Summary of My International Travel 2018 – Part 7

Koh Rong Sanloem Island Tripping – Cambodia

Now that I’ve survived my back to basics Koh Rong island experience, I started on the ferry hopping system from Sok San Beach to Koh Toch Beach (both on Koh Rong) to the main terminal at Saracen Bay on Koh Rong Sanloem (Eastern Side) then onto my next village of M’ Pai Bay (Central North of the island) which is basically a good stones’ throw South over the waves from my original departure at Koh Toch Beach.  The two main islands off Sihanoukville are Koh Rong (North Island – less developed) & Koh Rong Sanloem (South Island – more developed). You will need to refer to previous blogs to catchup on my Koh Rong stays.

With a quick stopover at Saracen Bay the ferry headed North and then West to round the North Eastern headland and gently easing into a beautiful ‘U’ shaped bay between an isolated cone-shaped island to a central pier at M’Pai Bay which M’Pai means #23 pier in Cambodian language. The ferry ride was a pleasant 20mins and when alighting we were greeted by the ‘Pier Captain’ issuing a boisterous humour filled greeting (much like a pirate) from an Ex-British compatriot with his still cockney accent …….. who quickly asked me where I am staying and he directed me to go to the end of the pier & “fall over … there you will find your hotel right in front.” Loved this encounter and he was so right in his direction … even though I chose not to fall over. First building you see is Bong’s.

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I had apprehension on my hotel after my last ‘resort’, plus their name for this hotel is Bong’s Guesthouse (Drug related) however I was warmly greeted with a European receptionist/ bar maid, etc. Everything went well with check-in and she showed me to my first-floor room with ensuite. It was so refreshing and comfortable apart from the island’s normal of cold showers only. For the remainder of the day I just scoured the front beach area and perused the other hotels, bars, cafés, etc admiring the little bay of beautiful blue bay waters and tiny shallow waves. It was a bit annoying to have so many dogs roam this business area and beach front. I was told these dogs (numerous packs) are not owned by anyone, they just roam free and breed.

I noticed the Pier Captain also manages an establishment (Mango Bar), a bar and cafe along some 3 shops from my Bong’s Hotel with his young wife and gorgeous young vibrant 2year old girl. Out the front are huge sitting cane chairs (soft cushions) imbedded into the soft white sand and hanging cane sitting baskets from a well shaded tree to waste your day in this paradise. The 2yr old child was so friendly and confident with the customers and loves the smoothies. Mum has troubles reigning her in at times.

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Wandering the beaches of sands, then rocks, then boulders you cannot help but unwind and chill out. Talk about a lazy experience. So many swings to try out along the water’s edge and into the ‘jungle’. Not far from Bong’s along the main street beach (sand area) you enter a very narrow foot trail between the trees and then amazingly another hostel opens up .. it really is secluded. I later found out this hostel has some wild parties and that’s where most of the young travellers stay at. There have been occasions where drug overdoses have eventuated and this is not the place to have any medical issue. The emergency response could take almost half a day. Walking up the primary street to the hilltop behind the pier I noticed a volunteer hospital being constructed. It will be basic in operation but what a wonderful thing to see for this village; and well overdue. There are other places under renovation also and some of these are bars and night spots and undertaken by lessees of young travellers wishing to base themselves in this secluded paradise. They are doing good work and some have a real attention to their new client base and keeping within the thoughts of the village.

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All goods for M’Pai Bay including all construction materials come via boat of course and the only operational pier cannot be accessed every time for all boats. Therefore, boats of all sizes come in shore as far as possible to the expected low-tide zone however, the photo shows the channel and 2 sand banks to encounter. Lots of boats come at very odd hours so it remains all hands-on deck. From there, manual workers wade out into the water and shoulder carry the ‘easy’ items and sometimes small float/ barges are used to get the materials closer to the shoreline. The goods are then double handled onto a trailer towed by the fantastic ‘Chinese Cow’ (miniature motorised 2-wheeled tractor) from the water’s edge to then deliver where the goods are required. Watching these tireless workers there is a strong feeling of empathy and guilt while I’m enjoying my $1USD cold beer. Somehow into the future and when the economy lifts, no doubt there will be a better pier and one fitted with a base crane for unloading and loading .. but we are talking well into the future to what I can currently see.

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At dusk my beer turns into 2 and I find the next table beside me is a couple from Sydney Australia. Had to notice their Aussie accents. Donna & Hughie are continuous travellers. Donna, slightly younger than me is originally a Lennox Head’s girl not far from my hometown in Northern New South Wales in Australia. We all immediately click and spend more time together and do small walks. Donna is trying to recover from a gash on her knee, so walking is a chore and soldiers on even though I had the perfect medicine in my first aid kit she was reluctant to use. Hugh is older than me and is a champion beer taster with a very dry Aussie humour. Lots to talk about with these two and they will return in some of my future blogs in the most surprising ways.

