luxury cars selling Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Rolls Royce, etc .. so high-end, and in a country struggling to look after itself; so, who is buying these? I suspect Chinese only by what I am seeing within the show floor .. you could smell their money and it was so obscene to see them driving around the city in the vision of being called invaders with these luxurious chariots. The cost of one car could do so much for families here. It is upsetting to see such insane wealth and so brazen too.
Later, I eventually stumbled on the Central Market and isn’t this the biggest marketplace you’ve ever seen? So much to take in and a good chance of getting lost inside, so huge and busy as anything. It is all placed under a starfish type roof structure. Stumbling around now for hours I was ready to wind back beside the pool at the hostel with a cold beer .. or two. Not so far to walk now back to the hostel, so it was well timed. Once at the poolside I was feeling much better and gaining strength to fully overcome my ‘Cambodian Belly’ but still kept out of the pool. I found more communication with the Day Manager, Janny. She was really switched on in running the hostel and she thoroughly enjoyed my journey stories to date. It was great to have a conversation and especially better than the ones I have been having with myself for days now. Janny had always wished to travel and she hung on my every word.
The next day, Saturday, I stuck to the same walk around routine but this time I chose no tut-tut and trusted my feet to see the real culture of normal streets up close. Every house and shop front past were teeming with action and so many diverse products to sell, or services provided. Constant voices seem to be echoing off the walls. Even footpaths were taken up with merchandise so only the road was left to venture upon. Speaking of footpaths; the closer I came into the CBD area with traffic lights incorporating pedestrian crossings I would be standing at the kerb ready to walk and it was quite unnerving to have, say 10-20 scooters lined up directly behind me ready to hit the throttle. Pedestrians are barely tolerated here it seems and footpaths are part of the ‘roadway’. My Google Maps still played up and continued my frustrations. The amount of time wasted sometimes walking over the same traffic routes.
Google Maps shows an extremely large ‘waste’ area to the West of the old CBD. My research found that a few years ago a rich Cambodian woman owned this section and it was a large lake which was unkept and resembled a swamp apparently. Chinese developers bought this from her and criminally filled it in rather than clean it up and make it a city lung and peace place. Criminal, no other words for it in my book. Every city would kill to have a lake within its CBD boundaries. This was reaffirmed later when I visited Hanoi in Vietnam (a few blogs to go yet).
It never dawned on me to seek out the Australian Embassy to see how our country is presented. Obviously, it would not be as impressive as the US Embassy but Google Maps shows it as a relatively new building not far from the Royal Palace on the Eastern side of the city. Post blog:I wished that I had ventured that way as it would have pointed me in a much better direction of the city where new development is progressing fast and incorporating better town planning. Overall, this day presented nothing much to see and/ or report, except for the sheer volume of scooters that never let up. Catching up with Janny and the pool area/ backpackers and night beers was a good stimulus before early bed. Thank God Janny reminded me last minute of my incoming laundry. Such a professional job and all folded perfectly at $4USD. This was 80% of my clothing so I could not afford to lose them. My backpacks feel so much better now, fully packed ready for tomorrow’s train trip to Sihanoukville. Like all my early morning departures and with the alarm set I become a much lighter sleeper and an early bed never seems to work.
Apologies, for the light material in this blog but in my defence, I was recovering physically from my ‘Cambodian Belly’ plus mentally on the Killing fields and S21 Prison. I trust you will stay tune for Part 5 coming soon. Thanks again for reading and look forward to any feedback that may be forthcoming. To date I have received a few comments and these have provided some gratification and clarification, so please keep these coming.
Please stay safe and healthy during this COVID-19 pandemic.
Following from my Part 2 Blog of Siem Reap, my 8 day tour guides Sun (Guide), John (Driver) & I left the floating village of Tonle Sap Lake and headed towards the Cambodian North Western city of Battambang (Battum .. bung) along the central highway incorporating some 3 hours drive (a long loop connection road). Of course, we participated in the appearance of a free-for-all driving manners and staying in the ‘rules’ of traffic manoeuvrers. Within every kilometre I lost count of how many different modes of transport and what each was carrying. Everyone and everything used this highway. Humans, roaming and herded animals, buses, trucks, scooters, bicycles all doing their different speeds. Prayed everyone was using their utmost concentration.
From all the different modes of transport as outlined above, Sun pointed out the ‘Chinese Cow’ along the way and there were so many of them. They are hard to describe. A mini tractor of sorts with only one set of wheels and long steering bars that towed all kinds of trailers and machinery. They are used everywhere, from transport to ploughing. Sun explained the machinery originally came from China and quickly replaced their dependence upon cows, bulls, oxen and elephants, hence “Chinese Cow”. They transported loads of caged or harnessed animals, timber, roofing iron, lucerne/ hay, bricks .. just about anything and there appeared to be no load limits either.
Chinese Cow
Highway Upgrade
Lake 14 – Round Bathroom
Arriving in Battambang (Cambodia’s Rice Food Bowl region) at mid-day (population 200,000), John dropped me off at the Battambang Resort tucked away at the edge of town on a very dusty road amongst paddocks. There are no options of doing any sightseeing walking due to the surrounding wilderness solely of paddocks. The staff greeted me immediately with a mango juice drink and a light lunch in their café, beside the pool prior to being escorted to my private Lake 14 bungalow to unwind. The pathway was not conducive to open walking as you had winding stepping stones, low hanging vines and overgrown gardens. If you had suitcases you would be required to carry them the entire way. A half hour later I was provided a fantastic private massage for just $5USD. Totally relaxed now. The bungalow was very unique with a circular central bathroom and shower, a king-sized bed looking out at the pool and the wandering geese that took a liking to my bedroom window. Perverted geese.
Bat Cave
Bat ‘Street’ & cave
Flying Bats
Late afternoon, Sun & John picked me up for a 1hour drive to visit the bat cave below the temple of Prasat Bannon. Tourists were lined along the tiny roadway, next to a cemetery and local stalls selling all types of snacks, drinks and cooked insects (Spiders, ants, etc). My appetite escaped me promptly. As darkness drew, miniature bats started out from a tiny cave opening just above the roadway. The bats soon numbered in their millions and it takes some 30+ minutes for all of the adults to stream out. The young obviously stay within the cave until old enough. They are known to travel some 50klms each night and provide great insect control to the rice production in the fields. Time escaped us to venture to the temple of Prasat Bannon above so it was back to the resort for dinner and much needed sleep.
Waking up the next morning I felt quite ill with severe Gastro. Not sure if I obtained this from the resort or from the café on the way to Battambang. Gastro is usually from lettuce or tomatoes, etc where salads are washed in bad water. I have taken my drinking water in bottles, never tap water so I’m blaming something I ate. Luckily, I had my added first aid supplies with hydration tablets and diarrhea tablets. I doubled dosed initially considering the tour must proceed at the correct pace even though my strength has almost totally deserted me. So drained.
Today, Monday was my free day to wander around Battambang for site seeing but I was certainly not up to this. I retreated to the hotel, my bungalow and surrounds for the day. I took a meandering walk around the pond and overgrown gardens and wound up back at the pool for a sunny deck chair. You would think that would be relaxing but a close neighbouring temple had been using their loudspeakers ‘celebrating’ their worship and some sort of chanting ALL day long. To be honest, if I closed my eyes, I could believe I was at the races. Chanting was like a race call and very loud. Don’t know who won? LOL!!! It was sad it was a nothing day so caught up with my journal and tried to get well.
Tuesday, fully dosed up again I was packed and ready for Sun & John who were both upset of my new illness and seemed to take it personally. Once I showed them the normal Aussie way of dealing with things, they became more relaxed but they made sure I was taken the best of care of. Such gentlemen. Breakfast was mostly my favourite mango juice and toast (stale like bread with 10seconds in the toaster I think) and lots of jam. Food intake on hold after that.
