I travelled the main locations extensively last year and I thought I would post one of my blogs I did outlining a wonderful paradise that is fast losing its paradise status. I have wonderful memories, mainly of my challenges & the absolutely fantastic people of different countries I met there including the beautiful Cambodian people. The following blog is what I experienced then. My opinion of the Chinese has not changed & I am not a racist .. however, one could say I’m severely challenged on this.

Sihanoukville was the place founded by the Cambodian King for his holiday seaside retreat and later by Prince Sihanouk. Over the years the French started with major buildings and then the Russians came with their infrastructure and over some considerable time Sihanoukville became a leisurely paradise for all to enjoy.

It became a backpacker’s paradise on a more respectful level than what is experienced in say Bali. Everyone accepted and bonded together doing what is normally done at a seaside. There was good, cheap accommodation, hotels with bars, pool tables and live music. Transport was on foot and with scooters & tut tuts mostly. Cars and trucks were around but in small numbers to the other transport available.

The activities ranged from swimming, snorkelling, diving, fishing and all these in any place one could find. There were so many options and at night some hotels came together for the friendly pub crawl run which kept all players contributing equally and supporting each facility. There was the creation of Pub Street which mirrored on a lesser scale to that at Siem Reap. Night markets evolved along the beach front at Serendipity Beach. This location also catered for the slow boats to take those wanting an island experience to mainly Koh Rong and Koh Rong Soloem. There are scores of other islands which are totally secluded for the more adventurous types and speaking of which an Englishman has set up an amazing diving, snorkelling, fishing, hiking, jungle type trekking and custom adventure activities called Adventure Adam on Koh Rong Soloem. Highly experienced and recommended.

Adventure Adam www.adventureadam.org Koh Touich village 1, Koh Rong 18000 · +855 10 354 002

As the word spread throughout the world the tourists started coming in many forms and everyone accepted the constant ease of growth both financially, infrastructure, redevelopment and such.

Today in 2018 and for the last few years there has been an escalation beyond any understanding in regards to demolition, renovation and building on a major scale. I personally call it an invasion.

Big money has come into Cambodia from the Chinese for the national highway upgrade and the rail line to eventually connect into Thailand from Phnom Pehn. That is well and good but to see what is happening in Sihanoukville leaves me speechless. I am not a racist, far from it, but to see the constant mayhem happening each day is beyond comprehension.

To put it roughly, over the past decade there was a steady escalation towards the construction and operation of casinos to reach approx. 40 casinos of small to medium construction size. In 2018 there are currently approx. 32 casinos (large scale) under construction 7 days a week. Some of these are so large you can see them from the islands. There are approx. another 15 casinos yet to be started so in total there will be approx. 87 casinos in operation in a population of around 1 million people regionally. A significant number of these construction sites are now located from Victory Beach down to Independence Beach and near Ochheuteal Beach which is a large seashore run. When these large developments are in operation they will secure that section of beach therefore restricting non-tenants/ occupiers from accessing the “public” beach. The construction sites show very little safety towards street users and pedestrians let alone workplace safety.

Otres Beach a 10minute walk from Serendipity Beach (Main Ferry terminal) remains virtually intact and provides a welcome relief from the main city centre however this area won’t be too far away from future development.

I wanted to stay longer and use Sihanoukville as a base however I could not stand the ongoing mayhem. My hotel was disturbed by constant power losses and one day next door behind us was demolished and excavation started with jackhammers and excavators and pile drivers, etc from 6.30am each day. I soon found out the hotel owners have now sold their location to a Chinese developer. Almost every shop & hotel facility now has a standby generator so you can imagine the noise levels when they are all switched on (most of these are on the ‘footpath’ or shop front area).

Back to the activities and night life where now there are basically just a few places for live bands, with The Big Easy at Serendipity Beach, as the main one. Several like minded facilities have now been bulldozed and only one comes to mind for a renovation which is opposite to the Big Easy. The night market spot next to the Main Ferry terminal has been bulldozed for over a year now with no construction yet underway so it is left as a waste land with rubbish strewn over it. This land is approx. 300m (prime beach front) x 60m.

Slowly & methodically the Cambodians are being squeezed out … they are enjoying the quick cash at the moment but that may soon subside once the Chinese/ Casinos cement their operational requirements. There seems to be no long-term plan for the local people and their community and very little infrastructure unless directly tied to a particular casino.

While there is the convenience of an international airport and now a 3-times per week passenger train (7 hours for $8/ ticket linking Kampot & Phnom Pehn) and travellers wishing to enjoy what is left of the previous lay back Cambodia experience one must consider only staying at Otres Beach 1 & 2 and look at staying the extended time on the two main islands listed above as the main areas of less disturbance.

A large number of ex-pats owning businesses have and are now considering relocation to the nearby township of Kampot to keep within the region. Unfortunately, the location is inland and the beach is an awkward trip but it is expected an improved road system will be open to the beachside to keep with the tourism demand.

With the Cambodian Government elections in late July this year (2018) there appears to be less certainties as to what will be on offer in regards to future Visas and any non-Chinese operations and activities. A traveller will need to keep abreast to the up to the minute notifications as things could change with little warning. There is a strong feeling the Cambodia Government has sold its soul in dealing with the escalation of the Chinese investments and ownership, albeit on 99year lease agreements.

Within a short period of time much of the accommodation in Sihanoukville will be priced above the traveller’s market so it is best to seek out Otres Beaches first and then plan your island getaway.

For Sihanoukville I believe it is best if you stay away from the Casinos and stick to good hotels particularly in the Otres Beach area. If you are lucky Adam may still be at The Big Easy & he will be most helpful. Haha .. he might even still remember me. I did an interview on him as well.

Hope you enjoyed part of my journey? Appreciate any feedback. Inserting photos & texts is not that simple I’ve found so I am happy with my own feedback on this issue 🙂