Sleep comes so easy in island places like this but sleep time seems so fast once the dogs start barking at the crack of dawn; along with the roosters (some have them in cages for cock fighting tournaments). This island place is pure heaven compared to the construction and demolition pit nightmare in nearby Sihanoukville. This paradise improves your wellbeing by much cleaner air and sea smells that have since left the city of massive redevelopment. After a sumptuous fruit, egg & toast & coffee brekky I decided to walk East along the shoreline seeing all kinds of trees, vines, colourful prayer houses (like stand-alone letterboxes at home), swings and taking in all that surrounds me; and then out of the blue; a man aged about late 50s walking at pace along the water’s edge with a cowboy hat on … and NOTHING else!! .. completely starkers and in full suntan all over, so he’s a regular nudist I suspect!!! He seemed so comfortable in his birthday suit while I was very uncomfortable .. It would be a few minutes more around the bend where some bathing female tourists will soon get an eye full. I respected his privacy & didn’t take a photo .. but he respected no-one else’s.

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Coming out of the ‘jungle’ along the beach I saw more people sunbathing, chilling out in hammocks suspended above the bay waters and note the absolute serenity. It was time to sit and contemplate with ‘clear mind’ .. not up to actual meditation standard but I was at some peace of mind. I enjoy looking back over to the main pier through the bay waters and the island opposite within the bay full of trees and with no inhabitants. This is where they do major snorkelling and diving, however I plan to do some trials on snorkelling first straight after lunch before taking to a professional snorkel & diving tour. A little West of the main pier is a short and old timber pier with a concrete topping and this was the perfect place to chill out and enjoy the clear water below and to test out my snorkelling challenge.

Having lunch back at Bong’s I soon realise I have to shave quite well in order to snorkel accordingly .. I detest shaving (for decades I had to shave 6 days a week), but alas, it is a must do for snorkelling. Fully set up now with my boardies and rashie and brand-new snorkel kit I wade out west of the main pier, noticing the water is extra warm for a long way out beyond the sand channels towards the old pier before it gets sufficiently deeper and cooler. It’s a balmy 39°C too. Remembering my brief Google training, I must remain calm (in breathing) and submerge, and much to my surprise I am doing rather well. There is little to see in this open bay sand floor however, a small fish here and there, but it was more the point of mastering my breathing and calmness and head towards success. I couldn’t believe how blue, yet crystal clear the water was. I did this for about 20 minutes and only noticing my location to the bay. My last surfacing was full of embarrassment as I did not see anyone near me and I came up between two gorgeous blonde girls from Norway in their early twenties. Certainly, got a fright! A ‘welcoming’ one though.

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They were both school teachers and were on a rushed 2week school holiday and were not worried about my snorkeling in the depths, as they decided to wade near me; not me invading their space. Honestly, I did not see them while underwater. We talked in English for more than 40minutes in chin height water, I believe, on every subject. They were catching the ferry the next morning so I was unable to catchup with them again. Really missed their company and friendliness. One of the ladies name was Cili .. (pronounced Silly … so that was a surprise).

I wanted to do the real snorkelling with a boat tour provider the next day but unfortunately all operators were closed for the day. Alas, I remain village bound but still I have time to explore the small village more by traversing to the main hill behind the growing village and to catch the afternoon ferry to Saracen Bay for my next resort stay. The hill shows itself to be growing with numerous small houses, an extension underway to the school, the volunteer hospital, more night bars & cafes & more new larger housing, all without destroying the nature & culture of the village. The people & new residing foreigners all showed great friendship with glowing smiles and hand waving as I walked past.

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I was sad to return down the hillside and pack my backpacks for the ferry. It has been a quiet, yet rewarding experience to just wander aimlessly and negate any timetable for a few precious days. I’m early for the ferry and gain the prime area for waiting; even though the pier is always crowded with gear and produce, nets, etc. A few minutes before the ferry arrives a beautiful young petite French woman appears with her 5yr old son. She is carrying a huge backpack, much larger than mine, no doubt packing for two people. Her English was OK for me to understand her. I could tell she was struggling and obviously doing it tough and looking for respite. They had walked most of the day through the jungle to get to this pier for the ferry. She jokingly said her son doesn’t carry anything and he prefers to be carried but knows that would be impossible. “He walks slow as well”. The woman is to meet her sister, working at Saracen Bay where I am heading before she heads to Sihanoukville the next day. She is really looking forward to seeing her sister and taking a well-earned respite in her lodgings. Sadly, I cannot remember her name for this blog. She had great communication and I would like to spend more time with her and talk about her life and travels.

The ferry pulls in and passengers board showing their tickets. I’m seated and look back to see the French lady continuing in a heavy discussion with the Pier Captain. Apparently, he is enforcing the min notice of 24hrs to board a ferry even though she has a ticket. Reluctantly, she smiles to everyone and waves good-bye with us all knowing there is nothing we can do.

It was a sad trip back to Saracen Bay, looking back at M’Pai Bay and the distant pier with the French lady and her young son stuck there; and when finally alighting at Saracen Bay there is no English assistance on the pier, so we are all no wiser as to where each of our resorts are. Pure frustration.

I’ll leave this blog here, so stay tuned for more island living and then onto Sihanoukville. I’m coming up to my Vietnam travels that totally blew my mind and created life-long memories.

Thank you again for reading my blogs and I trust you will stay safe, happy & healthy, specially through this COVID-19 pandemic. I always look forward to seeing the feedback so don’t be afraid to comment.