Wat Ek New Temple
Wat Ek – Old Temple
Wat Ek Old Temple
Our first stop was the temple of Wat Ek Phnom. The old temple is quite small (1100AD) and severely damaged and looted over the centuries. The new temple setup adjacent shows more restoration and an enclosure to store statues, ornaments, etc. It is about 10klms North of Battambang so we had to backtrack South after this site towards Phnom Penh. We didn’t spend a lot of time here due to the timeframe ahead of us and that includes returning South 23klms from Battambang to Prasat Banan for the temple viewing.
Prasat Banan – Stairs
Stairs looking up from Level 1
Boys carrying goods
Prasat Bannon Temple is an 11th century structure with 5 huge stone towers with the central one being the highest. To get there, plus to see the surrounding view of villages and pastures you must gain your stamina to climb the insane 358 stone steps flanked either side by nagas (dragons) to a height of some 400metres. The optimum word here is “INSANE”! Each step is approx. 400-450mm high with no relief until you get to what I call ‘Level 1’ … let’s say, 300+ steps, where there is a woman selling drinks and snacks out of an esky and a table. That was my Mt Everest … could not go any further .. so drained. I watched the 2 small boys (around 8 & 9years) interact with their mother after they climbed with me carrying a very large block of ice between them all the way up to their Mother’s esky. Can’t see how they can do this ice delivery every day (twice) for Mum to sell drinks and ice creams, etc. Their world was full of happiness. As I sat there ‘recovering’ I looked down at the mountain of steps to see a small group of New Zealanders all struggling too but their language was far more colourful and not really suited to a temple viewing, cursing EVERY step and this continued on their downward journey too! They were very heat drained and not looking good. The most insane temple steps encountered. Sadly, I was not able to see the temple and its 5 towers, nor the country views.
Finally, I managed to return to the van where John had my cold face towel and more cold water. I could hear the towel singe steam off my face! Such a relief! Sun broke up the several hours drive to Phnom Penh with some stopovers and the most surprising one was a small pottery factory off the highway run by 3 families. Such sad living conditions but everyone was very happy even though their pottery market was struggling more each day. They generally make the clay fired bricks and pots for the traditional Cambodian fired stoves however, the population is becoming more electrically and stainless-steel savvy in their cooking requirements. The men were all sitting around a work table having their morning break when out from around the corner I saw a couple of young children being coy (seeing a strange Aussie certainly) so I gave them a colouring-in book & pencils out of my backpack. All of a sudden, I was swamped with children from the property house some 50m away (all 3 families live together in this one standard house). They all had huge smiles & much laughter/ cheering. I managed to have the exact amount of books & pencils. 14 sets in all went in 30 seconds. So many young children and the mothers could not stop smiling and seeing the kids show some pages to them with excitement. I finally was rid of the 6kgs of extra weight in my backpack. Whew!!! Not one of the family’s members could speak English so Sun translated. They were immensely grateful, bowing heads and hands in prayer mode numerous times however their smiles alone were enough for me. Sun was also grateful that I gave him one set for his nephew living back in Siem Reap.
Back onto the highway the construction works started and the traffic congestion increased by manoeuvring in and around the roadworks. China is investing in the Belt and Road Funding where they are upgrading the highway to a super highway and a rail line alongside that will allow both to cross the open lands of Cambodia and enter into Thailand in the North. The project is huge but there appears a major lack in proper Project Management, not to mention safety. China is putting Cambodia into severe debt that they won’t be able to recover from. I was to find out later how much invasion China has inflicted upon Cambodia to the detriment of the country every passing day.
Pottery Factory
Typical Houses
Oudong Palace
Oudong Temple
Oudong Temple
Oudong Temple
Our last stop before we get to Phnom Penh is an historical town of Oudong (40klms NW of the city) where we visit the mountain, Phnom Oudong. Here we find a temple with ancient steps but seems to be to today’s acceptable standard. These steps I can manage and notice my strength is returning. Yay!!! The temple is in very good condition and the surrounding landscape view is a sight well received. Looking down you can see the royal residence and Oudong was the capital of Cambodia for some 250 years until the 1850s and where Khmer Rouge first took hold in the early 1970s. The details of the temple carvings and walls are beyond belief. Such artistry. I was not allowed entrance into the temple. A sacred day I believe.
Nearing Phnom Penh you can feel the population swarm towards and envelope you with larger highways, traffic bedlam and horn blowing, scooters too many to count but they say around 7 Million (almost matching the population) and a cluster of high-rise buildings marking the CBD area. Winding through the convoluting narrow streets, not knowing which was North, South, East or West we came to an abrupt stop at a paved area where two valets met us operating out front of the Lumiere Hotel – 4star, a recently built high-rise. Sadly, it was time to say good bye to Sun & John, for they now hand me over to two local guides waiting there also to take me around Phnom Penh for the next day. Sun & John immediately returned to Siem Reap (5.5hrs, 320klms) which worried me until around midnight when Sun text me stating he had arrived home safely. I insisted Sun text me immediately he arrived home. So glad he did. There are no penalty or overtime rates in Cambodia so I gave them quite a large tip to make up for their wages. I was so glad to have them for the 7 days.
Phnom Penh
Lumiere Hotel
CBD View
My hotel room and the view from the 14th floor was superb. The city lights and a whole building in the distance had a large ‘tv’ screen on its entire wall. So different in this city scape and it kept me occupied. Gaining the much-needed sleep after midnight I was able to get my wonderful brekky at the hotel on the top floor to an even better view of the city however, time was not available to soak it in. It is now the last day of the tour and my guides await me in the lobby.
Royal Palace Museum
Emperor Maid Costumes x 7
Royal Palace Museum History Wall
Royal Palace Museum
Royal Palace Area
Royal Palace Gardens
Sadly, with smiles and my normal welcome, my guides are not too overjoyed. There is an instant disconnection .. names were casually thrown about, hence Sophea (Guide) is my only recollection to who they were. It took just seconds for me to be placed into a SUV and off to our first stop to the Royal Palace which is amazing and boosted my excitement. The grounds were impeccable and with a great museum showing how the palace operated and what clothing and rituals took place. A special flag was flying this day showing the King was present at the palace. He has maids in his care wearing the traditional gowns of the old days and there are 7 costumes used which allows the King to know which day of the week it was. True! The King is becoming old and remains single and has no children so I’m unaware what the future now holds for the dynasty. He has a nephew still but no news of such dynasty succession.
Our next trip was rather silent with some general conversation to a village 16klms away on the southern outskirts of Phnom Penh called Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre. It is commonly known as the “Killing Fields”. My guides leave me to wander to the entrance (fee is $6USD & included in my tour) and you are given a headset for walking commentary to respective locations around the site.
A point to note is, the village is very poor and run down and it goes along with the tragedy I’m about to uncover. The village grew out from the military post so I wished it would have been relocated as I do not know how the people here could live so close to this genocide. Surely, it must be a permanent scar to their living and feels more like a life of existing.
Tomb Memorial
Pod Grave
Memorial Museum
This blog can never achieve the tragedy and ruthlessness in what this place is unfolding to me. As you walk among the retrieval pods (only a few were unearthed) of mass graves you can still see clothing and bone matter protruding through the ground surface. It is visibly confronting. Some pods were approx. 5mx3mx3m deep and enveloped from 300 to 400+ people of all ages.
Tomb Memorial
Genocide Methods
Bones and Clothing
When all the pods for viewing were encountered, I was left with the centre piece monument to view. An amazing white and gold pagoda in a traditional Khmer architectural style some 25m in height. It has a central glass tomb housing thousands of human skulls in a museum type shelving system some 8m high. You are provided a very small floor area around its perimeter to closely view the horrendous crimes upon humanity. There is a catalogue of how each person was killed, some you could not even contemplate to be that evil against another person so I’ll keep this memory to myself. I was left shaking, knowing I was looking at thousands of skulls at very close range, and quite a few were children and I could not imagine any normal person spending more than 15 minutes in this monument. It is so confronting but respectfully done as best it could.
The Khmer Rouge (Pol Pot – Marxist Dictator) military 1975 – 79 used loud music hailers to muffle the screams of torture and killing. Prisoners arrived in the dark of night and mostly murdered before dawn. The transport finished just before midnight of each day so as not to raise suspicion. A nearby local farmer protested to the military of the horrendous smells overcoming to his property but took their answer as being an abattoir for the soldier’s food requirements. He was none the wiser even when the civil war was over. Baffles me how 2million people were killed in just these 4 years with virtually no interference from outside countries or world organisations. Pol Pot incredibly fought successive Cambodian Governments right up to the 1990s. It took the Vietnamese to invade Cambodia to defeat the Khmer Rouge in January 1979.
Returning to my guides, they communicated more openly to me, possibly due to my lifeless face before them. One of things I remember they stated was Cambodians still have difficulty with people wearing reading glasses. They were the first rounded up by the Khmer Rouge due to being associated as an educated person. I made damn sure after that I was discreet when I had to wear mine.
S21 Torture Beam
S21 Typical Cell
Cell Layout
Without knowing (still in a tragedy maze) we arrived back into the city to view the commonly known S21 Prison, now called The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, slightly South of the city centre & West of the new Government area and embassies. Here a school was taken over and converted to a holding prison. Each main building (3 of) were 2 storeys high and the entire site surrounded by a high wall stone fence with broken glass bottles and barbed wire topping. The cells were anything from 3mx3m to a miniature 1.7mx1.3m of floor area (600 wide doors). Not all had windows either and most were above head height. There is a small steel box (ammunition box) in a corner for ablutions. Inside 2 of the other buildings there are hundreds of B&W photos of prisoner’s arrival. Each photo shows sheer terror on their faces, all of different ages. So, confronting and it takes courage from you to look into their eyes. Tears cannot be withheld and the viewing is held in supreme silence of those walking around. You then pass all the vile tools, shackles and stocks they frequently used.
The torture inflicted here is horrendous to the extreme. Most of the torture ‘survivors’ were later sent to the ‘Killing Fields’ for their final torture and ultimate death. If there was a blessing it is believed each were blindfolded in the long line ready for the mass killing … but this was a scheme to ensure no-one saw an execution or to raise the alarm to other prisoners. It was a matter to keep everything quiet for the loudspeakers to be the main accepted noise in the darkness. What evil clouds must of hovered above.
S21 prisoners, at times were hung high on a beam mounted on large posts with their feet and hands high with arching backs, then lowered head first into large kettle pots that were full to the brim of the entire prisoner’s excrement, bad water, etc later used for field fertiliser. This was their main interrogation method. Prisoners were also whipped and washed in sea salt. Sometime after they were returned to their cell, unwashed from the excrement. There were many forms of torture used here and all too frequently.
Upon leaving towards the prison’s exit I encountered a souvenir area. Behind the counter of one table was a very old, tiny and frail man asleep in his chair. It was Mr Bou Meng, one of the remaining two living sole survivors of this prison. 7 prisoners survived when the prison was invaded where some 16,000 people including Mr Meng’s wife were tortured and killed. Their children ultimately died from starvation at a KR children’s camp located elsewhere. Out of deep respect I dare not wake him for conversation, so I bought his book and clasped my hands in prayer and bowed leaving him in peace. To date, I have not managed to read his book ‘Bou Meng – A Survivor from Khmer Rouge Prison S-21’ by Huy Vannak … maybe soon. He knew if he saw the hour before midnight of each day; he would endure another day of terror here at S21 hell hole. He attends each day to promote the truth to the hardship faced by his people.
He possessed the courage to survive and ensure the perpetrators would be held to account and ultimately he was to provide a witness statement to the ECCC .. commonly known as The Khmer Rouge Tribunal commissioned on 2nd January 2001, and helped obtain a guilty verdict towards the military personnel, although several perpetrators were later given high ranking Government positions due to their spin and blame towards the US, etc while the Vietnam War was still circling in the arena. It was beyond abhorrent their feasible reasoning and demeanour was predominately accepted, even by the United Nations (who I personally have NO time for) and lived comfortably for the remainder of their lives. Where was the true justice?
National Arts Museum
A short walk away is the National Arts Museum which can take a while to wander through even though there is a volume of similar artefacts to encounter. I had trouble taken all this in due to the genocide visits earlier so I can’t recall anything magnificent here. My guides later took me to the historical area and fringe of the CBD to view atop, Wat Phnom, a Buddhist temple (built 1372 & 27m high) which is Phnom Penh’s central point and located on the only hill surrounded by major city roads. It is a place where all their festivals are held and a general area for families to bond and in the next few days Easter will be celebrated in a big way. It was a relief to finally get back to the hotel and now I find myself alone in Cambodia, my 8day tour has ended. Gulp!
In summary, from this last day it would take me about 3 more days to deal with the atrocities uncovered by this Khmer Rouge genocide. So, confronting. I’ll leave this blog here for now and rejoin you with Part 4 where I wander Phnom Penh and relocate to another hostel and ultimately seek out Sihanoukville.
I appreciate your time in reading my blogs and trust you will look for Part 4. I look forward to any feedback. Take care and be kind to each other. Be strong & nice during this Corona-virus lockdown.
Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 2 – Siem Reap Cambodia
Following on from Part 1 of my Cambodia journey blog, Sun (pronounced S-une) and driver, John greeted me again with beaming smiles at my Lotus Blanc Resort, a luxurious hotel (4 stars minimum) in a good location in Siem Reap. The buffet breakfast provided by the resort was absolutely amazing … I was a glutton! Sun and John were promptly on time at 8am as arranged.
Lotus Blanc – Pool Area
John & Sun
Mr Savet’s tut-Tut
Apart from the safety aspect of taking this 8-day tour was to get to know the workings and culture of Cambodia and seeing the treasured temples and gaining confidence to venture onwards past the initial 8 days. The tour encompasses Siem Reap (in the North), Battambang (Central) & the capital, Phnom Penh (South). After Phnom Penh I hoped to go to Sihanoukville (Dale’s coastal base on the West coast) & stay there for as long as possible … depending upon an encroaching rainy season. Stay very close to Queenco Resort & Queenco Fitness Club & Spa (Street N# 143) in Mlop Chrey Beach area, as Dale said this was superb and a good location close to the bay (too expensive to stay at this resort by her statement and also my ‘budget’).
So much to write about Siem Reap and its region, so I will dedicate it in total to this blog. There are 3 small blogs already scripted to Cambodia if you scroll down to my first batch of blogs. As I said above, Sun & John were waiting with huge smiles in the carpark out the front. I felt like royalty having a private tour where the rule is John is the driver and he stays solely with the car. It was awkward for me when John opens the door, etc .. but that’s his role he takes very seriously. Sun, as the guide, does everything else. Unfortunately, John does not speak English but he can understand my smiles and my prayer-look hands of gratefulness with my bowing head, which is used extensively with everyone, such is their kind culture and nature.
From there we started on the temple tours driving along different types of road construction. Sun has been doing these tours for some 11 years so and he really knows his stuff. Not much he doesn’t know. He knew how to avoid most of the tourists, temple history knowledge, all entry points, fees & even where to stand to take the best viewing and photographs. Sun & I became instant friends with his temperament and manners and continues to be a facebook friend. He plays soccer still, married & with 2 small children. He even used his name & details to certify my purchase of a local SIM card on my phone as I left my passport in the hotel safe for security.
A local SIM in Cambodia is unbelievable (40Gig of data, cheap call rates, fantastic coverage & speed & all for $8USD per month and far superior to the expensive and below par crap we have in Australia). My provider on Australia charges $5AUD per day to use my Australian SIM overseas and this is certainly not a cheap or wise option. Make sure you transfer all your contacts to your phone storage prior, otherwise you will not have them available with your new SIM. Also, update your important contacts back home with the Australian international prefix +61 prior.
The Siem Reap temple tour included a range of temples, such as, Angkor Thom (Bayon Temple & Elephant’s Terrace, the infamous Angkor Wat, Bakheng Temple (Hill Temple), Banteay Srei, Ta Keo & Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider movie location) over 2 full days. The weather was very hot & dry (39C minimum in the shade). Visiting the temples, you can’t imagine the amazing detail of stonework, foundation and roof engineering and still in place to this day. Some of the temples were even older than Ankor Wat but certainly not as an expansive construction. Sun was amazing with the history stories of each temple. The carvings and what they relate to in historical stories. The temples took a bit of stamina to keep moving and climbing the insane stairways some had. Wished I had used my pedometer there to show the numerous kilometres I had walked in the very hot sun.
Every time I left the car John would present a cold bottle of retailed water (never drink the tap water in Cambodia). Every time I came back to the car John had a cold wet hand towel & face wash ready for me. Even beat me to open the door .. again. You cannot imagine how the cold towel felt after a few hours or so at each temple. Utter relief & soon the air con was working … Yay!!!! I felt sorry for the tourists using tut-tut carts, cycles, etc with no relief except the water they carried. There were plenty of cart shops selling water out of ice boxes due to the demand of thirsty tourists. There were pop up type cafés for food outside the perimeter of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom.
Every temple was amazing and the highlights were of course Angkor Wat (1016AD) and Ta Prohm (1186AD) with the enormous vines interlocked into, and on the temple stone walls. Angkor Wat was truly amazing through the day but the out of the blue weather timing for the sunrise and sunset showing the ultimate of post card type views of Angkor Wat fell short by chance.
It is paramount to watch your programmed time so you can allocate the maximum time to the respective temples and this is especially paramount for Angkor Wat where it is advisable to buy a multi-day ticket so you can see the sunrise and sunset over and above your day viewing and not cramming everything into the one enormous day. Angkor Thom is just a short 15mins drive from Siem Reap which helps with the timings and it should be allocated approx. 90mins max, otherwise you will be racing around Angkor Wat.
Angkor Thom is best to be seen first in the day prior to Angkor Wat, as this will enable the avoidance of the majority of tourists entering Angkor Wat. This method worked well. Angkor Thom also includes the Bayon Temple and Elephant’s Terrace. Bayon Temple has 216 gigantic stone faces, and in some alignments, you can match their noses and yours too, to make a great photo. The Elephant’s Terrace is in the East Gallery of the temple and from a raised platform the King and his entourage would view the marching elephant army parade. The stone carvings along this Eastern wall shows this in detail and is amazing. A side issue in prominent view is the enormous temporary structures and decorations being placed for the upcoming Easter celebrations. Locals also camp out here for the entire celebrations and is quite a huge event incorporating thousands of people.
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom – Noses
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom
Bullet Holes
Angkor Thom
Angkor Wat is absolutely huge and the largest religious structure in the world and an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was originally a Hindu temple and then modified to a Buddhist temple in the later part of the 12th century. The construction history of the nearby city of Siem Reap is that no building can be built higher than Angkor Wat (the central tower is 65m/ 213ft above ground). This construction restriction may change now that the Chinese are doing an infrastructure invasion and don’t care for current or historical town planning. The moat surrounding the central temple is 190m wide & 5klms in perimeter and engineers state the constant moisture to the foundation area provided stability to the enormous heavyweight structure. The sandstone blocks, approx. 5-10 million up to 1.5tonnes each were transported from a quarry at Mt Kulen by elephant teams and via a river stream canal some 35klms away.
Angkor Wat – Mote & Japan Bridge
Walking towards Angkor Wat after Mote
Mirror Pond
Water Basin 1 of 4
Me on Centre Stone
Stone roof above Ctr Stone
No Access Steep Stairs
View to West
Central Structure
The photo of the moat shows a floating bridge being used for access. It was donated by the Japanese Govt while the original sandstone bridge undergoes major repairs. It was an experience “walking on water”. Another amazing experience was to stand on the ‘central stone’ of Angkor Wat and show the roof construction above. Spanning out from this central point were the 4 water storage basins approx. 10mx10mx3m deep representing Earth, Wind, Fire and Sun. Angkor Wat in its construction has 4 gigantic Buddha faces, each one facing North, South, East & West. A point to remember is, the outer walls of Angkor Wat are missing now leaving only the protection walls at the mote intact which shows you the sheer enormity of this place in its day. At the rear of the temple there is the access to the top tower area for viewing however, you must be in good health, not pregnant, etc. The temple stairs are set at 60° in steepness so it’s a challenge.
Not included in the tour and a must see, is the Angkor Panorama Museum just outside the CBD of Siem Reap. Entry is cheap $5USD I think. This museum, funded by Nth Korea at $24M USD and constructed in 2015 is well worth the visit. At first you see giant scaled models that include Angkor Wat and 24 other temples past the foyer. These models are all scaled at 1:230 and in so much detail. You are then escorted by a guide into an enclosed, small spiral hallway that takes you onto a raised central platform. Reaching the platform (stage) our eyes are ablaze with a WOW!!! and a circular full height mural painting that surrounds you 360°. It is a painting of the entire Cambodian history starting with the war between Vietnam and Cambodia around 900AD through to the construction of Angkor Wat and then civilization afterwards. The painting is 12.9m high with a room diameter of approx. 39m = 122.6m in circumference. The painting is supplemented and camouflaged with real and artificial plants, rocks, timbers, etc for the 3D effect. It took 43 specialised painters 16 months to complete. The painting has so much detail it has some 45,000 faces/ bodies of Cambodian people in it. Sorry, photos/ videos not allowed and the guide ensures that compliance absolutely. You can stand there in awe for quite some time.
After the viewing of the painting you are guided to a 204 seating movie theatre to view the Angkor Wat story .. in my case it was a bit eerie with only about 4 of us seated. The movie is very well presented and not too long to sit through. The whole experience was capped off by enjoying the perfect air conditioning. The museum operates 7am – 9pm daily so there’s plenty of time to fit this into your day.
Bakeng Temple
Bakeng view to Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat Sunrise
Sun strongly advised to finish the Angkor Wat visit around 3pm and head to Bakeng Temple (927AD) some 2 kilometres or so to the West. This temple is much older than Angkor Wat and placed upon a small hill which again takes some walking on a winding ‘road’ however the sunset is well worth the climb for it enables the full face of Angkor Wat to ‘glow’ in the sun. Many people were making their way to the temple also but most of them were behind us. By the time we reached the base and through security gates we found a very small space left to which to sit down. Security only allow approx. 300 people at a time to enter as there is little space to congregate. Some hours passed and a battle was evolving between a good sunset or an approaching storm. Storms are quite huge in Cambodia. Upon Sun’s advice again, we headed back to the car, for the impending sunset was highly sceptical now. Walking down I noticed the enormous stream of people waiting in line to get to the temple for the sunset. Sadly, they will not achieve this. John, smiling, opened the door and then the heavens opened with such intense rain. The poor buggars on the hill.
Sun again, organised an early rise for the next day (4am where the resort provided a ‘brekky pack to go’, to view the sunrise of Angkor Wat, mainly through the mirror ponds. Being April and a few months from the predicted wet season the mirror ponds view with the sunrise, etc was a little disappointing due to the very low water level and diminishing lilies struggling to float in the small amount of water left. I still managed a good photo even though this particular day it RAINED and with full cloud cover!!!! Go figure!!! I could talk for days, just on the temples & photos however I’ll provide a brief overview of the main points. You can Google respective temples for further research.
Banteay Srei Temple
Khmer Art
Banteay Srei Temple
Ta Keo Temple
Ta Keo – 5 Columns
Ta Keo Temple
After Angkor Wat’s somewhat sad sunrise, we ventured to Banteay Srei Templewhich is renowned as “The Jewel of Khmer Art”.The miniature scale and intricate stone carvings (Red Sandstone erodes more rapid unfortunately) was beyond belief. How did they do these stone carvings? Sadly, this temple has been seriously affected by erosion, looting and wars. It was good to see this marvel prior to the bulk of tourist now due. Next, was the Ta Keo Temple, possibly the first sandstone temple by the Khmers. It has 5 sanctuary towers arranged in a Quincunx built on an upper most 5 tier pyramid all of clay bricks stacked so tight (no mortar) surrounded by the customary moat. Sun also knew where we could stand to get all 5 towers in a camera shot and that is outside the boundary walls.
Ta Prohm Entrance
Massive Tree
Dancer Hiding
Tree ‘Bottom”
Dinosaur?
Another Massive Tree
Following on from this temple we arrived at the jungle temple, Ta Prohm (1186AD) where it was used for the Angelina Jolie movie “Tomb Raider” for 10 days at a ‘donation’ cost of $100,000USD. In its day it was home to 12,500 people with an additional 80,000 in surrounding villages. The temple is in constant stabilisation by Indian engineers to prevent wall collapses, etc. The trees and vines are hundreds of years old and truly awesome in their majestic poses. One vine even resembles the human bum .. LOL!!! You can seek out the hidden dancer between some roots or look for the dinosaur type figure carved into a story panel. This temple is so hard to get good photos, partly by the restricted area but mostly it’s the tourists who are so rude when you wait for a long time to get a single photo.
Pub Street
Beer View
Walking Pub Street
With a full day of temple discovery over, it was now my free time. Sun & John dropped me off back at the resort where I quickly ventured to the luxury pool at the back. It was amazing to float the pool and enjoy the serenity and take in the reflection of today’s full amazement. Feeling fresh and more confident I secured Mr Savet’s tut-tut for a night out in ‘Pub Street’ (A couple of blocks are closed to transport each afternoon at 5.30pm so you can walk the streets & do the Aussie “Pub Crawl” & people watch) plus peruse the large local market crammed with every available space for stalls. Found a great spot opposite the famous Red Piano (no spot available there) where I chilled out with a few beers and met a NZ couple sitting adjacent. What a great experience and many tourists to meet & greet. The food & drinks were insanely cheap and very good (3 schooners for $3USD). I made sure I went back to the resort at 8.30pm as this is the time Pub Street gets ‘too alive’ if you know what I mean and its great advice to not drink too much. Also, another 8am pick up the next morning with Sun & John.
After another great night of sleep in the luxury room I again hit the ridiculously amazing buffet breakfast and finished just in time for the check out to see Sun arriving to the absolute second. Bundling my backpacks into the SUV we headed directly South to Tonle Sap Lake (2,700km2) to view the Khmer floating village. The lake is the largest fresh water lake in SE Asia however, it mainly has a maximum depth of just 10m with an average of some 1m. The Tonle Sap River also connects the lake to the Mekong River and can uniquely run backwards in times of monsoonal weather.
Tonle Sap Lake Canal
Canal Dry Dock – Low Water
Village Tourist Barge
Village School
Village Church
Crocodiles below deck
Village Market Barge
Roaming Python
Crocodile Ornaments
We clambered into a small punt (canoe type boat) with a smoky diesel motor to venture to the floating village which has now relocated further into the lake for deeper water. At times our captain had to raise the propeller to clear the lake bottom (Dry Season .. remember?). There are numerous fishermen using their canoes and also nets from the banks. Some canoes are fitted with a 2-stroke shaft motor system not unlike our whipper snippers (lawn trimmers) back home with a propeller fitted.
Took a while to come to the floating village where numerous buildings are scattered to a large area of open water. The village comprises of approx. 300 residents, a church, school, market shop, tourist barges and village homes. The villagers are mostly of Vietnamese origin and are very poor financially. The resident’s homes are secured by anchor ropes and a couple of bamboo or timber poles stacked like an American Indian tepee at least to 2 corners into the lake bed. The tourist barges use very large poles of course due to their size and the howling winds blowing at times.
Our punt is tethered to the very large tourist building by a beautiful smiling tiny young girl, barely 9yrs old. She was amazing and so wonderful in greeting us. A real treasure. A young boy, about 11yrs old was floating alongside on a large semi-cut pvc keg barrel with a very large python (about 1.8m) sitting on his lap (snake’s head was tied shut). The tourist barge has several punts of tourists aboard, tables and shelves of tourist goods (bags, purses, caps, sunglasses), cafe and so much more. The village men started showing us a huge free-range python (I’m not standing close of course) slithering aimlessly. The villagers then take up a few boards from the deck near where we were standing and immediately below was a large water pit of a volume of large crocodiles. Yikes!!! After about 1 hour and seeing plenty we had to head back. I was quite sad to leave the young girl behind so I hope she remains happy and healthy in life. We head back through the shallow lake canals, taking an hour before climbing back into the SUV again to head to the central Cambodian city of Battambang (pronounced Battum .. bung) some 3hours drive away along the central highway.
Apologies for the photo quality. I’m still learning what suits the WordPress specs. I will leave this Siem Reap region blog here and continue this tour with Part 3; on Battambang and the capital Phnom Penh tour places.
Again, many thanks for reading my blogs and hope you have enjoyed them. Appreciate any comments forthcoming. Stay safe and healthy.
From some conversations I had recently I believe I should write about my travels in 2018. To do this I first must start at the beginning by talking about events in 2016 & 2017 first to provide the full background as the basis for my new adventures of travelling.
For those that know me just a little bit I secured my Australian Passport when I turned 60 (2016). A very late starter I know. I always thought travelling was beyond me .. looking back, I had resources to do this but my structured upbringing, work, family and keeping everything and everyone afloat financially always rang loud and concreted; and always the perception to the need of travelling with someone beside me. Travelling alone was too risky .. that was my understanding over all those previous years. Weird I know but travelling was never hard on my radar due to the above.
Living with my slightly younger brother Kerry, and being part of the Wyndham Vacation Resort Group (Participants are called “Owner”) we discussed one night what have I planned to celebrate my 60th year. Never really crossed my mind for doing a huge celebration, however my wonderful daughter, Kate organised a birthday ‘gathering’ of some immediate family, friends and co-workers over the past 20+ years to be held at my home. By the way, it was quite an awesome gathering and so grateful in seeing so many wonderful people attend. The night of such questioning of what I should do to celebrate the milestone, Kerry said where would you like to go seeing you have vacation points to use? I was puzzled and empty in thought. I served the question back at him. Where would you go if you were me? He replied New York. What!!!! WOW!!! Hence, the request for an Australian Passport at 60.
Jumping forward, I haven’t done a blog on this USA trip so please comment if you wish for me to do so. I did a quick 18-day trip taking my brother, Kerry to Las Vegas, New York & Hawaii in celebration of my 60th. I was in awe of what a different exciting world I experienced and realised I could do this again. I was beside myself that I achieved something so huge.
Stepping to 2017 I had a year of trauma and severe turmoil to the heart and soul of my being. First, I lost a dear co-worker and mentor I knew for over 30+ years to brain tumours in that April. He was just 68yrs old and a very dear friend with amazing capacity for humans and life. I was lucky enough to fly to Sydney and spend an emotional weekend with Michael and his wife Mary a month before he passed. A time most treasured.
A month later we lost our youngest brother, Rod to a severe cardiac arrest at just 54yrs of age. Rod lived 2 doors up from us with his wife and 5 children. I saw him the night before, as I always did frequently and after this date my life imploded; and exploded, along with my brother Kerry. At the same time, I was heavily in love with an unbelievably beautiful, articulate and life changing woman (Dale) 19years my junior. Dale is a popular girl’s name in New Zealand. She was in love too and was able to get me through Rod’s passing but ‘escaped’, as she could not deal with me now being the same age as her Mother’s passing (61). Apparently, I was a ticking timebomb and this rocked her to her core. The consensus was, it was I that had the criteria for a cardiac arrest, not Rod. She went to a girlfriend’s place for a week to see the beach (she loved the beach) and she never ever returned so I could not contact her in a way to resolve anything. It would be a year or so later when I saw her face again but no conversation available. I had to find a way somehow to fall out of love … in silence. Very hard for this Taurean.
Dale
Rod with Kerry in background at my 60th
Kate & Family
Discussing such life events with some of my children (I have 4 mature children) a month or so later and with some Wyndham points to use up, we agreed to do a circumnavigation of the South Island of New Zealand with a 6 berth Winnebago in late October as a means of getting away and call it a ‘soft’ travel experience with little stress, etc and something special. As things would happen after booking the 3weeks rental, one of my sons and daughter in law had to cancel last minute to run her Dad’s dental clinic. One of my sons, Scott, could still go but it didn’t feel right, with too much room for 2 people.
A very long story short, I managed to seek out a female backpacker to tag along. OK .. you gutter judges! Male backpackers can be a real downer with their booze ups, irresponsibility’s and lack of commitment; so, a female is a far better & wiser choice. We were very lucky to secure a young German backpacker, Anita, who had just finished the North Island but didn’t know how to do the South Island (a much harder challenge). Anita scored the bunk area above the front seating for her privacy. Scott had the rear bed setup. I scored the kitchen table setup (painful). To sum up, we all had the best time ever (2,425klms from memory)!!! No issues, hassles or arguments. Anita is a beautiful person inside and out and her parents were also thrilled that we looked after her so well and hardly cost her a cent. Anita remains in contact with me to this day. She has great English where my German sucks .. LOL!!! I was in awe again of such a wonderful world; and meeting such a variety of good people. Another travel achievement that I was becoming more confident in. Again, if people out there wish to hear about this amazing NZ trip please comment a request.
Scott
Anita
Scott & I – Christchurch
Moving now to 2018. Dale continues to remain in my head, soul and heart like a ghost that keeps tapping on my shoulder. She changed my life so much and educated me in travel, etc. There is so much I could talk about here but I’ll keep this in my memory bank or maybe write about this much later; as time passes. Dale had been travelling solid for 4 years and had been in 56 countries with an emotional attachment to Cambodia where she used a seaside town called Sihanoukville as a base for writing her books.
Work was starting to dry up anyway for me due to the company’s poor direction. I went from working exceptionally well from home to being sent to the office each day some 1 hr 20mins each way due to a new manager of the division. It was such a demeaning ritual of nothingness. I had trouble dealing with this useless stress and people of poor form. With Easter & the Commonwealth Games approaching it was a better time than ever to start another life change. I considered myself partly burned out for the 10+ hours per work day. Gulp!!!
For my business social network, I merely stated I’m taking a “Gap Year”. With so much death and heartache surrounding me I was driven to be ‘lost’. I also wanted to prove I can do something and at the same time with my absence my brother Kerry will be forced into doing something proactive. After our USA trip he immediately said he no longer wanted to travel. He was happy to remain at home and watch TV much to Rod’s annoyance (Rod dearly wanted to come with us .. but marriage had a lot of constraints imposed). Even while I am away, I would still have to run the house accounts though due to Kerry’s forgetfulness in paying bills, etc.
With Cambodia firmly fixed in my mind (along with Dale); and with a lot of trepidation, I took the option of a guided 8-day tour of the major tourist destinations as a safety measure against my so-called limited ability of travel genius. The private tour package was provided by Indochinaodyssey https://www.indochinaodysseytours.com/cambodia.html which has now changed its name and become Chinese owned. They were extremely helpful and responded to all concerns promptly prior to the journey which left me only to concentrate on the flight. Bit of an expense but as you will see moving forward .. money well spent. Asia is another world to the norm of English background was my initial thinking but I learnt to stop my previously ‘over thinking’. Dale said, Cambodia is a place where just the littlest things can make a difference & that has been my life’s drive .. “to make a positive difference to where it counted”.
The departure day came … “one small step … one massive leap for Brian” was my onboard mantra. Felt like I was taking a rocket to another moon and certainly unchartered waters. I left the Gold Coast airport only with my backpack (Black Wolf Grand Teton 65L Combo) which turned out to be an absolute perfect friend for all adventures forthcoming for Cambodia. Malaysian Airlines had the best deal and turned out to be another wise choice confirming my prudent research prior. After navigating the Kuala Lumpur 2 terminal airport and the endless timeframes of limited sleep I landed in Siem Reap Cambodia at 7.30am, 5th April 2018 using Air Asia Airlines.
Kuala Lumpur 3am
Siem Reap .. 7.30am
Siem Reap Airside Terminal
Once I was through Siem Reap Customs (I obtained a Business Visa $35US upon entry which enabled me to later obtain a visa extension with multiple entries). Most travellers spend $30USD in getting a 30day tourist visa but that doesn’t allow you to extend your stay at a later date. Once overcoming Customs and Immigration I stepped through the large double doors to a sea of tut-tut drivers calling for passengers and waving signboards. Quite confronting to say the least. Not seeing my name waving at me I proceeded to the rear of drivers for Sun (pronounced S-une) to greet me with the most gleeful energy and smiles and great English. A greeting I will never forget and lucky I had provided my photo prior to the flight.
Mr Savet’s Tut-Tut
John & Sun
Lotus Blanc Resort & Pool
Sun, with driver, John knowing I had not properly eaten for some 16hrs or so took me to a local cuisine café Sun knew and they sat with me. What a wonderful thing for them to do, free of charge on an unassigned tour day. I eventually was allowed to pay for all the food and drink such was my Australian stubbornness and gratefulness. They both thought I was too generous. After a great meal and drink they dropped me off at my hotel, Lotus Blanc Resort, a luxurious hotel (4 stars minimum) and the following morning we would set upon the 8-day “Best of Cambodia” tour starting with a volume of famous temples surrounding Siem Reap.
With the large remaining part of the day as my free time I perused the luxurious pool area for a few hours and then bravely took the hotels tut-tut (Driver – Mr Savet, who was amazing) to a local restaurant (Queen Cuisine) for a local culture dinner and return. Tut-tut journeys are a real eye opener, appears no set road rules and takes on a picnic race day feel with all jostling for race positions. Hang on .. & don’t have your phone in your hands .. your phone will disappear in a blink by passing scooter riders.
I’ll leave this here for you to digest and soon I will post Part 2 where I undertake the amazing 8-day tour of Cambodia and beyond. Please feel free to provide a comment and a sincerely thank you for taking the time to read my writing and enjoying photos attached. My very best wishes for you and your family for 2020. Apologies for the photograph standards. WordPress has given me some glitches I can’t seem to rectify. Arrghh!!!!
With a broken sleep wondering if my youngest son Joshua had arrived safely at the Gold Coast after driving from Gerringong, NSW; I slept passed my intended wake up time therefore it will be hotter than what I wanted to experience. Today’s temp is expected a calm 34°C with around 75% humidity.
My brother. Kerry, headed off to the local Farmer’s Markets at Turner’s Beach 150m from our camper at Yamba while I climbed the sharp hill to the Pacific Hotel and along Clarence Street towards Pippi Beach in my boardies, tee shirt, cap, joggers and small backpack.
There were plenty of beachgoers and runners around Pippi and Main Beach but I kept a steady pace towards the beach and the extensive sand towards Angourie (a world-renowned surf break) village some 6klms South.
It’s been a while since I did some real walking and I decided to leave my Salomon Hiking Boots in the camper and rely on my joggers for this trip. All is good (a bit hot though), the seas a bit rough but plenty of surfers out at the far breaks catching plenty of reasonable waves.
It seems every walker has a dog (everyone of them unleashed) and I bet not one plastic bag for the number 2s (I found a few sets of evidence to prove my theory). One dog took a liking to me for some reason and kept dropping the ball at my feet for me to throw into the surf for retrieval. The owner had to take over otherwise I had a friend for life, I think.
Osprey Perched
Angourie
From Pippi beach you can see the houses of Angourie … doesn’t look that far … unbeknown there is a middle headland there hiding away which distorts the distance somewhat. Nearing this headland an Eastern Osprey glided towards me and hovered from a close aerial view. I suspect there is a nest nearby or walkers maybe throwing food scraps out for it. I was surprised how close it was hovering. I get a bit nervous if you have ever experienced a magpie swooping on you in nesting season so an eagle/ Osprey is a bit more daunting in size alone. My research leads me towards an Eastern Osprey due to its size and colouring whereas the next best selection would be a White Bellied- Sea Eagle but they are the 2nd largest raptor bird in Australia and would be larger than the bird I saw. The Wedged-Tailed Eagle is Australia’s largest & I have seen these up close and believe me, they are huge! Much larger than America’s Bald Eagle. My soaring friend went back to its lone high tree to perch and observe. The tree was central to the area recently devastated by the sever bushfires some months ago and the vegetation is quite sparse but slowly recovering.
The tide was going out so the headland manoeuvring was a bit easier. The presence of humans was now isolated and I felt marooned on a large island .. nothing around me until I saw a rock with numerous rock castles mounted. I am not alone! Before long I was at Spooky Beach (a Northern beach of Angourie) and with a very large dumping of seaweed along its shores to the Southern end. The smell was ripe of course but bearable for swimmers desperate for the cool down. I walked past Spooky Beach and to the Angourie Point where it winds around towards the flat rock walls where the Blue & Green rock pools are.
Natural Rock Walls
Rock Castles
Middle Headland
The photo shows the history behind these pools where in 1899 a quarry was set up with train lines to take the rocks here to Yamba by rail to make the middle wall of the Clarence River (Big River) for boat navigation at Yamba at the mouth of the Pacific Ocean. Overnight, these pools filled up with fresh water burying all the quarry equipment which made the quarry operations cease. These pools are only about 50m from the sea wall of crashing waves so it is quite unique. These pools offer vertical walls for brave people to scale and jump off into the vertical walls of these ponds since the 1900s. Currently, both pools have an attack of an algae so signs have been erected warning the public not to venture in. Of course, it hasn’t deterred many (I was). The Green pool seems to be the least affected in this case. Apart from seeing some climbers and jumpers enjoying the ‘bombing’ there was little for me to venture into. My water bottle was nearing empty so I thought I would visit the local café 100m away on the main road which has had some great reviews of late. It was well attended with no tables whatsoever available however, next door was Barbaresco arguably Yamba’s finest restaurant with my surprise my friends Davida & Adrienne were in attendance getting things ready for tonight’s servings.
Jumper off Green Pool
Yamba in Distance
Pool’s History
A very warm greeting was received by all including Coco (a German Backpacker) helping out. Last night was a very busy night so they needed to attend before lunch and get things sorted for late afternoon and tonight. Without holding them up too much Adrienne filled my water bottle with her ‘famous’ chilled water as she calls it and I was on my way. What a lifesaver for the water. Across from Barbaresco is the walking entrance to Spooky Beach and that is why it is named; due to the nature walk in a mini tropical oasis (be scary at night, early morning or dusk).
Back to the beach walk. I had already done 77mins and 6.15klms so it will now be repeated for the journey back to Yamba. I felt sand in my joggers, so I belted out the sand, tied them to my backpack and decided to walk barefoot back to Yamba, if possible. It was an opportunity to gain some of Earth’s magnetism for better health (please Google this .. it’s a fact). I found more rock pools full of crystal-clear water and vibrant colours of varying life, rock colours, etc. The photos don’t do it justice. I scaled more boulders and rock formations to add to the adventure and enjoying my barefoot romp.
Ocean Rock Pool
Osprey in Flight
Osprey and its Tree
It wasn’t long before my feathered observer (Osprey) was gliding through the sky above me. It was quite an eternity watching the effortless gliding of flight. If the Osprey was larger, I think it may have been sizing the 2 smaller dogs playing with their owner on the sand. It was unbelievable this Osprey flew alongside my journey for over a kilometre and then it stopped as if there was some boundary line outside of the Yamba colony. It perched on a tree and stayed there until I was out of sight.
Nearing the Southern end of Pippi Beach I decided to walk along River street (the first main street that takes you past the Golf Club and to the start of the CBD but first I must walk the soft sand with my bare feet. To say the sand was blistering was an understatement! Ouch!! It took a while before I could get some relief. Nearing the road, I was able to get my flip flops (thongs in Australia) out of my backpack and it took a few seconds to feel the relief. Walking 6klms on the sand possibly took the aged skin of my soles (like sandpaper) and now I have baby skin feet affected by intense heat. Still learning at my age .. Go Figure!!!
Another kilometre to go and I was at my Cousin’s Backpackers (Yamba YHA) to refill my water bottle. It was quite busy & I was in no mood to help clear the tables .. a counter stool had my name on it and there I found great relief. Another 15minutes later I had to get my feet going again to shop for some food for a late lunch. My brother was waiting in our camper, but he had to dash off to play one of his nephews in a game of golf. I’m all walked out .. so lunch for me it is!!!
My Pain Chart
Now with my feet elevated and them cursing my walk, I thought I would work my fingers and share this blog with you. Hope you enjoyed the walk with me and I look forward to any comments of course to help me improve … or stop .. LOL!!!
It’s our last day in Santiago, Chile’s capital and South America in general, being 2nd May 2019 however, we are scheduled to leave 00.45am tonight (3rd May actually) but completely lose a day when we arrive in Melbourne across the International Date Line to arrive on 4th May 2019. Spins your mind a bit when trying to schedule things on a hidden (lost) day to suit the correct timing. The IDL was the reason why I had 2 birthdays in April (Australia & Sth America timelines).
Following on from my previous blog post in Santiago we arrived safe at the Santiago Airport after our wanna-be Formula 1 limo driver (140klms/hr in parts) changed lanes like a magician and promptly aligned the car to the gutter where we alighted at the correct location for the terminal access. We tried to tell him we had plenty of time (midnight flight) but that was definitely lost in translation. We successfully checked-in and made our way to a cafe. Santiago Airport is quite active in the afternoons and seems to be a gentle build up to the early evening rush seeing this airport is the major interconnecting point for international travel. We arrived with 6 hours till our flight (no point staying in the city) so we will enjoy the people watching and a couple of coffee servings to kill the time.
Enjoying a coffee and some not so bad airport food in the general public area Scott and I eventually made our way into the departure section which is basically a 3 metre wide opening in a glass wall which confuses quite a few people thinking they can venture through this “traveller’s only” opening. To somehow overcome this, the airport has this entry manned to refuse public entry. He is quite busy and I’m sorry, it can be quite amusing at times watching their capture and refusal. Surely, they could improve the area to rectify this fault. Happens all too frequently.
Immigration/ Customs and scanning, etc went OK and we took up some seating for the next couple of hours. Not quite sure why we couldn’t get a quick nap in and for some reason we were both wide awake in this departure lounge. Scott was desperate for a good book to read in the plane but despite a thorough search of the airport there were absolutely no English books of any kind which was very frustrating. Time ticked along and then I received a message from Qantas that our Melbourne to Brisbane (home) connecting flight has been cancelled however, they have placed us on a flight some hours later. I will have to wait till Melbourne now to quickly request Con-x-ion (bus transport pickup at Brisbane) to reschedule our journey to my home in Gold Coast and hopefully this can be achieved without added fees or hassles.
It is just after midnight and finally, our flight is called and after quite some minutes of queueing to present our boarding passes, we notice no-one is progressing through the line but the Latam staff (Qantas associate airline) are running around like scared chickens in a panic. No communication and/ or announcements, so Sth America continues along that line of response action (nil).
After some 15mins or so standing, the line progresses through all so slowly. No-one is talking in our line (2 lines are queued) so no-one knows what is going on. We all show confusion judging by the myriad of traveller’s faces. We show our passport and our boarding passes as per normal and proceed one step into the aerobridge (connecting structure to the plane) and stopping again. The air is heating up, as no air conditioning is present and the aerobridge is completely full of people literally like sardines in a tin.
Looking through the wall of travellers I note staff are demanding people open their carry-on luggage for another detailed inspection. They have 2 small collapsible tables in use but the progress is all too slow. Some of the passengers are so slow to assist and not in readiness to get their act together and that just adds to Scott and my frustrations and the extraordinary delay.
Finally, we are at the desk. My passport, boarding pass and backpack are at the ready (unzipped) expecting a quick pass through. The Latam lady officer quickly scurries through my backpack, pulls stuff out roughly and then spies my Katmandu see-through water bottle with about 10mls of water in at the bottom. I thing she was going to confiscate it as she could not tip the water anywhere. I grabbed it and drank the entire 10ml dry (say two teaspoons). She then allowed me to board. Hard not to vent my frustration as to the crap experienced. Scott, seeing what transpired drank his 30mls and was at the ready. We both boarded the plane, and again, present our passports and boarding passes for further scrutiny. Arrghh!!! What a send-off after spending 5 weeks in South America. From memory, I believe it took another 20mins for everyone to gain their seating and then another 15mins after that to start taxiing out.
This flight will be a major test. It will be my longest flight to date (my 2016 USA connection flight was 10hrs and our Auckland to Santiago was also 10hrs) and Scott is dreading these upcoming 14hrs. The flight path brings us just over the southern tip of the Sth Island of New Zealand so that is a lot of water to cover. Scott & I struggled to sleep so we both completed 3 movies each by the time we reached Melbourne. The movie that really stood out of the 3 watched was “Bad Times at El Royale”. What a movie of twists set in past years. The cast were fantastic and Chris Hemsworth was mind blowing even though it was a small part he played. Highly recommend for viewing.
Another movie that played loonies with my mind in another way was “Robin Hood” a 2018 movie. It was too contemporary and so bewildering and a movie not to watch. I like the traditional Robin Hood stories far better.
Arriving in Melbourne at 7.30 am local time we had an extensive delay getting through Immigration and Customs with travellers not having documents ready or custom cards filled in and stuff in bags avoiding declarations. You can see why the Customs staff are non-personality plus in dealing with the volume of travellers. I think our Customs officer was relieved he had 2 organised Aussies in compliance.
After 2 phone calls I managed to get in contact with Con-X-ion to alter my Brisbane pickup so all is good with the world again. We venture to the domestic terminal end of the airport (Melbourne has combined terminals in the one massive building whereas Brisbane has 2 separate terminals connected by transit bus or the elevated airport train which can also take you into the city for Gold Coast/South or Sunshine Coast/ North) and with a reasonable break we alight the connection plane to Brisbane. Melbourne does not have the latest scanning technology and it is a bit cumbersome whereas Brisbane does, so the inconvenience and scanning time is more than halved of Melbourne. Brisbane is about to open its 2nd runway so I have no information yet on how that will change things, apart from extended air taxi times to the terminal buildings.
Arrived in Brisbane and both Scott & I are still wide awake and no jet lag so far. We searched the outside terminal after picking up our main backpacks for the Con-x-ion bus for home (towards the Gold Coast) but with no luck. Another phone call has us going 180° and up a set of stairs and then down a set to a split roadway. We are now set for the next Con-x-ion bus, apparently. Within the hour we are sitting down into my loungeroom speaking to my brother and chilling out. Scott & I were still on a high but my brother is never one for being involved in travel talk (can’t figure that out) so the conversation is limited. Scott’s friend, Sam is finishing his night work duty, and he’s on the way to pick Scott up for his home further down the Gold Coast. My brother is off to spend the night with friends some 20minutes away so I get slightly unpacked, showered and head down to Broadbeach using his work van (I sold my car the day before I left for Sth America) to meet up with Scott and his friends again for coffee and to meet & greet. Everyone was excited to see us and talk about our travels .. such a blast!!! Home again, beyond midnight and a timely crashed sleep. No jet lag though … Go Figure??
Post Blog: Coming home the world changes;
Ecuador/ Quito – Very violent protests against the Government and centralised in the same street we stayed in. Contacted the Hump Day Hostel and wished them safety, etc and they responded with concern but crossed their fingers on their safety and knew things would soon subside. They welcomed my contact and wished me well. Such kind thoughts in times of stress.
Santiago Chile – Very violent protests against the Government and was centralised about a 1klm from where we stayed. Protests kept escalating for many weeks until the Government relinquished their tough proposed legislation.
Valparaiso Chile – Massive bushfires in the neighbourhood hills surrounding the lower CBD area. Thousands of people now without homes. Total devastation to a once very colourful and pretty skyline.
New Zealand – A Massive volcano eruption on White Island, located off the North Island of New Zealand where 17 people have now been confirmed deceased with several still in hospital with extreme burns. The people were from a cruise liner out of Australia so most of the deaths were Australians. Very brave rescues were undertaken to bring them back and recover the bodies, however 2 remain missing. I had several emotions to this disaster as my eldest son & I just came back from venturing onto 2 active volcanoes in Ecuador (Cotopaxi & Quilotoa).
Australia – Well into Spring and now Summer has hit. We are in the most severe drought in recorded history and our annual bushfire season has started in a big way and early. The Left Wing politicians and Greenies and the ill-informed have blamed it on Climate Change but this is a financial scam set by the UN and Al Gore corruption. Climate does change but history tells us it comes in cycles and not some CO2 bullshit and rising seas.
The catastrophic fires are due to our Greenies tree hugging policy makers and our 3 levels of inept Governments that cowered to their stringent land management policies where our National Parks were extended, closed off to our farmer’s cattle, campers, public, tree logging, and even our Fire Services for well over a decade that increased the fuel load of bark, leaves, branches and fallen trees. Even farmers were criminalised if they fell a tree or cleared land on their own property. Ludicrous.
When the fires started our fire crews could not drive into these areas as their old access roads were now blocked with fallen trees, etc due to no maintenance management in our forests. In some places the fuel load was so high you couldn’t see over it. Obviously, this created such fuel and fires with enormous power. To date, over a thousand homes destroyed, about 8 deaths, a $3 Billion insurance bill, a million or so wildlife killed including thousands of defenceless koalas. For almost 30, 000 years our indigenous aborigines conducted hazard reduction burns to enable passage through forests and to uncover animal food and this prevented such large fires by reducing the fuel load. These devastating fires have NOTHING to do with CLIMATE CHANGE, GLOBAL WARMING or any of that nonsense.
THE NSW Govt purchased a huge fire-retardant airliner but of course we need more as this plane was even sent to Western Australia for a few days to combat fires there. The Federal Govt finally agreed to use the Defence Forces to assist but several weeks late. We even had to use the Navy to carry out one of our largest evacuations of the public in Victoria when the public was forced to the sea to escape. Our firies mainly consist of trained volunteers and they have been on the go for almost 2.5 months now without much respite. They are our TRUE heroes. The Govt has now agreed to set up a payment plan for the firies for their lost income and family struggles which has never been done previously, such is the scale of these fires. This tragedy has been escalated now that over 100 imbeciles have now been caught lighting fires over these months (quite a few children involved). These arsonists are yet to appear in court.
Some months ago, there was outrage from the world for the hazard burning by locals for the Amazon Jungle. This pails into insignificance when Australia has lost probably 50 times or more forest than the Amazon was burnt.
Many thanks for reading my travel blogs … really appreciate it and look forward to any comments that may arise. Had a few requests for my Cambodia and Vietnam travels last year (4.5 months of it). See what happens. Cheers.